It’s been a little since I was able to catch up. Everything is looking great and coming together. I like the rear view mirror. In mine they have one which is nice but it is cobbled together. Keep up the great work and a smile as you come closer. Your detail will be helpful for a few things I need to do to my 46.
Glen
1946 Chevy Truck 216 1/2 ton "Tales from a weekend mechanic" Follow in the DITY
And you can still stick your arm out the window in addition to the light and signal the old fashioned way. It's worked fine for me in regular driving in rush hour Atlanta for the last 5 years
I was thinking about sticking my arm out the window, but was wondering if that would be considered inciting "Road Rage" in today's world? 🙂 Also, I wonder how many drivers actually know what these arms signals mean?
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
It's still on the driver's license test in georgia. I would imagine it's still on the test in most states. But of course nobody pays attention to flashing turn signals half the time. Wwho knows what some of these dopes think when you're using hand signals?
Turning right they probably think you're waving at them.
Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 03/16/20264:05 PM.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
But of course nobody pays attention to flashing turn signals half the time.
That assumes that people get off their phone long enough to use that handy little turn signal lever.
Probably time to let John get back to his thread and dispense with the off-topic stuff. (Me too, but I couldn't resist that last comment.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I am semi officially done with the wiring. Just thinking about a dome light, but not necessary right now. I will get the brake bled this week, top off the coolant and add some gas. Then I can look for leaks!
Also, I've been searching for this grey plastic bag. It has some old seat belts a friend gave to me. As you can see it was in my truck bed last summer and I cannot find it. I've gone through the garage twice and I'll search once more today. I know if I order some new belts I'll find this bag 10 minutes later. ARG!
Last edited by UtahYork; 03/16/20268:31 PM.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
... I'm installing a newly rebuilt inline six in Little Red next weekend but I'm going to fill it with water. If there are any leaks or other problems, I won't have wasted $12/gal coolant.
Followed your idea and good thing. After adding the water, I noticed a leak from the lower heater core inlet. I snugged up the clamp, but had to add a second clamp. Those tubes on the heater core don't have any ribs - I think that would have helped to seal it. I added the extra clamps on the top and bottom to be safe. Check it again 20 minutes later and no runs, no drips and no more error.
Last edited by UtahYork; 03/18/202612:47 AM.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
Had some issues when converting my park lights to add turn signals. After installing a dual contact light sockets, I found some 1157 small globe bulbs that would fit under the glass lens. But when I turned on the park lights, the brighter turn signal lights would also turn on. Tried some different wiring options, but Kevin (klhansen) gave me ideas to help fix the issue. I had to change a wire since I was using dual filament vs. single filament bulbs. Turn signals and park lights are now working like they should.
Last edited by UtahYork; 03/19/202612:15 AM.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
I’m going to do same on my 46 using parking lights for turn signals. My 6 volt bulbs are similar in size. Hope they work. I do have orange bulbs though. Not sure, maybe I need clear.
1946 Chevy Truck 216 1/2 ton "Tales from a weekend mechanic" Follow in the DITY
Put the wheels on last night, but still on the jack stands. Just wanted to see what it looks like with the vintage trim rings I found on eBay. I'll get the lug nuts torqued up, but need to find the torque setting. Now, where did I put those hub caps? Off to the parts shed.
Also, I found a bottle jack and tools on eBay, so I'm not left stranded with a flat tire. The lug wrench is 7/8" or 22mm, but the lug nuts I have are 3/4". I'm going to look for some 7/8" lug nuts that will fit my wheel studs and wheels.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
John, looking very nice. I like the trim rims. They add a nice touch. It is coming together nice. All of your constant hard work will be paying you dividends soon. I would like to see the smile on your face when you take it for a drive😀
1946 Chevy Truck 216 1/2 ton "Tales from a weekend mechanic" Follow in the DITY
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Hub caps? Yes - just need to get them out of the back shed.
Ya, I just wanted to avoid confusion with the actual hubcaps, the caps covering up the wheel bearing nut on the end of the hub.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
John - Here a way back in 2007 reply from Jerry (HRL) to a similar question that is still applicable today.
Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
If a spec. isn't available, some rules of thumb should apply: 7/16" lug bolts- - - -65-70 ft./lb. 1/2"/12MM lug bolts- - - -85-100 ft./lb. 9/16" lug bolts- - - -110-125 ft./lb. 5/8"/16MM lug bolts- - - -125-140 ft./lb.
Going noticeably over these numbers risks bolt stretch and breakage. Much below those numbers will risk loose lug nuts after driving a while. Jerry
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Tested and installed a horn on the firewall. I had to rewire my horn relay, but it looks to be working now. I had to clean the brass ring on the end of the steering column to get a good connection.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
Last week I put the front end on the ground getting ready to start it, but then I some how twisted my knee and I haven't done anything in the garage since. Just resting, some Tylenol and ice, and it's feeling a lot better this morning. Debating if I should do some work today or just relax and give it one more day. I did get my new lug nuts that are 7/8 inch and fit my spare tire tool, so maybe I'll just get those swapped out. I can probably do that while sitting on a stool.
