The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 Harmonic Balancer

HELP!!!
I’ve been trying for 2 day to remove the Harmonic Balancer on this 235 and it’s eating my lunch .
See attached picture. Since it’s so stubborn that I had to put two bolts and a 4 foot pipe on the flywheel area(no the flywheel and bell housing are not installed) to keep the crankshaft from turning. I also put a three foot pipe on the ½” drive handle at the puller side. I’ve also used an impact wrench ⅜” drive with no results.
I must confess that the puller I’m using meant for is for pulling the steering wheel, but its hold the lever arm force I apply.

Someone probably used Red Loctite on it when it was last re-installed. Put a torch on the snout and see if it loosens up.

Otto, I suspected that could be an approach.
Should it be applied at front or between the pulley and front cover seal.

Please be careful. The balancer as you probably already know contains a rubber disc (which makes it work) and if you overheat the thing you might ruin the assembly. Jerry mentioned the balancer out of another Chevy engine (think it may have been the 396) would fit and work on the 235 but I can't recall for certain.

Heat up the hub of the balancer, but not too hot or you'll melt the rubber inside the balancer. {Jon G beat me to the punch on that}

Or get a proper puller. You can rent one (full refund on return) from most parts stores. I know O'Reilly has them.

If you don't want to heat the Balancer, stand the block on end and soak the cavity with Kroil or a home brew of 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF.. Let it soak for a day or 2.

I good puller will help a lot too. The Balancer from a 292 will work as long as you cut it down to the correct length and recess the seal area.

I took one off of my spare motor and used a basic puller and it bent and ended up using a heavier puller and that held up but it was still difficult to come off

Get the right puller for the job, and if it still won't pop off, hit the end of the drive screw of the puller with a big hammer. Don't get crazy with the hammer blow. You are just trying to let the balancer know who the boss is.
That balancer is a tapered fit. It wants to come off.
After a decent blow with the hammer, tighten the drive screw a bit and repeat until it pops off.
I would not use heat. The center of that rubber ring rides right up against the center hub.

That's a pretty flimsy-looking puller you're using- - - - - -try one with a reinforced center that won't flex when you torque down on the center bolt. Also, make sure the tapered center piece is small enough that it won't lock up on the balancer instead of pushing on only the crankshaft snout. I've seen several pullers with a center taper too big to reach through the balancer hub to the crank.
Jerry

I have an OTC Stinger harmonic balancer puller Link (there are knock-offs available for less money on Amazon) and it pulls balancers off without a hitch. I have needed to use a bolt to put on the crank nose to pull a 216 balancer that has the hand crank lugs. Same issue with pushing it back on (I threaded the crank snout) and had to build a longer adapter to screw into the crank snout.

I suspected that many on the Forum would laugh and beat me up about the puller I was using. Okay, I can enjoy your jokes about the puller. Yes I was going on the cheap with what I have on hand.
But klhansen, that’s suggestion is expensive.
Tuts59, sorry I can’t implement your suggestion that's a heavy engine and I don’t have the means to perform that task.
52Carl I watched some YouTube videos one specifically commented that he thought it was as you said about being tapered and when removed it wasn’t. Unless the taper is minimal and not easily perceived.
Jerry, I’ll keep your points present.
Thanks guys. I’ll get loaner tool from O’Reilly's. Use moderate heat and wack the darn thing.
Stay tuned!

That type of balancer has a squared-off shape so the crankshaft can be turned with a 3/4" square drive ratchet. The taper on the puller jackscrew needs to be 5/8" diameter or smaller to prevent hanging up on the balancer before the thrust gets to the crank snout.
Jerry

Go to that Amazon link and look at the alternatives. I think I saw a similar one for $35. Not that I'm recommending you buy cheap chinese crap.

I bought mine ages ago and I recall it was well under $100.

Thank you for your support.
The dimensions of the tip of the puller is really helpful in deciding which puller to get. I’ve too had looked in Amazon for the puller and prices are not bad.

Question: I’ve found a harmonic balancer for $150 in Facebook marketplace. What your take on the price?

I bought my balancer for 50 dollars 7 years ago and I thought that was high, but with today’s inflation who knows. Still, my take is it’s allot.

There's no need to buy one if you have an Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, or O'Reilly Auto parts anywhere near you. They loan proper harmonic balancer pullers for free.

Even Napa does this for free

Yahoooooo!!! Got the darn thing off!
Didn’t need to apply heat. A loaner tool from Auto Zone, more Rust Buster, tapping the balancer O.D. and lever power on the tool. Think that also the lub on the center pivot point also helped.
Looks like I’ll have install a sleeve on the balancer, a new woodruff key, new seal.
Question: what’s that black ring at end of the balancer?

Did you remove the heavy "black ring" from the balancer shown in the 3rd picture? That picture shows a distinct ridge, that might have been the remnants of an earlier installed speedi-sleeve??? The 4th picture still shows a less visible black ring, but without the ridge or step seen in the 3rd picture. I think that "black ring" may be residual sealant used on a previously installed speedi-sleeve. It should clean up, if that's what it is, before you install a new speedi-sleeve.

Cleaned up the harmonic balancer and all the black circular stuff was removed. It was kind off black rubbery but I feel it came off the seal since I can’t see any evidence of a Speedo-sleeve. How ever you can see in the picture the groove created by the seal lip. I have yet to remove the seal.
Looks like I’ll purchase a Speedi-sleeve. The groove is about 0.0125 deep. The outer diameter of the harmonic balancer shaft is about 1.7625.

If you are looking to drill and tap the snout, PM me and you can use mine. Im just south of you in New Braunfels!

Chris

Texas - That was some serious buildup behind that seal. Glad you were able to clean it up.