The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Heat and sound insultation?

I'm curious on which way to go to eliminate much of the heat and some of the sound in my 46 Chevy?

Any suggestions on what to use as well as whom to buy the material from?

Dan Mascheck

I am probably going create a big stink with my suggestion.

I suggest you go to your local hardware store and consider using the insulating pads used for hot water tanks.

Good idea that and wish I had thought of it before I bought the Heat & Sound Insulation kit along with the EVA Sound Deadener and Heat Seal kit from lmc.

I've also heard of people using Peel & Seal from Lowes as an insulator.

Seems a bit strange to use a hot water pad for sound and heat insulation. What about Fat Mat or Dynamat? Plus how easy is it going to be to cut and fit a heater pad? I need to go look at one!

Dan

This stuff works great.

Peel-N-Seal

There is lots of dialog about this and other products for heat/sound deadening. I have used it on several of my projects with great results.

Good luck with your project.

Tony

I used Reflectex from Home Depot or Lowes and glued it in place. There has been some debate over what type glue to use. I used a 3M spray product although it may have been incorrect. It stuck well and seems to hold but time will tell. Good luck!! Pics below
Dan
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2088446600071274430TOSzam

I also plan to use self stick wind and water or ice barrier in the door panels as it tends to take out the tinny sound when you close the door. It is a product used by roofers and can be bought at your box store.
Dan

i got a kit from Summitt , SUM-879010 it is basically there version of Dynamat at a considerably lower cost ..there was enough in the kit to do the floor and most of the firewall for 49.95 ...2 kits would do the floor , firewall , doors & under the seat ..

Thanks I may call Summit tomorrow!!

Glad I could help !

OOOH Dan ,
DONT THROW AWAY any small scraps as you cut an fit ...you will find that later on you can use them too fill a void here or there i just kept a sheet of the facing paper you will remove as you start installin this product an stuck all the little pcs back on it so they wouldnt get contaminated with dirt etc ....an used almost every square inch ...to cover ...especially the firewall ..just a install Tip

I used a fibreglass faced carpet pad from Menards and contact cement. Looks good where exposed and works well

Thanks for th eadvice to all!

46Dan, go to the search button above and put in "sound deadeners" -- there's some great info about it all that's been discussed in the past. Basically, the Peel 'n Seal roofing material available at the big box home improvement stores works great... on your floors, strips in your doors, etc. After you lay that down go to a carpet store and buy jute padding. Use a 3M 77 adhesive. End result is a much quieter ride.

One tip: Leave yourself access to things like brake fluid resevoirs, batteries and transmission floor plates that are part of the floor. I recently had to replace my clutch and had to remove the tranny floor plan - which was under all of my sound dedening work - #@%!

One other thing: Before you carpet, lay down extra wires to the rear of your cab for the future... like speakers, etc.

Good luck!

I haven't gotten to that point on my truck yet, but when I am ready to start putting in carpet, etc. I plan to use half inch sound board wherever feasible. The stuff comes in a 4x8 foot sheet for around 6 bux at the local lumber yard and works great. It is basically the same material they use for acoustic ceiling tiles, but is a little more flexible (especially if you dampen it a little) It is a bit crumbly to work with but on projects where I have used it before I just spray painted it when I was done to bind the surface and that seemed to work fine.
My 3 cents (inflation, ya know?)
David

Thanks for the idea, but I wonder how durable that will be on the floor over time with feet moving on it?

Another thing I never plan on doing is adding carpet. My truck looks great, but is made for driving. I drive it quite a bit weekly and don't get anal about a scratch or ding! No trailer queen for me! I plan on some form of rubber matting!

Dan Mascheck
Wharton, TX

dynamat, hushmat,noize control, all work pretty well. Especially on floors...they won't rot out again. Also lizard skin spray on works well, it can get into lots of places. Line x bedliner works great, will seal pinholes in the floor, makes for a ridgid panel that will never rot. spray on top and bottom of floor to get max. protection. the silver lined sound deadening pad they sell at the car shows works very well also. For a cheaper alternative, use 8 lb carpet pad. I used this in my truck along with hushmat, wow, what a difference. I just finished building a 50 where I used 2 bulk packs + of dynamat, the silver padding stuff on EVERY surface inside and it sounds about like the customer's mercedes.

I sold an old 74 VW bug to some kids that worked in a polymer shop. The floor pan was rusted through in front of the battery and they just put plastic over it, and poured in about an inch of old polymer and let it set up. It worked so well, they used it throughout the car, not just for repairs, but also for sound insulation. It was some old material they had a drum full of in the shop that was contaminated so they couldn't use it for anything else. But I thought it was a great idea.

Dan,

I hear ya' about your truck being a daily driver. Mine's on the road year-round - even in our New England snows! The sound deadening has helped a lot. And carpeting isn't just for trailer queens! I just makes for a nicer ride all around and makes your ccokpit much more comfortable. If you choose to not install carpet, the suggestion about spraying on the bedliner may help. Otherwise using all of the other products probably won't work for you.

