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John,

It’s been a little since I was able to catch up. Everything is looking great and coming together. I like the rear view mirror. In mine they have one which is nice but it is cobbled together. Keep up the great work and a smile as you come closer. Your detail will be helpful for a few things I need to do to my 46.

Glen


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Originally Posted by Otto Skorzeny
And you can still stick your arm out the window in addition to the light and signal the old fashioned way. It's worked fine for me in regular driving in rush hour Atlanta for the last 5 years

I was thinking about sticking my arm out the window, but was wondering if that would be considered inciting "Road Rage" in today's world? 🙂 Also, I wonder how many drivers actually know what these arms signals mean?


~ John in Utah
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It's still on the driver's license test in georgia. I would imagine it's still on the test in most states. But of course nobody pays attention to flashing turn signals half the time. Wwho knows what some of these dopes think when you're using hand signals?

Turning right they probably think you're waving at them.

Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 03/16/2026 4:05 PM.

1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by Otto Skorzeny
But of course nobody pays attention to flashing turn signals half the time.
That assumes that people get off their phone long enough to use that handy little turn signal lever. frown

Probably time to let John get back to his thread and dispense with the off-topic stuff. (Me too, but I couldn't resist that last comment.)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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I am semi officially done with the wiring. Just thinking about a dome light, but not necessary right now. I will get the brake bled this week, top off the coolant and add some gas. Then I can look for leaks!

Also, I've been searching for this grey plastic bag. It has some old seat belts a friend gave to me. As you can see it was in my truck bed last summer and I cannot find it. I've gone through the garage twice and I'll search once more today. I know if I order some new belts I'll find this bag 10 minutes later. ARG!
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IMG_0275c.jpg (126 KB, 238 downloads)

Last edited by UtahYork; 03/16/2026 8:31 PM.

~ John in Utah
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Originally Posted by Otto Skorzeny
... I'm installing a newly rebuilt inline six in Little Red next weekend but I'm going to fill it with water. If there are any leaks or other problems, I won't have wasted $12/gal coolant.

Followed your idea and good thing. After adding the water, I noticed a leak from the lower heater core inlet. I snugged up the clamp, but had to add a second clamp. Those tubes on the heater core don't have any ribs - I think that would have helped to seal it. I added the extra clamps on the top and bottom to be safe. Check it again 20 minutes later and no runs, no drips and no more error.
Attachments
IMG_1800a.jpg (125.04 KB, 219 downloads)

Last edited by UtahYork; 03/18/2026 12:47 AM.

~ John in Utah
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Had some issues when converting my park lights to add turn signals. After installing a dual contact light sockets, I found some 1157 small globe bulbs that would fit under the glass lens. But when I turned on the park lights, the brighter turn signal lights would also turn on. Tried some different wiring options, but Kevin (klhansen) gave me ideas to help fix the issue. I had to change a wire since I was using dual filament vs. single filament bulbs. Turn signals and park lights are now working like they should.

Last edited by UtahYork; 03/19/2026 12:15 AM.

~ John in Utah
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I’m going to do same on my 46 using parking lights for turn signals. My 6 volt bulbs are similar in size. Hope they work. I do have orange bulbs though. Not sure, maybe I need clear.


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Originally Posted by Ponchogl
... I do have orange bulbs though. Not sure, maybe I need clear.

I just ordered some amber bulbs. I'll post some pictures when I get them installed.


~ John in Utah
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Put the wheels on last night, but still on the jack stands. Just wanted to see what it looks like with the vintage trim rings I found on eBay. I'll get the lug nuts torqued up, but need to find the torque setting. Now, where did I put those hub caps? Off to the parts shed.

Also, I found a bottle jack and tools on eBay, so I'm not left stranded with a flat tire. The lug wrench is 7/8" or 22mm, but the lug nuts I have are 3/4". I'm going to look for some 7/8" lug nuts that will fit my wheel studs and wheels.
Attachments
IMG_1807a.jpg (120.86 KB, 166 downloads)
IMG_1808a.jpg (101.73 KB, 165 downloads)


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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John, looking very nice. I like the trim rims. They add a nice touch. It is coming together nice. All of your constant hard work will be paying you dividends soon. I would like to see the smile on your face when you take it for a drive😀


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Do you have wheel covers, too?


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Originally Posted by Otto Skorzeny
Do you have wheel covers, too?

Hub caps? Yes - just need to get them out of the back shed.


