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#16819 12/10/2002 5:07 PM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 962
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 962
Couple of torque tube prop shaft/ rear axle questions-

How tight is the oil seal on the back of the U-joint bell supposed to be? I tightened it once with a pipe wrench, but it backed off. So I tightened it more this time.

Is there any "offset" in the Ujoint bell? What I mean is does turning the bell cw or ccw adjust the position of the torque tube in relation to the back of the transmission? Don't want to bind up the new Okie bushing and new Ujoint.

I replaced the old Ujoint with a NOS unit I found on EBAY. Its got needle bearings on all 4 corners. Anybody seen one?

Is a slight bit of driveline vibration normal? Everything from axles, bearings, R&P, oakie bushing, Ujoint, etc is either new, NOS, or good used parts.

thanks
chip


Preaching the Hot Rod Gospel according to the 4-stroke apostles:

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#16820 12/10/2002 5:27 PM
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 481
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 481
Did the original equipment u-joint have bushings or needle bearings?

#16821 12/10/2002 5:42 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
Shop manual gives instructions for installing the ball. For and aft adjustment is shimmed with multiple gaskets and needs to be set before the shaft is installed in the housing. You shouldn't be able to feel any drivesline vibration, if you do it will only get worse. eek


Fred
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#16822 12/10/2002 6:05 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
I am fairly certain that the original u-joints for enclosed driveshafts had bushings (in 1/2 ton trucks with 3-speed, 4-speed, and HydraMatic transmissions).

Is the NOS (New Old Stock) u-joint a GM part?

Tim

#16823 12/10/2002 7:01 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 206
S
Member
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S Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 206
Use some RTV sealant on the coupling, it will help prevent leaks and will keep the collar from loosening. There should be no offset in the ball joint.

I've used the needle bearing U-joints, they are probably a service replacemnt part - they work fine as long as they have the proper lube level in the bell.

Put the truck on jackstands and run it up through the gears to the same RPM where you feel the vibration. Observe the front part of the driveline. If you can detect any flex or whip in the coupling area, that's where the vibes are coming from. I made a "splint" from angle iron and muffler clamps to stabilize this area, worked for a while, then got loose & fell off. At this point, I said enough is enough and dumped the whole POS for an open driveline. End of problems.


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