The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Flywheel clutch question

Hi Guys,
I have a 53 3100 with a rebuilt 235 engine I installed 18 months ago. The shop I purchased the engine from said they always put a HD clutch in their engines. Did not think it was a big deal for the clutch but after I installed the engine and tried adjusting the clutch pedal freeplay I noted that the clutch would slip initially when trying to drive it. I adjusted the freeplay at least 100 times going just a small amount each time. I finally settled on a spot that it worked best but still slipped through the gears on the first attempt to drive it each time. After going through the gears and the truck warming up the truck seemed to run fine. I could even start out in second gear. I did notice on occasion that there seemed to be some minor slippage while driving at 50 plus mph. The initial slippage seemed to get worse as I used the truck. I only have about 400 miles on the engine and clutch at this point. I did not drive the truck much this summer because of this issue.
Yesterday I pulled the transmission and clutch out to replace it with a standard size clutch (9 1/8) My question is will I need to replace the flywheel or can I just have it resurfaced and reuse it? Also does anyone have a good trick for removing the flywheel with the truck on jack stands because this seems so much harder to do now than it did when I was 60?

Deegs

Check how many bolts hold that clutch pressure plate to the flywheel. A true heavy duty clutch uses 9 bolts versus 6 bolts for the standard 9-1/8 inch clutch used on on stovebolt engines. Replacement 10 or 11 inch (can't remember which one) clutches are extremely hard to find, so if you have a 9 bolt flywheel you'll either need to replace it with a 6-bolt one or get it drilled and tapped for 6 bolts (smaller bolt circle.)
But yes, unless the flywheel has real deep cracks in it, it can be resurfaced and reused.

BTW, EVERYTHING is harder than when we were 60.

Maybe find a youngster to help you.

[on edit] As you found out, adjusting the pedal linkage won't cure a slipping clutch. Yours was bad right out of the box.

Kevin,
Thanks for the info. The clutch I removed only had 6 bolts. The disc measured 11 inches. I did not notice additional holes in the flywheel beyond the six bolts I removed. Any suggestions on how to secure the flywheel to break the bolts loose; the two breaker bar attempt has been less than productive so far.

Deegs

Either grab the flywheel with vice grip pliers wedged against the bell housing. Or just use an impact wrench.

I used a socket on one of the other bolts attached to a breaker bar that rotated against the bell housing to stop rotation but the vice grip pethod should also work.

Thanks for the information. Tried using the breaker bar against the bellhousing but it kept sliding off on me. Need a third hand to hold it in place. Might try the impact wrench now. I need to get this out and either replace it or have it resurfaced. The clutch I ordered will not match up to this flywheel guess I should have waited until I had the old clutch out before ordering a new clutch. Kind of concerned about reusing the oversized set up since it did not work the 1st time around, but I guess you can get a bad clutch out of the box.


Deegs

So were the bolt holes on your old clutch with the 11 inch disk have the holes right on the edge of the flywheel? The larger 9 bolt heavy duty clutch pressure plate had a larger bolt circle than the standard 6-bolt clutch (10 or 11-inch vs the standard 9-1/2 inch disk.) So it sounds like your new clutch must be some other iteration than the two that Chevy used back in the day.

Is your flywheel flat all the way across (except for the center bolting area)? A flywheel with a raised rim where the pressure plate bolts on would explain why a pressure plate set up for a flat flywheel didn't work correctly, as the clamping force would be less with the disk recessed relative to the pressure plate mounting surface.

Once you get all the bolts out except that last bolt you have the breaker bar on, how do you get that last one loose?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...tvJk8foMQP4mXnZEo8Ujfe63UxjV4G8KXD3c6U_A Money well spent.

Kevin,
The bolt holes are around the edge of the flywheel. It is flat except for the small groove near the edge. I noted some gouges in the flywheel that were not on the clutch plate just an uneven wear pattern. I suspect the shop that built my engine did not resurface the flywheel they used. They did not use the one I sent them from my old engine. I attached some pics below.
Oh the impact wrench was the way to go. Not sure why I did not use it from the start, I was using my impact sockets with the breaker bars because they are 6 point and grip better.

Deegs

Looks like it was slipping the flywheel looks like it was getting a little warm from it slipping .You could sand the flywheel to see if there are any hard spot from heat then decide if you need to have it resurfaced.

Kevin, I was using the breaker bar method to break them loose so they stayed in place until the last one was broken free.

Sounds like he was able to use an impact which typically is the way to go, I was working in a remote space without access to my air compressor for my impact (I don't have one of the battery powered versions).

If you need a different flywheel check the "part for sale" section of this forum, although local would be preferable given the cost of shipping these days.

That flywheel has been glazed from the clutch slipping. That shop should be shot for reusing that without resurfacing. But maybe it didn't look so bad when they installed it and the pressure plate was just too weak.

I have on hand a used 9 bolt clutch and flywheel with 6-volt ring gear, but even if I gave it to you, the shipping cost wouldn't be affordable from Alaska. I was considering using it, but didn't want to take a chance on it. If I were to use it, I'd get it resurfaced, and it's in better shape than yours.

Looks like a couple of 11 inch flywheels there. I had to look around a lot to find mine and I've been really pleased with it. I'd pay to have one resurfaced professionally. Makes a big difference. Have them check the balance after they resurface it. Not normally an issue but nice to check it anyhow...especially if you need to shave off much metal.