~ John in Utah
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Originally Posted by UtahYork
Originally Posted by Otto Skorzeny
Do you have wheel covers, too?

Hub caps? Yes - just need to get them out of the back shed.

Ya, I just wanted to avoid confusion with the actual hubcaps, the caps covering up the wheel bearing nut on the end of the hub.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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John - Here a way back in 2007 reply from Jerry (HRL) to a similar question that is still applicable today.

Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
If a spec. isn't available, some rules of thumb should apply:
7/16" lug bolts- - - -65-70 ft./lb.
1/2"/12MM lug bolts- - - -85-100 ft./lb.
9/16" lug bolts- - - -110-125 ft./lb.
5/8"/16MM lug bolts- - - -125-140 ft./lb.

Going noticeably over these numbers risks bolt stretch and breakage. Much below those numbers will risk loose lug nuts after driving a while.
Jerry


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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Thanks Dan! Mine are 7/16 so 65-70 ft/lb should give me peace of mind.


~ John in Utah
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Tested and installed a horn on the firewall. I had to rewire my horn relay, but it looks to be working now. I had to clean the brass ring on the end of the steering column to get a good connection.
Attachments
IMG_1817a.jpg (116.1 KB, 139 downloads)
IMG_1819b.jpg (183.04 KB, 138 downloads)
IMG_1822a.jpg (82.16 KB, 139 downloads)


~ John in Utah
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Last week I put the front end on the ground getting ready to start it, but then I some how twisted my knee and I haven't done anything in the garage since. Just resting, some Tylenol and ice, and it's feeling a lot better this morning. Debating if I should do some work today or just relax and give it one more day. I did get my new lug nuts that are 7/8 inch and fit my spare tire tool, so maybe I'll just get those swapped out. I can probably do that while sitting on a stool.

Also, I ordered a spare tire carrier "J" hook and some new park lights from Jim Carter's. A packaging mishap had the "J" hook flying all over the inside of that box destroying the glass lenses. Kayla at Jim Carter's said the hook should have been taped down so it wouldn't move. She is taking responsibility for the shipping and sending me new lenses. Boy, that was simple. Jim Carter's comes through for me again!


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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Well, that plan went down the drain. The new lug nuts I ordered have a wider taper at the end compared to my stock lug nuts. They don't seat in the tapers in the wheel holes, so I'm not planning to use them. I'll just need to carry an extra wrench with my tool kit.
Attachments
IMG_1841a.jpg (141.68 KB, 108 downloads)


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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It is good to hear that Jim Carter is treating you well with the shipping damage. I may have to change my attitude about them.

Around Christmas they were offering gift cards and I figured I would get myself one for future use and I assumed that the gift card would either be mailed or sent electronically - but they were going to charge more for shipping than the value of the gift card! When I suggested that that was a bit unexpected, they acted offended and we ended our conversation.


Nick
1940 KC Model 1/2 Ton Pickup Project
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Comparing clear and amber bulbs for my park lights. I turned off the garage lights.
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IMG_1844a.jpg (113.97 KB, 228 downloads)
IMG_1845a.jpg (117.51 KB, 228 downloads)


~ John in Utah
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I do like that. Thanks for showing us. Looking good😎


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I'm fitting up the vintage fog lights (possible turn signals). I found some brackets on eBay and they just bolt to the bumper supports.
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IMG_1577a.jpg (143.84 KB, 174 downloads)
IMG_1882a.jpg (134.81 KB, 175 downloads)


~ John in Utah
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They look good John. I like the curve on your eBay brackets. I don’t remember, but suspect it is; is that the original grill? It sure does look like it’s in nice shape after all these years of being front and center.


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Originally Posted by Paul Mullen
... is that the original grill? It sure does look like it’s in nice shape after all these years of being front and center.

Yes, I believe so. It's the only grille that's been on it since I've had the truck.


~ John in Utah
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Originally Posted by Paul Mullen
They look good John. I like the curve on your eBay brackets.

I was thinking the lights were sitting a little high and maybe they'd look better a little lower to the bumper. But I'll keep them as is until I can get some miles on the road and look at them again later.


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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I think they look good, kinda line up between the guards and headlights. A friend of mine has them on his panel and truck both 46’s. They seem a bit spendy on eBay. I’ve been watching for some bumper guards. Probably spendy also😢.


