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Joined: Aug 2022
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Can you change a stock 1946 1/2 ton enclosed drive center chunk / pumpkin with a 1955 1st series differential chunk / pumpkin…..and use the open drive shaft? I thought I had read that some where. Using the original 1946 axle / differential housing?

Last edited by Gdads51; 09/16/2026 1:17 PM. Reason: add detail to title

Care taker of a 1946 1/2 ton. Pretty much period correct original. Danny T, from B’ham, Al
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'Bolter
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Yes. I'm using one from a 57 in a 40. Good up through 62? if memory serves me.

Last edited by Donf; 06/15/2024 3:13 PM.
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Donf
Yes. I'm using one from a 57 in a 40. Good up through 62? if memory serves me.

So you’re using just the ‘57 pumpkin and drive shaft, and retaining the original differential housing and axles, is that correct……to eliminate the torque tube. Correct??


Care taker of a 1946 1/2 ton. Pretty much period correct original. Danny T, from B’ham, Al
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,117
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,117
If you put an open driveline on a torque tube axle housing, you need to do something to eliminate the pivot mounts on the axle housing. Either cut them off and weld on spring pads, paying attention to driveline angles, or set the driveline angle and weld the pivots solid, which might be a little messy when the rubber in it starts melting. With the torque tube gone, you need something to resist the torque (springs or so-called traction bars.)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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'Bolter
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"So you’re using just the ‘57 pumpkin and drive shaft, and retaining the original differential housing and axles, is that correct……to eliminate the torque tube. Correct??"

Correct, except for the drive shaft. You are now entering the world of custom made or modified driveshafts (length).

Klhansen is correct about setting the driveline angle and welding the pivots solid, except I don't believe the pivots on your 46 contain rubber. No mess, set the angle and weld.

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'Bolter
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Cool thread. glad i found it. Can this be done with a 38 passenger car??


Vendor and manufacturer of the No name, No fin, No logo cast aluminum 216/235/261 Valve cover and Hold Down Knobs
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Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Joined: Sep 2009
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Originally Posted by 6inarow
Cool thread. glad i found it. Can this be done with a 38 passenger car??

Honestly no idea if the later truck pumpkin would bolt up to a '38 car axle housing. The 1929-46 Chevy Master Parts Book I have says the 1938-40 passenger cars and same year 1/2 ton trucks shared the same axle housing part number, but used different torque tube/differential units.

Your "passenger car" question would be better asked in a forum outside of Stovebolt that talks "passenger cars". wink


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Instead of trying to weld those rubber-bushing spring perches, it's pretty simple to fabricate some radius rods from the axle tubes to the frame rails, using heim joints and steel tubing. That makes the pinion angle adjustable, if you use right and left hand threaded joints on the radius rods.

www.ebay.com/itm/303546213723?

Jerry


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