The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop GMC 48 Pickup Rebuild

Hello All,

Allow me to move into the paint department with my GMC 48 rebuilding job to ask some general questions.

I am use to learning new things, doing it for 72 years and I am not tired of learning.

Several questions bug & bother me:

A) getting rust, old paint off is easiest done with blasting. The division comes on 'for what item' ? So, sandblasting with fine sand for the frame and powder coat that black? My son has it done for the frame of his 1986 Buick station wagon and he seems to be happy with it, but that was done by a sand blasting shop since our booth can't handle the full frame.

B) How about other pieces? We can powder coat up to 8' x4'x3' pieces, so would it make sense to powder coat as much as possible?

C) Can one powder coat all metal pieces or is there a true advantage by going with spray paint?

I have painted a lot over my years, but never car parts, cause they scare me, truly!

So, give me your help, please!

Joerg

What are you talking about specifically?

I used Rust-Oleum rattle cans on the frame and undercarriage of my Cadillac over 20 years ago. I use the vehicle as my primary transportation and is still looks like new.

I rattle canned the side cover, engine cover and draft tube on Ol' Roy's engine and the rest of my vehicles. It's durable and lasts a long time. If you can powder coat it, go for it but It's not necessary.

Thanks, Otto. I have 'rattle canned' a lot, but never considered it being a true paint job, 😁.

Whatabout fenders, hood, cab, doors inside & out? Rattle can it all? My trigger fingers might be done when I am done, then I am done!

Ya, I've never done that but know people who have. It can give a decent result but I wouldn't do it on a restoration project.

Regardless of paint and method used, the single most important factor in achieving beautiful, lasting finish is the preparation. That goes for auto parts, bodywork, houses, furniture, etc.

I painted my house and the finish was smooth as glass and no peeling or flaking after 11 years. I spent a lot of time grinding the 90 years of paint off of it down to the bare wood. Sanded, prepped, cleaned, etc before a single coat of oil based primer went on. Then let that dry for a week before 2 coats of acrylic latex went on. I applied it with a brush, not a paint sprayer.

My point is that you can achieve perfection with whatever method you choose, just make sure the bodywork is perfectly straight, perfectly smooth, and hermetically clean before applying the primer and finish.