Check out my interior via the link below... good luck!

i agree w/ dan, use Fat Mat or Dynamat along w/ a two sided insulation material, then carpet,even under the seat. W/ the dynamat (which I use) you only need to cover a portion of the body panel to deaden the ''tin'' sound. then cover that inside panel w/ a full covering of double sided foil insulation.
After I cut mine I used furnace tape all around the edges and 3M spray glue if needed on verticle areas. here is a photo of what i speek of. i bought mine at a good flaps rod shop.

dynamat is pricy but it does NOT EMIT a film in your cab !!!!! that the cheaper sticky back siding/roofing stuff does

http://www.autostyles.com/insulato.htm
here is a way to gain more valuable room and storage under the seat
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=DSC00492_0008.jpg
I have also used two rubber pieces one above and the other below the wooden blocks in the bed.
:confused: the peel and seal stuff when it gets very hot emits a film on the windows per the manufacture.

I tried the autostyles link and it will come up, but when you try to find out the prices it won't connect online. The product looks interesting! I'll try to call them on their tech line! Does it have an adhesive backing?

I have a 1946 Chevy truck with the gas tank under the seat, while the storage would be nice, I plan, for now, keeping the tank under the seat!

How and where did you mount your tank?

Dan Mascheck
Wharton, TX

The dynamat, at $33-39 per linear yard is pretty pricy. Go to Home Depot, Lowes or a big box home center and go to the roofing department for Peel n' Seal (may be another name)... it goes for like $20 for 12 feet. Much cheaper and very effective. use it just like the other stuff. Others have said that even in Texas heat it works fine.

Dan, for storage, add pockets on the front edge of your seat....

Is the stuff from Lowes or Home Depot as good as Dynomat?! I don't mind saving a buck, but considering the truck has so little space to inulate compared to my Chevelle, I would prefer to go with as good as I can get! If the products are virtually the same, other than paying for a fancy name, I agree!

I'm planning on using Lizardskin on my Chevelle, and have the product bought. It is pricey, but I wanted to try it and compare it to the Dynomat! I'm wondering if anyone has used Lizard Skin??

It does get hot down hear and we are 50 miles SW of Houston, so the humidity is a killer and I do have AC in the truck, but need to knock out some of the engine heat and reducing the road noise would make it more pleasant for my two year old Grandson and I to enjoy our rides together!

Thanks!
Dan Mascheck
Wharton, TX

.
would you consider some nicely positioned levers in the hood ??

inside cab, under hood and door sheet metal sound deadening is another consideration. Download PDF
(220k), not just the floor and fire wall
a couple strips of dynamat there also.
http://www.dynamat.com/products_architectural_dynamat_xtreme.html

an employee of the local auto sound shop did his whole floor (and trunk) w/ dynamat and says he loves the no noise ride
HELL i would to if i could.......

heat temp max 300 degrees:::: the factory specs below
EASTWOOD has it 10% off now.

Appearance:
Black butyl core with 4 mil aluminum constraining
layer, self adhesive with release liner
Thickness:
0.067” (1.7mm)
Temperature Range (Optimal Performance):
14 oF to +140 oF (-10 oC to +60 oC)
Temperature Range (Resistance):
-65 oF to +300 oF (-54 oC to +149 oC)
Adhesive Peel Strength:
42.6 lb./in. (74.8 N/cm) on cold steel
Chemical Resistance:
Resistant to water and mineral oils
Specifications
Mass:
0.45lbs./ft.2 (2.20kg/m2)
Acoustic Loss Factor @ Temperature
(Using ASTM method E756 @ 200 Hz):
0.081 @ +14?F (-10?C)
0.240 @ +32?F (+0?C)
0.257 @ +50?F (+10?C)
0.417 @ +68?F (+20?C)
0.259 @ +86?F (+30?C)
0.194 @ +104?F (+40?C)
0.140 @ +122?F (+50?C)
0.094 @ +140?F (+60?C)

Thanks for the all the info. I have done business with Eastwood, I have a new catalog at the office I will look at late this morning! thanks for the great ideas!!

Dan Mascheck
Wharton, TX

Thanks for all the info That was going to be my next task but I read all the replys for Dan and now I know what im going for

Thanks

This looks like a great idea. I assume you simply place it in an even fashion on floor just prior to carpet install?

I'm curious with all the different brands of insullation, what is best. I hear about Dynamat, Fatmat and several other as well as using insulation from home Depot. There has to be a clearer answer. I'm not on a budget and just want to do what's best.

I will not put carpet in my truck, because I do drive it and don't want the hassle. I want to use some kind of rubberized mat. Any suggestions?

Dan

Look at SecondSkinAudio. Not cheap but highly used in Vintage cars, etc.

I'll check them out! I have bought some Lizard Skin to use on my Chevelle, where did you find out about this one Craig?

I just laid down peel & seal. WOW! Super clean & easy install. Cost $40.00. Huge savings.

Thanks for pointing me in that direction!

How is the Peel & Seal working? Which version did you use?

Dan

I used peel and stick from lowes inside the doors and used the foil and bubble wrap insulation material everywhere else. Really did a nice job of deadening sound.
mike

I used it also. It really helps.

Larry Bear...Lay down extra wires for future use!!!!Before covering with carpet..Nice yankee engineering....would have never thought of that.You chowds have your S...Together.