The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop RestoMod for '55 Chevy 3100 (1st Series)

Over 12 years ago, I restored a 1955 Chevy 3100 (1st Series) - it took me 5-years. A year later, it was stolen in front of my home. Four weeks ago, I finally bit the bullet and purchased a new one from a Bring-a-Trailer online auction. It arrived last week from Seattle to my home in Santa Monica, CA. Now that I have it, I am considering options for this project and hope to get feedback from you.

For example, I am considering a complete resto-mod, starting with a bolt-on chassis. I know of Art Morrison and have been in touch with them. Seems pricey to me, and I have met other resto-mod people who advise to find a local fabricator who can develop the same/similar product at a lower cost. So, does anyone have advice or experience with Art Morrison versus going local to achieve the same/similar results? Happy to share my vision for specs (see below). To be clear, my goal is not to build a hotrod or a frankenstein-looking truck. Rather, I want my truck to ride like it was built in 20267 but to look like a 1955 model. Also, I am not interested in speed. This will be an every-day driver with reasonable gas mileage and lower than average maintenance requirements.

NOTE (to any skeptics): I am not planning anything radical until I've had a chance to drive it for at least 4-6 months. When I posted this same content (above) in the Welcome Page, I got a lot of pleas not to molest this truck. However, I have been driving it for a few days, and already I am seeing many of the same issues that I had with my previous build. This is a truck that was handled gently and brought back up to a high standard of restoration before I got it. As suspected, driving a 1955 suspension with a 70+ year old technology is fun.

But, like any vintage vehicle, the quirks are clear. Driving during the day is a bumpy "cruise," sometimes including a few shakes and shimmies that eventually will loosen bolts and challenge my tie-downs (I am going slowly and don't plan to exceed 40mph for a while or at least until I've worked out the kinks). Driving at night is somewhat problematic. The wiring jiggles and cuts in/out when crossing any bumps in the road, including headlight and turn-signal failures. This will be a daily driver for me, because I adore it. And, just as with my last truck, the compliments (as I drive around Santa Monica) are constant. People have cheered me by the side of the road and chased me down the street to offer praise. I am very happy with the initial experience. However, my inclination remains. I do believe that a real daily driver (or day/night driver) requires reliability, stability, and performance (more than the truck currently offers). So, I am still thinking of swapping basic elements to ensure what I need. In that vein, I welcome your input related to the option for swapping a chassis as the starting point. This decision will be tightly connected to a new engine and transmission, of course. So, I understand if your initial advice covers that topic too. On that matter, I repeat - I'm not looking for speed and value gas efficiency and drive-ability over other performance factors.

Thanks for any counsel that you can provide.

You could look into ‘Flat Out Engineering’. They sell weld on kits for the stock frame to use C4-C6 Vette front and rear suspension. Quite a bit cheaper than full blown Art Morrison. I had to make a new trans tunnel plate, but used the engine and trans from the vette. Other mods have to be done for steering column clearance at the v8, but their kit incorporates rack and pinion from the Vette.

ChipO: As you know, I don't have a shop to do anything on my own. So, looks like Art Morrison with a local team for labor, unless the local has other ideas. I have one lead for a reliable and honest contact (we'll see) in Santa Monica. I'll keep posting.

Not challenging your intent but it seems that your concerns should all be able to be addressed with something significantly less that a complete rebuild. These trucks can be reliable, stable, and withing their limitations have decent performance.

My situation was entirely different but I did change the drivetrain, and electrical but retained the original 1950 suspension, steering, frame, etc. and find that driving could be done daily if I desired.

To start with I would have someone fix the electrical issues (something loose?) and check out the steering/suspension parts so that it can be driven while you decide what your plan is.

Holy smokes, Morrison is expensive! Have you looked at The Rod Shop? Scott's Hot Rods? Or on the opposite side of L.A. County, TCI? Maybe Kugel in La Habra can build you something.

After I spent many years as an ASE certified master mechanic, 30-something years of teaching auto mechanics in high schools and state trade schools, and building racing engines as a sideline, I "retired" from the public education system and spent the next 15 years as a mechanical inspector. That job included doing "pre-purchase inspections" of classic and special interest vehicles in several states- - - - -sometimes for international buyers who were spending $50K+ on their purchases. Most of the "resto-mod" cars and trucks I inspected ended up selling for pennies on the dollar of the original builder's investment. Their quality varied from "excellent" to "OK", to "rolling deathtraps". The real money was in "number-correct" restorations. A 59 Corvette I spent 4 hours inspecting went to a collector in France- - - - -for $90K. A 68 Dodge Charger went to Australia for $70K, but the seller had over $100K invested in it.

Bottom line- - - -if you don't have the experience and the shop facilities to do a ground-up resto mod yourself, you'll be money and time ahead to buy somebody else's turnkey project. Your checkbook will still need CPR, but not nearly as much as if you try to do a project from the get-go!
Jerry