The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline On to Okie bushing replacement - 1950 3100 ?'s

Take a picture of what you got there ,curious as to how far in it is

Is there any of the replacement bushing sticking out of the torque tube? If so, try grinding a shallow groove in the OD and grab it with a bearing splitter. Then GENTLY tap it out with a hammer.

www.ebay.com/itm/323587392450?

Jerry

There should be plenty of meat available to use Jerry's grooving suggestion. Most bearing splitters have threaded holes to connect a puller to. That should work better than hammering on the bearing splitter with the puller pushing on the end of the driveshaft. Similar to the puller pictured.

Here it is. It's sticking WAY out. I would guess 1 1/2"+or - in tube..just a guess
See picture.

That step a little bit back of the front end may be enough for a bearing splitter to grab on to.

It's a little hard to see, but the splitter in the ebay ad does have threaded holes in it.
Jerry

Todd - Here's another "thinking outside the box" idea that might help you get that bugger back out.

Maybe this Tube split collar clamp with a 1.740 ID could be clamped around the exposed section of the Okie below the forward bushing ridge and used as a larger driving and/or pulling surface than the tiny lip you have presently?

Hope the idea may be of some help to keep you from pulling your hair out. Best of luck!

With a collar like Dan suggested or even two muffler clamps put on opposite of each other with some sort of bracket to center a spot for a slide hammer to attach to pull it out evenly .

What about drilling a dowel pin hole and tapping out the bushing with a small punch?

Thank you for ALL the suggestions.
I am taking today off and will look into my options.
One question is how hard is it to remove the tube? Is it separate? To work on it instead of crawling under the truck to do this? Or remove the drive shaft & tube?
Thank you in advance.

Removing the tube is a fairly involved operation. Axle shafts have to come out and the differential unbolted from the axle housing. Then the differential carrier with ring gear has to be removed and the driveshaft with pinion gear removed through the rear of the tube. Probably easier to just work under the truck. Maybe put it up on jack stands to give yourself more room.

There are some pretty hazardous conditions involved in getting the torque tube and the driveshaft dismantled. If you don't check the gear tooth contact pattern and duplicate it exactly on reassembly, you'll almost be guaranteed to create a gear whine- - - - -sometimes an extremely loud one, and the wear pattern the gears have established for decades will be incorrect. Wear on the gears will be accelerated as the mismatched tooth contact tries to establish a new running relationship. If you choose to remove the torque tube and carrier assembly from the axle housing, DO NOT dismantle the ring and pinion unless you also intend to install new gears in the process. The odds of reestablishing the exact backlash and tooth contact pattern on used gears is somewhere between slim and none.
Jerry

Kevin & Jerry,
Thank you.

Todd could you measure how far the oakie is sticking out .Thinking that the oakie I have is 5 3/4 long so you took out the front bushing that is 1 inch the bushing that is inside the tube is 1 1/2 plus the seal maybe 3/8 inch .the bushing that is still inside should be further down so there should be a space in between lining up the old with the new there should be about 3 inches of space between the two . So looking at this on my desk something don’t add up the oakie looks like it has not even reached were the old bushing is yet .I am going to look at a tube I have to see if anything may help

100% correct.
It is 6 inches inside to the next bushing/seal. Nothing in-between. It's just stuck in open tube area with the drive-shaft in the center.

Oops sorry: it's in the tube 2-1/2 Inches..

Okay looked at a older tube the inside looks consistent without the bushings in place I have a post from a year or so ago were I had some difficulties and ended up taking my tube apart but I was planning on doing a gear swap anyway so I took it apart but I don’t think I had to as the issues I had could have been looked at a bit more .I think your oakie will come out thinking that it is so far out maybe try if you can find a length of pipe to fit over the oakie so you could try to wiggle it from side to side then if you have your clamps tap from each side as it will need to come straight out .if you could wrap wire around the oakie at the bump from the centre of the length of wire then after a few wraps loop it from both ends to come out to the centre and and with the two ends wrap them to a bolt and use a slide hammer to see if it will budge.

2nd thoughts the wire may not work unless very thick and most likely stretch and do nothing .but maybe something like this but keep thinking would be nice to use a slide hammer to rig something to pull from the centre .