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Got the fog lights rewired and installed. Driver side lens is a little foggy inside, so I might look for a replacement.
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IMG_1886a.jpg (130.61 KB, 125 downloads)

Last edited by UtahYork; 04/04/2026 5:07 PM.

~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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Originally Posted by UtahYork
Got the fog lights rewired and installed. Driver side lens is a little foggy inside, so I might look for a replacement.


John, step back and look at the truck as a whole. Is a slightly foggy lens really detracting from the appearance of the truck? Don't make more work and expense for yourself. If you hadn't mentioned it, no one would notice. They look absolutely fine.


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Otto, I know what you mean. Last night I was thinking about painting the little brackets and came to my senses and said don't do it. It's supposed to look like an old farm truck. I bought those lights off eBay because the chrome housings were pitted and a little rusted. I need to stick to my theme. Thanks for the wake up call. 🙂


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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Hahaha! that's funny.


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1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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I agree with Otto, we wouldn’t notice, would be looking at how the cool the truck!


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Originally Posted by UtahYork
Got the fog lights rewired and installed. Driver side lens is a little foggy inside, so I might look for a replacement.
The fog may be condensation and a new gasket might be the fix.


Phil
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They are sealed beams - GE 4415A, about $12 to refresh. I'm going to leave them "vintage" for now.


~ John in Utah
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Well, I'm finally trying to start the truck. Engine turns over great, but I could not get it started. It would almost start and then die when I let off the starter. I have the by-pass wire to the coil, but noticed the engine would not start the second I let off the starter. Checked and I had a blown fuse, when I let off the starter that cut the power to the coil. Replaced the fuse, but noticed I have 12.17v on each side of the ballast resister. Not sure that's correct? I posted a question in the Electrical section to verify.

Update: Now when I'm testing I get 12v+ on the top side and 5v+ on the bottom. Maybe I was measuring it wrong the first time.
Attachments
IMG_1331a.jpg (175.21 KB, 112 downloads)

Last edited by UtahYork; 04/11/2026 9:21 PM.

~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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It is correct if the points are open when you measure.

If the points are closed it should read close to 9 volts.

Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 04/10/2026 3:15 AM. Reason: spelling

'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
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Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon
It is correct if the points are open when you measure.

Yes - the points were open. Thanks Bill.


~ John in Utah
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Just to be clear, I am not a "wiring" genius - probably the most frustrating part of my rebuild. It has kept me out of the garage more days than any other part of trying to get this truck back on the road.

I've been trying to get the engine started these past few days and just struggling. Main fuse blowing, not sure gas is getting to the carb, checking spark,... I checked the carb this morning and there is fuel making it to the bowl, so no stuck float. I disconnected the alternator to see if that would stop blowing the fuse. I have tried to start the engine many times and the fuse is holding now. Spent the morning researching the wiring for the alternator and believe I did it wrong. I'm going to make a couple changes: 1. I did not have the alternator grounded, so I'll add one. 2. I wired the red wire from the alternator to my Ammeter. I figured it would pass through to charge the battery. That might have been blowing my fuse, so I will change that and run the wire from the alternator straight to the battery. The "exciter" wire should be OK. I have that wired to the ignition switch and it only has power when the key is ON.

Headed to Salt Lake for a hockey game, so I'll try these things in the next few days. The frustration is real. I thought I'd have the doors and hood install this past week and have the truck on a test drive. Oh well, I'll keep at it - one problem at a time - almost there.
Attachments
IMG_1902a.jpg (108.67 KB, 71 downloads)
IMG_1900a.jpg (132.83 KB, 71 downloads)
IMG_1901a.jpg (83.16 KB, 71 downloads)

Last edited by UtahYork; 04/11/2026 9:13 PM.

~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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Don’t lose track of where you started and where you are. I know, I’m a long way from the action, but don’t get discouraged John. You’ve learned a lot and even what you think of as “failures” are anything but. It’s all part of the learning curve. Pick yourself up, give yourself a virtual kick in the pants and get back out there. There is just a hiccup between starting and driving. You’ve got this!


1950 3100w/63K
Farm Truck: Fame-up restoration / modification
Follow the restoration story in his Project Journal
1950 Styleline Deluxe Coupe w/93K
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,626
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,626
Thanks Paul! I was able to make it to NAPA before they closed and picked up some 10 gauge wire. I’ll be able to get some work done tomorrow.


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
Here We Go
Follow in his DITY Bay

- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
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