Working on my '54 and was able to borrow a rotisserie to paint my chassis, a HUGE help. Anyway, since I have access to a rotisserie am I better off doing the metal work...
1. On a dolly which is where it sits now 2. On the frame 3. Or mounting it on the rotisserie
I'm new at this so that's whay I'm asking. As it sits the work that I know needs to be done is... The drivers side... Cab corner, inner cowl, outer cowl and a portion of the rocker IN FRONT of the door frame. Passenger side needs Cab corner, inner and outer cowl, floor pan and the cowl on the inside of the cab. Yes, I understand that this is the minimum that needs to be done.
So which mounting is best? My back LOVES the idea of the rotisserie : ) Thoughts?
1954 3600 Stakebed non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
If you have access to a rotisserie that is the way to go, otherwise on a dolly but recognize that you will probably need to change the position to work on the bottom side (they do sit nicely on the firewall to work on the rear corners and underside of the floor).
Definitely use the rotisserie. Here’s what I did with a different type of rotisserie.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You should definitely cross-brace the door openings and possibly across the A-pillar if doing a lot of metal work, especially if you're replacing part of a rocker panel. That applies whether you use a rotisserie or not.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I haven't gotten into this part of the project yet. I don't THINK I need to brace the door openings since the portion of the rocker that needs help is in front of the door frame. BUT I was planning on bracing the doors from the hinge mounts to the latch side anyway. Probably a brace from drivers to passenger side as well.
For the A-pillars, do you mean from side to side or front to back? Or both? Tack welding the braces?
1954 3600 Stakebed non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
I haven't gotten into this part of the project yet. I don't THINK I need to brace the door openings since the portion of the rocker that needs help is in front of the door frame. BUT I was planning on bracing the doors from the hinge mounts to the latch side anyway. Probably a brace from drivers to passenger side as well.
For the A-pillars, do you mean from side to side or front to back? Or both? Tack welding the braces?
You should brace no matter what. Measure the door openings before removing the doors in multiple places, especially if replacing cowl panels and cab corners or you’ll wind up grinding the door edges. (Don’t ask how I know that. 😉) On the A-pillars I used the hinge bolts for side to side. You could also tack weld.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.