Exhaust clamps like Kevinski showed with a three arm puller might do the trick. You still have the driveshaft in to push against.

Drilling and tapping a couple holes in the center of the bushing assembly (between the bushings in it might allow you to thread some bolts in for something to grab on to. The holes shouldn't affect anything once the oakie bushing is eventually installed.

Ok, update:
Stuck okie bushing seal finally removed. Was a major pain. I tried Several methods. Nothing worked. See picture of aftermath.
Transmission all rebuilt , now installed. After a new okie bushing seal. Hoping to put it all back together today.
Todd

Ok, drove about 12 miles . Smooth shifting. No noises. Very happy so far. I rebuilt the 1950 3 speed. Saving the 1954 3 speed as a spare. Here is a picture (Mt. Shasta in background) when I pulled over to do a visual check of 3 speed and rear end. Rear end is dripping slightly. I guess I'll need to get the gasket. Does anyone have the gasket number handy? When I called my Flaps none in stock and they said the picture was different than I described. They said two uneven holes. Mine are all exactly even 10.
Todd

Cover gasket is Fel-Pro RDS5088. It will be thicker than the gasket on the front of the differential, but the same pattern. That one is FEL-PRO RDS5090.

What all did you replace in your tranny rebuild?

Kevin, Thank you.
I replaced both bearings Main & Clutch. Needle bearings in the main shaft, 2nd speed gear, 1st & reverse gear, synchronizer rings. Oh and 2nd / 3rd shifter fork .
Todd

Kevin,
Here is a picture of my rear end. The gasket pictures do not match what I have? In the pictures it has two holes that are offset a bit. Mine is even all the way around. What am I missing here?

So how did you get the bushing out and what did you do to the new bushing together it in again.Sure looks like it gave you a fight.

I'll have to double check what I bought. I thought I had it in my spreadsheet of parts purchases, but didn't find it there. Maybe I bought them from Jim Carter or another vendor. I'll check my receipts.

Well, I didn't find a receipt, but Jim Carter has the axle cover gasket their item # ME292 for $15. I think you could find it locally if your parts counter guy is worth his salt.

Try rock auto for part numbers

The numbers I gave you were for 3/4 ton and 1 ton HO72 axles. My bad.
The Filling Station has both the 1/2 ton gaskets: differential to axle (thin) FS54A (GM# 370246) and the cover (thick.) FS54 (GM # 370245 per the 1929-54 parts listing)

So I tried Several things nothing would move it. So I cut it off (being very careful not to cut driveshaft!. Then I drilled 3 holes triangle pattern. Tapped the holes for my pulley puller. NOPE ripped the threads right out. Next: drilled it almost as wide (safe as I could go) then used a small metal blade and cut thru bushing on two holes. Then, and only then it came out! Still with a fight. The new bushing seal I took to my Machinest friend with the original bushing I pulled out. He said he hardly took much off but give it a try. I put it in my deep freezer at Minus 3 degrees overnight. Slapped antiseize on it. Lubed the bushing and seal w/90w. It went in. It was some work but smooth!...
Todd

Nice picture Todd. Glad to hear the truck is running. Still some snow up there on the mountain - most of the snow here in Utah is gone.

Glad you got it out and the new one back in without having to take it apart.One thing I noticed on putting the gaskets on is at the bottom bolts put some sealer on the threads as the gear oil will make its way through the threads and drip as the bolts go straight into were the oil is

KEVINSKI, glad I read your response since years ago I removed the differential’s cover to drain and replace the oil and installed a new gasket and since then I’ve had a leak at cover. Now I realize that I should’ve put sealer on those bolts. Guess I’ll have to remove them and apply sealer.

You can try to back them out a 1/4 inch wipe the oil off the threads then brush on some aviation gasket .tighten the bolt .

Funny,
I put Aviation Permatex on the gasket. I didn't think to do the lower bolts...uggg. live and Learn!
Drove it to work today. Crazy how smooth a rebuilt transmission with new Okie bushing makes the ride now. Shifting is as smooth as butter now! I feel kinda spoiled. Haaa