The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine Leaks, Gaskets, Etc.

I know the side cover uses a gasket. A friend suggested using a gasket maker but I want to make sure whatever I do lasts.

Ol' Roy's engine side cover is seeping oil all along the bottom flange and the valve cover also has leaks toward the rear. I intend to replace the valve cover gasket and adjust the valves while I'm in there.

This is a 1951 216 with the 2-bolt valve cover. Do the bolts have rubber seals under their heads?

When I'm ready to adjust the valves, I'm sure I'll have some questions about the paired cylinder method but in the meantime I want to get the proper parts and supplies assembled for the leak repair. I also intend to paint the parts while they're off.

There are a couple valve cover gaskets available: Mahle / Clevite - 7/32" = .22", Victor Reinz - 5/32" = .15" , FelPro - 5/32"

I'm inclined to go with the thicker Mahle/Clevite gasket but I'll do whatever you guys say. I intend to attach the gasket to the head with rtv or similar and just grease the top for easy removal of the cover in the future. Does the extra 1/16" make a difference?

While we're at it, what about the oil pan gasket? The three brands all look about the same except for small differences in price. All are cork-rubber. Felpro Blue Stripe, Victor Reinz, Mahle-Clevite

I think I've used all three, Fel-Pro, Mahle, and Victor Reinz with good results. On the valve cover gasket, make sure that you get the one without the bolt holes around the edge. The instructions say to fill the holes with RTV, but that's a kludge, IMO. Yes, there should be rubber seals under the bolt heads. Definitely use RTV on the head for the valve cover gasket. I doubt the extra 1/16" makes a difference unless your two studs are too long to snug up the cover against the gasket (valve cover itself distorted.)

On the side cover, clean everything off well and use RTV on both sides of the gasket so that sucker is sealed up well.

Any tips on installing the side cover? Should I do that the same way I do the valve cover? Glue gasket to the engine and apply grease to the cover? Or should I use rtv on both sides of the gasket? I have a bottle of Permatex Super 300 that I bought a few years ago to install the rebuilt water pump. Would that be suitable for the side cover?

Answers in reverse order...the Permatex 300 is fine for the cover. I would apply it to both sides of the gasket after cleaning the engine and cover very well. And I will emphasize the word "very." Please remember Permatex 300 (or even their Aviation Sealer) does not harden. I've taken off items that have been there for years successfully. Just remember to take it off slowly from a warm engine. I've had best luck with the thicker valve cover gasket...OR...as an alternative clean both the head and the valve cover very well and glue the thinner gaskets to each. Then install your cover with no sealer between the two gaskets. Although on the 216 I have seen this approach seep a bit so I suggest using sealer on both sides of the thicker gasket. Good luck!

The Mahle VC gasket is the last one I used, and is the thicker of the three. It may not come with the grommets for the studs. I had extras, so that wasn't a big deal. Fel-Pro is the one that has the extra holes for the later valve covers with 4 bolts. I wouldn't recommend using it.

Like Jon (and I) said, clean things up very well. RTV won't stick to old RTV and would likely interfere with the Permatex 300 as well.

When I get to the valve adjustment in this little project, the side cover can stay in place, right?

In other words I can put everything together and still do the valve adjustment without messing up my seal on the side cover?

I just looked at the valve cover gasket that's on the truck now. It's one of the ones with the ears and screw holes in it. You can see them sticking out on the driver's side.

make sure your covers are true and flat. As long as your two surfaces are clean , you may not need sealant.
Cork will last about 7 years tops. Ultra Grey is the best sealant I`ve seen. Both sides. Thin bead.

I second what Guitplayer posted.
The valve covers spread out at the bottom and need to be brought back to straight lines along the sides.
The stud holes get mashed out of shape and need to be brought back to where they belong.

The side cover bolt holes become dished in. They need to be hammered flat with a body hammer.
They side cover can become twisted.

The best case scenario would be if you had a bare block on an engine stand to do your tinsmith work.

I like to put both of these parts on the block without gaskets so than I can check for gaps with a feeler gauge.
I find that this step is way more important than what kind of gasket and sealant is being used for having leak free valve and side covers.

I ordered these from Jim Carters but haven’t installed them yet I also ordered these other 3 gaskets u mentioned but can’t recall the brand.

The valve covers with 4 bolts around the edge won't need grommets, as there shouldn't be any holes in the center for the rocker arm studs.

Like Carl said, with the 4 bolt valve covers you need to flatten out the area around the bolt holes. I can almost guarantee that they'll be dished.

Right. I've installed valve covers on lots of cars over the years and I always make sure they're perfectly flat.

Ol' Roy has the two big bolts in the center. I just mentioned that the valve gasket that's on there now has the little ears sticking out with the holes in them for the four bolt cover but of course they're not utilized.