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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Aug 2019 Posts: 192 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2019 Posts: 192 | What is the correct product to use where the top cab meets the bottom cab. Seam sealer or body putty? Thanks, Grady. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,130 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,130 | Not sure what the difference is, but I used seam sealer. It's a water based product that's paintable. Seam sealer is flexible whereas body putty (bondo?) is not as flexible.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2019 Posts: 192 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2019 Posts: 192 | Thanksfor the info. That's what we were thinking. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,298 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,298 | Sandblast the snot out of that pinch weld, epoxy prime, use 3M panel adhesive in the groove. Its a 2 part product with self-mixing nozzle.
It sands to a very smooth finish and very solid. When you are done sanding, there should not be much of the product remaining. just enough to fill the gap.
If you address the rust issues properly, this will be a permanent solution. Regular seal sealer would likely not be.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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