The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Window regulator problem - need some help

Hi all, I took out the door glass and vent window to replace the vent window rubber. It came out okay after some tugging and cussing. After replacing the vent window rubber I reinstalled everything. Now the door glass is cocked, it's about a half inch lower in the rear. When I try to crank it up the last inch or so is real hard. Also, when cranking down, the window will free fall over an inch then stops. None of this was happening before I took it out and it worked perfectly. I'm about at my wit's end here trying to figure this thing out. Why would the glass be lower at the back? Have I screwed up the regulator? What the @#$% is going on? Thanks for any help, Don

I don't know if this is it but check the channel at the base of the window... as I recall there are two "rods" that form an "x" as part of the regulator and they have rollers on the ends... make sure both rollers are properly in the channel at the base of the glass.

When I did the windows on my 56 I recall it being a pain in the butt to keep them in place while I was reinstalling. This may not be our problem but off the top of my head it's worth checking.

If this is an AD truck, you won't have an "x" type mechanism. The only way that the glass could possibly tip like that is either it is out of one of the tracks or one of the tracks is broken. I would guess that you know that the divider bar that is part of the vent assembly bolts on to the door, inside near the bottom.

Sorry, I should have said this is a TF (57). I have checked and the rollers are in the track. Everything SEEMS to be in order but obviously somethings wrong somewhere. Please keep sending ideas. Thanks, Don

don't really have an answer, but redid mine 59 and the drivers side was like that. Real tight but the passenger side was perfect. On the same subject does anyone have sugestion on good replacement for the felt fuzzies at the base of the window. Replaced mine and the chrome strip is below the bottom of the dooor frame.

Remember when you get your hands in those tight places to squirt some spray grease on the rollers and anything else that moves up/down.

Jim's right... and don't forget a good caoting of anti-seize!

And while you're at it add some soundproofing to the interior of the door!

may want too check the thickness of your stock glass too the new glass.

what kind of material do you use for soundproofing Larry?

Nolan

I used a roll roofing product I bought at a Home Depot. Short money. Comes in a 12" wide roll (if I remember correctly)... one side has an adhesive, just cut strips, peel off the backing, slide it down in place and press it on. Check out Alan Horvath's website for all sorts of tips on soundproofing the doors as well floor and cab. The roofing stuff really works well.

This is based on the 63 manual and working with my 66 GMC, but might also be a held with yours. The channels front and back are held in placeby several sheet metal screws on the top and front which anchor the entire wing windoe/front chan assmby and on the rear by AFIK 3 pairs of med sm machine screws. While the front is pretty much self aligning, the ones on the rear should all be left quite loose until you have them ALL in and have checked for straightness by looking down through the window opening with a flashlight. Have you removed the wing window asmby before the window lift or have you wrestled the lift out without removing the wing asmby? If you've been wresteling it's probable that the lift mechanism has gotten bent in the process.
Rotsa Ruck

Thanks Larry, I'll definitely remember that when I'm working on the cab.

Thanks to all for responding to my window problem. The fix was unbelieveably simple after I screwed my head on correctly. It was the lower channel that the roller goes into that was causing the problem. The roller was not fully on the track and it was binding up. Got it on right, lubed everything real well, and it's working great now. Thanks again, Don