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#1602046 04/17/2026 11:23 PM
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
Working on my '54 and was able to borrow a rotisserie to paint my chassis, a HUGE help. Anyway, since I have access to a rotisserie am I better off doing the metal work...

1. On a dolly which is where it sits now
2. On the frame
3. Or mounting it on the rotisserie

I'm new at this so that's whay I'm asking. As it sits the work that I know needs to be done is...
The drivers side... Cab corner, inner cowl, outer cowl and a portion of the rocker IN FRONT of the door frame. Passenger side needs Cab corner, inner and outer cowl, floor pan and the cowl on the inside of the cab. Yes, I understand that this is the minimum that needs to be done.

So which mounting is best? My back LOVES the idea of the rotisserie : ) Thoughts?


1954 3600 Stakebed
non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 1,353
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 1,353
If you have access to a rotisserie that is the way to go, otherwise on a dolly but recognize that you will probably need to change the position to work on the bottom side (they do sit nicely on the firewall to work on the rear corners and underside of the floor).


1949/50 3600 Project
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,017
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,017
Definitely use the rotisserie. Here’s what I did with a different type of rotisserie.
Attachments
IMG_2665.jpeg (192.4 KB, 110 downloads)
IMG_1198.jpeg (197.16 KB, 105 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 87
Ok, I had read in places that metal work should be done "as the cab sits" If the rotisserie won't twist things that I'm all in : ) Thanks!


1954 3600 Stakebed
non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,017
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,017
You should definitely cross-brace the door openings and possibly across the A-pillar if doing a lot of metal work, especially if you're replacing part of a rocker panel. That applies whether you use a rotisserie or not.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
I haven't gotten into this part of the project yet. I don't THINK I need to brace the door openings since the portion of the rocker that needs help is in front of the door frame. BUT I was planning on bracing the doors from the hinge mounts to the latch side anyway. Probably a brace from drivers to passenger side as well.

For the A-pillars, do you mean from side to side or front to back? Or both? Tack welding the braces?


1954 3600 Stakebed
non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 196
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 196
Oswald;

please PM me... I have the parts you need to enable you to implement Kevin's ideas on a rotisserie for the cab.
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IMG_4377.JPG (342.75 KB, 82 downloads)


1952 Chevy 3100
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,017
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,017
Originally Posted by Oswald
I haven't gotten into this part of the project yet. I don't THINK I need to brace the door openings since the portion of the rocker that needs help is in front of the door frame. BUT I was planning on bracing the doors from the hinge mounts to the latch side anyway. Probably a brace from drivers to passenger side as well.

For the A-pillars, do you mean from side to side or front to back? Or both? Tack welding the braces?
You should brace no matter what. Measure the door openings before removing the doors in multiple places, especially if replacing cowl panels and cab corners or you’ll wind up grinding the door edges. (Don’t ask how I know that. 😉) On the A-pillars I used the hinge bolts for side to side. You could also tack weld.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

Moderated by  klhansen 

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