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#15997 03/03/2004 3:30 AM | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 17 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 17 | Hi guys what's up I have a question about my 283 motor if anybody knows um on my harmonic there is no bolt in the middle on the crank to hold it on.I have a book on that year motor and it doesnt call for a bolt there on the balancer.Does anybody know if they actually have a bolt in them thaks | | |
#15998 03/03/2004 3:38 AM | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 259 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 259 | The two 283 engines I have were not drilled in the crankshaft for the harmonic balancer bolt.
I did drill and tap one of the crankshafts for the balancer bolt because I added air conditioning. I was told the added pressure from the compressor cycling off and on could loosen the balancer so I added the bolt to prevent that situation from happening.
Joe
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#15999 03/03/2004 3:48 AM | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 17 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 17 | hey Joe thanks that really helps I Started getting worried,I guess it is ok then like that there is a tapped hole there but it doesn't fit the normal balancer bolt. | | |
#16000 03/03/2004 5:35 AM | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 12 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 12 | i was told from engine shop they never made 283 cranks for the balancer bolt was told to put red locktite on crank to hold balancer | | |
#16001 03/03/2004 5:13 PM | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 962 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 962 | The early 283 cranks didn't have a balancer bolt. They used a press-fit like our 216/235/261 family does. I think the later 283s, the ones made in the hi-po 327 years (mid-60s) got a balancer bolt. Seems silly to not bolt the damper down, when it could spin to 6000 RPM!! 
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#16002 03/03/2004 10:15 PM | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,439 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,439 | maybe that's why mine is drilled crooked? What do you use to "press" the balancer on? I know you are not supposed to hammer on them.
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#16003 03/03/2004 10:34 PM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,760 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,760 | Hammering is OK, within reason, don't pound on it with a big sledge! Just keep the hammer blows off the outer ring! I use a big 3/4" drive socket, and tap the balancer on with a 3-lb. drilling hammer. This keeps the hammer blows centered on the hub. The danger is in dislodging the outer ring, which is rubber-mounted. If there's a center bolt hole, some parts stores have a threaded installer that bolts to the crank center, and a big nut is turned to press the balancer on. If yours has a tapped hole, it's been added by someone after it left the factory!
Jerry
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#16004 03/03/2004 11:27 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | The main reason not to hammer is that you could damage the crank thrust bearing. If you do decide to hammer use light blows and have someone hold the clutch pedal in to absorb some of the force.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#16005 03/04/2004 12:19 AM | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 1,586 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 1,586 | Hmm, I don't know about the hammering damaging the thrust bearing.I'm know little about physics, but a small block crank is 50-60lbs,plus whatever the flywheel and clutch or torque convertor weighs, the hammer maybe 5 pounds,the damper about 8 lbs,gotta figure the crank mass absorbs the hammer blows before it gets to the bearing.Besides, the GM factory manuals describes the procedure , showing a driver tool and a large hammer.The several I rebuilt, I used a 8 lb sledge hammer, 3 blows ,the job was done. | | |
#16006 03/04/2004 3:01 AM | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 119 Member | | Member Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 119 | I've seen 283's with and without the bolt. For a friend, I once installed a reman short block that didn't have a bolt, but the crank snout had been knurled by the rebuilder, to build up the outside diameter, I suppose. The old damper was reused but it worked itself back out in a relatively short time. The guy's dad was a machinist, and he drilled and tapped the crank in place... I was impressed!
I always used a big block of hardwood to cushion the hammer blows. I agree the Tony... I don't think it would hurt the thrust bearing unless you get totally crazy with the hammer. You really don't have to beat the snot out of it. | | |
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