Well, I've procrastinated enough. Time to rebuild my Carter YF 964S. This previous thread had to do with overhaul cleaning procedures.
I'm a guy who likes to follow directions exactly and tend to panic when things (even little things) don't go as directed. That's why I'm starting this post.
I'm using Carter's form 3526 HERE as my directions.
Step 4 references a "pump check DISK". When I took mine apart it had a small ball instead. Should work, but any comments (especially from Jon the CarbKing) would be appreciated.
Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 05/01/202611:37 PM.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Step 6 says to loosen diaphragm housing screws (4) and lift out entire pump and metering rod assembly. I loosened the screw and tried to lift out the entire assembly. I couldn't get it to move. Took the screws all the way out. Still can't get it to move. Removed the parts shown in step 7 from the diaphragm housing.. Still can't get it to move. Tried gentle tapping from the side, but if I remember correctly the diaphragm housing has a lip on it that goes down into the place where it mounts that will prevent sideways motion. There doesn't seem to be a place to get a grip on the diaphragm housing to pull on or pry against.
My next step would be to try grabbing the part of the housing that the diaphragm shaft goes through with a pair of vice grip pliers and rock the assembly out. But before I doing that I'll ask the peanut gallery for their thoughts.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Bill - From my reading on the YF's that "check disc" is just another term for a "check ball". I'm pretty sure Jon "carbking" will confirm.
My own experience with disassembling a YF2100S ran into the same problem with the diaphragm housing/assembly not wanting to come out. Turns out it was stuck together by the diaphram itself after having been assembled and left for an eternity.
I ended up having to gently pry on the side lip of the housing and the casting with a very thin flat tip screwdriver wrapped with a layer or 2 of electrician tape, to break it loose. Gentle repeated persuasion attempts and it should release.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I couldn't find a "lip" between the housing and the bowl of the carb (where the diaphragm edge sits) that I could get a bite on with any tool I had.
I looked for a tool that I could pull up on the brass shaft that moves the diaphragm. I ended up using a wire stripping/crimping tool because the "teeth" are rounded with no sharp edges. I grabbed the shaft and placed a thin sheet of scrap rubber on the top of the carb bowl to use as a fulcrum. I pried on the handle of the crimpers which pulled straight up on the shaft and the diaphragm assembly finally let go of the carb.
Like Dan's, some of the flange part of the diaphragm seems to have turned to glue on both sides.
Enough for today.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Bill - have been busy all day, and just found this thread.
Next time, put the bowl in water and boil it. The boiling water will often allow the diaphragm to release, and the housing will come out with the diaphragm easily.
Jon
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! The Carburetor Shop
Thanks for the hint Jon. The diaphragm is still stuck to the housing. I'll boil them tomorrow and take them apart.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
The world intervened yesterday. Have a little time today.
I disassembled MOST of the carb, but did not remove the choke or throttle shafts or butterflys. Both were held onto their shafts with brass screws that had been peened to prevent then from backing out and falling into the engine. The rebuild kit did not have replacements for the screws so I left them in place. Any comments?
My carb did not have any provision for the pump intake strainer shown in figure 9.
I've grouped small parts together by which figure number in the Carter overhaul document they are found in. I need to find a way to keep them together during the slow-cooker bath. I just ordered THIS from Amazon with delivery tomorrow, even here in the boondocks. They vary from just over an inch to over 4 inches.
Meanwhile, I'll put the large parts on to cook.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