Also, I ordered a spare tire carrier "J" hook and some new park lights from Jim Carter's. A packaging mishap had the "J" hook flying all over the inside of that box destroying the glass lenses. Kayla at Jim Carter's said the hook should have been taped down so it wouldn't move. She is taking responsibility for the shipping and sending me new lenses. Boy, that was simple. Jim Carter's comes through for me again!
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
Well, that plan went down the drain. The new lug nuts I ordered have a wider taper at the end compared to my stock lug nuts. They don't seat in the tapers in the wheel holes, so I'm not planning to use them. I'll just need to carry an extra wrench with my tool kit.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
It is good to hear that Jim Carter is treating you well with the shipping damage. I may have to change my attitude about them.
Around Christmas they were offering gift cards and I figured I would get myself one for future use and I assumed that the gift card would either be mailed or sent electronically - but they were going to charge more for shipping than the value of the gift card! When I suggested that that was a bit unexpected, they acted offended and we ended our conversation.
Nick 1940 KC Model 1/2 Ton Pickup Project (with '37-'39 Bed and what we think is a '42-'46 Frame) Taos, New Mexico
They look good John. I like the curve on your eBay brackets. I don’t remember, but suspect it is; is that the original grill? It sure does look like it’s in nice shape after all these years of being front and center.
They look good John. I like the curve on your eBay brackets.
I was thinking the lights were sitting a little high and maybe they'd look better a little lower to the bumper. But I'll keep them as is until I can get some miles on the road and look at them again later.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
I think they look good, kinda line up between the guards and headlights. A friend of mine has them on his panel and truck both 46’s. They seem a bit spendy on eBay. I’ve been watching for some bumper guards. Probably spendy also😢.
1946 Chevy Truck 216 1/2 ton "Tales from a weekend mechanic" Follow in the DITY
Got the fog lights rewired and installed. Driver side lens is a little foggy inside, so I might look for a replacement.
John, step back and look at the truck as a whole. Is a slightly foggy lens really detracting from the appearance of the truck? Don't make more work and expense for yourself. If you hadn't mentioned it, no one would notice. They look absolutely fine.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Otto, I know what you mean. Last night I was thinking about painting the little brackets and came to my senses and said don't do it. It's supposed to look like an old farm truck. I bought those lights off eBay because the chrome housings were pitted and a little rusted. I need to stick to my theme. Thanks for the wake up call. 🙂
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Got the fog lights rewired and installed. Driver side lens is a little foggy inside, so I might look for a replacement.
The fog may be condensation and a new gasket might be the fix.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Well, I'm finally trying to start the truck. Engine turns over great, but I could not get it started. It would almost start and then die when I let off the starter. I have the by-pass wire to the coil, but noticed the engine would not start the second I let off the starter. Checked and I had a blown fuse, when I let off the starter that cut the power to the coil. Replaced the fuse, but noticed I have 12.17v on each side of the ballast resister. Not sure that's correct? I posted a question in the Electrical section to verify.
Update: Now when I'm testing I get 12v+ on the top side and 5v+ on the bottom. Maybe I was measuring it wrong the first time.
Last edited by UtahYork; 04/11/20269:21 PM.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
It is correct if the points are open when you measure.
If the points are closed it should read close to 9 volts.
Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 04/10/20263:15 AM. Reason: spelling
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Just to be clear, I am not a "wiring" genius - probably the most frustrating part of my rebuild. It has kept me out of the garage more days than any other part of trying to get this truck back on the road.
I've been trying to get the engine started these past few days and just struggling. Main fuse blowing, not sure gas is getting to the carb, checking spark,... I checked the carb this morning and there is fuel making it to the bowl, so no stuck float. I disconnected the alternator to see if that would stop blowing the fuse. I have tried to start the engine many times and the fuse is holding now. Spent the morning researching the wiring for the alternator and believe I did it wrong. I'm going to make a couple changes: 1. I did not have the alternator grounded, so I'll add one. 2. I wired the red wire from the alternator to my Ammeter. I figured it would pass through to charge the battery. That might have been blowing my fuse, so I will change that and run the wire from the alternator straight to the battery. The "exciter" wire should be OK. I have that wired to the ignition switch and it only has power when the key is ON.
Headed to Salt Lake for a hockey game, so I'll try these things in the next few days. The frustration is real. I thought I'd have the doors and hood install this past week and have the truck on a test drive. Oh well, I'll keep at it - one problem at a time - almost there.
Last edited by UtahYork; 04/11/20269:13 PM.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
Don’t lose track of where you started and where you are. I know, I’m a long way from the action, but don’t get discouraged John. You’ve learned a lot and even what you think of as “failures” are anything but. It’s all part of the learning curve. Pick yourself up, give yourself a virtual kick in the pants and get back out there. There is just a hiccup between starting and driving. You’ve got this!