1956 Chevy 3100 pickup, 235 engine: After watching a fellow on YT use grease, bread and a big taped bolt to extract the pilot bushing, I gave it a try. Just managed to make a mess. Next, borrowed an extractor tool from O'Reilly, but it wouldn't fit into the hole. Now, I've ordered a pilot bushing remover from Amazon that has rave reviews. Amazon says it won't work on steel bushings, just brass or bronze, but reviewers say it will. So, for $15 I'm going to give it a try.
Near as I can tell this is a bushing and not a bearing, correct? Installation on YT makes it appear it is a bearing.
Continuing to pack the hole with as much bread as it will take and pounding it in with a wooden dowel which just fits in the hole has always worked for me. No mess. The dowel needs to be tight in the hole.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Use a 5/8 NC threading tap, turned with a long crescent wrench. When it bottoms out against the counterbore in the crankshaft, keep turning. The bushing will walk up the tap and come out easily.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Going to give that pilot bushing remover a try when it comes in tomorrow. Sounds kind of like the threading tap you are talking about HL. If that doesn't work.... back to the bread but using a wooden dowel that hugs the hole like you said 52Carl. Thank you both. I hope to get it out one way or another this week. Thank you both! I will let you know the outcome.
I keep a tap on hand for just that purpose, with the end ground into a ball shape- - - -keeps the flutes of the tap from digging into the bottom of the counterbore. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The best $16 I've spent on Amazon for the threading tap. Shot the bushing inside the hole and outside with panther [censored] (Blaster). Then about an hour later threaded the tap, greased gunned it and out it popped. About 5 minutes altogether. Thanks for your valuable advice, as always.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I watched a few YT videos, then saw this post and assumed my problems were over. On my 54 I tried the bread method--no good. Tapped with 5/8 tap, screwed in a long bolt and when it bottomed out, continued turning turned the entire engine over. Cannot imagine that the Amazon tool with grease zerk is adequate. Tried OReilly's tool, but too big for the size hole. Bought a tool from Amazon to screw the bushing out, and cannot move it. I assumed I was foolishly trying to remove the crankshaft flange. Details on a replacement bushing says it is 1.093" OD which is what my bore is. Photo shows that I have damaged and removed a bit of the outer layer of this bushing, but it has not moved one iota. I tried penetrating oil and propane torch, but nothing. Is there any value to heating this with an acetylene torch? I would be afraid of damaging the rear main seal.
Have you tried bolting back on the flywheel, then using a couple of vise-grip pliers locked onto the flywheel and wedged against the block to prevent the crank from turning while you torque on the tap threaded into the old bushing?
I recall somewhere back in time where Jerry "Hotrod Lincoln" suggested something along like this crank immobilization method, to hold things steady while you do the removal process. I just couldn't find the specific thread where I saw that.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Wood wedge against the flywheel teeth. Review HRL’s instructions.
~Charley 1954 Chevy 3100 with 235 “Bud” Follow along in the DITY 1963 Chevy half ton stepside short box 230 1954 GMC 3 ton 302 And several more Chevy camper and work trucks 1979 1987 1996
I drilled out the bushing with a big Silver and Deming drill bit; big enough to allow a hacksaw blade in. Using a hacksaw blade, I cut the bushing on opposite sides being careful not to damage the crank. Now it came out easily!
Installing the new bushing wasn't much fun - even after leaving it in the freezer overnight.
I guess some cranks are tighter than others. (no jokes, please)
I have very good luck just packing it tight with grease and making sure there is no air bubbles in the grease. Then a metal rod or a bolt that is a close fit and a couple good whacks with a soft face heavy mallet. Comes right out. As for the new one pressed in, putting in the freezer over night does not gain you much on such a small thick wall diameter. Maybe .0005 at the most. The press fit for that small should be about .001 to .0015 at the most. After you get the old one out, use 120 grit metal sand paper to clean the bore, then flush it to get all the grit out. Lightly grease the bore and then tap the new bushing in using a flat face block or rod to drive it in with a mallet.
Don
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck "The Flag Pole" In the Stovebolt Gallery 1946 2-Ton grain truck 1946 3/4-ton pickup, 1953 1-ton pickup 1957 1-ton flatbed dually, 1954 Pontiac Straight Eight Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
The tap method works, and there's no need to use a bolt. Just screw a couple of flywheel bolts into the flange and put a pry bar between them to keep the crankshaft from turning, and keep cranking on the tap when it bottoms out. "Why is common sense such an uncommon thing?" Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Hallelujah !! bushing is out. I used several successive drill bits up to 3/4" to accommodate the slide hammer tool. Took several strokes, but it came out. I really !!! appreciate the recommendations.
