The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 1946 Chevy 1/2Ton - Parking Light Conversion to Turn Signal

Anyone convert their parking lights to turn signals on their '46? I probably need a dual contact socket. The hole on top of the head light bucket is 5/8 inch, but I didn't want to drill it bigger and was unsure if the large bulb would fit under the lens? Anyone got pictures of their conversion?

Otherwise, I'll just add some turn signal lights down low on the front bumper.

My truck is a 54 and I have the duel element bulbs and they fit the same as the original bulb .Found this on the internet

I believe the dual element bulbs are the same outside dimensions as the single element bulbs so fit shoud not be a problem, they will get hotter but probably not a problem if the lens's are glass.

Kevin, Those sockets need an 11/16 inch hole and my existing hole is just over 5/8 inch (not quite 11/16), so these might be the ticket. Thanks for the heads up.


My original bulbs were tiny, not the size of a regular 1157 bulb. So I was worried it would stick up too high. But the socket Kevin pointed out above says it's made to fit my '46.

I bought some sockets from Amazon. Of course they were from that giant Asian country. They measure just a smidgen over 5/8". I still have 4 left. Send me PM. I used two for my parking lights on my '51 and the bulbs were tight, but they fit in the housing.

One thing to check is does a duel filament bulb have the same ears on the outside for the bulb to latch if so then use the origional socket with a double filament bottom ,it may or may not fit but worth a look.The socket I posted looks like they are a universal style and you may find cheeper at local flaps and also there are different styles that may fit without drilling any holes .here are two I found that clip on the hole that may work. I used the clip on type and bent the tabs a touch to fit the smaller hole on my light .

Just checked and the bulbs don’t have the same ears so a single holder won’t accept the double bulb.

Thanks everyone. I have a pair coming from Alaska! 😁

Update: I got the dual contact light sockets and installed them. I found some 1157 Small Globe light bulbs online and now my glass lens fit. I'll complete the wiring tomorrow.

John - I'm interested to see how the light output looks with the lenses in place??? Maybe both daylight and darkness shots for comparison?

Looks like I'll need to troubleshoot a little. The park lights are looking too bright - like the turn signal element in on. When I have the park lights on and turn on the turn signal, the light dims for a second (like how the park light should work) and then blinks bright for the turn signal. When I turn off the turn signal, the light goes bright again. I unplugged the turn signal wire on one side and the park light looks normal (dim). When I plug the turn signal wire back in, the light goes bright. Not sure why the front turn signal wires get power when I set the park lights. I'll start with the turn signal wires first to make sure I wired those correctly. All the tail lights work as they should.

Sounds like you might have a grounding problem, John. Either that or a crossed circuit. Hope you can get it figured out.

I have a Signal-Stat 800 for my turn signals. I was looking on eBay and most just list the item, but I saw one that was marked for 6V. I've swapped my truck to 12V. Should I up grade to the Signal-Stat 900? Anyone know if my 800 model should work on 12V systems?

That switch should work fine on 12V. A 6V rated switch is actually more robust than a 12V rated one, based on amp rating. I have a Signal Stat 900 and I think the only difference from the 800 is it has a pilot light on the switch that flashes when the turn signals are activated. The 800 uses a 2 prong flasher and the 900 uses a 3 prong with the pilot contact.

Actually, I'm using a 3-prong flasher as in the instructions I have. This morning I unplugged the left turn signal wire and only the park light comes on. I tested the turn signal line and there is power when I pull the head light switch to the first stop and no power at the second stop. I'm going to drop the head light switch and wiring to verify I have the green and red wires from the turn signal switch wired correctly. If correct, I'm not sure why power is being sent to the front turn signal lights when the turn signal arm is in the neutral position.

Are you using the "P" terminal on the flasher?

If so, what is it connected to? That is likely your problem.

The SignalStat 800 does not support that connection, but you could use it to a separately mounted indicator bulb or LED on your dash somewhere.

Yes - I was thinking I needed the flasher with 3 terminals for the three wires. But now looking at the instructions, it looks like two wires from the Signal-Stat 800 (power and blue) go to a single terminal on the flasher. And then the yellow wire goes to the second terminal. I'll leave the yellow wire as is and move the blue wire to the same as the power in. Or should I just go find a 2 terminal flasher? Thanks for the heads up Bill!

You can use the 3 terminal flasher, just leave the P terminal unused, or as Bill said, route it to a pilot light that will flash to tell you the turn signal is on.

No luck yet. 1) I moved the blue wire from the P terminal and put it with the brown power wire on the X terminal. My park lights are still bright (using the turn signal filament) and the little green light on the turn signal arm is solid green and stays on. Turn signals work and little green light does not blink like it use to. 2) I disconnected the blue wire - park lights are still bright, turn signals work and no green light on handle.

I'm thinking maybe it would be easier to just splice the wires for the front turn signals to the wires for rear signals. Then, not use the green and red wires from the Signal-Stat for the front signals?

Just reading previous posts and I think I know why the little green light stays on. I had the blue wire with the brown wire. Brown is power coming into the flasher, so blue was getting constant power. Blue must blink the green light? Maybe I should leave the brown power by itself and move the blue wire from P to yellow wire and see if the green light will blink? Just guessing here.

OK - That didn't work either. Signals work, but no blinking green light. The only time the little green light blinks is when the blue wire is connected to the P terminal.

If I disconnect the front turn signal wires, the park lights to work properly - dim lights. If I connect the turn signal wires, park lights will be bright. I'm guessing it's using both filaments in the bulbs.

Apparently your Signal Stat 800 does have a pilot light so that wire (and only that wire) will need to be connected to the P terminal on the flasher. You may need to ring out the circuit for the pilot light to be sure which wire it is. The flasher terminals should only have one wire to each terminal, with the P terminal ONLY going to the pilot light.

Your park lights use a single wire that splits to the bulbs, so if you have one of the bulb sockets wired backwards (bright filament to park light) you'd get feedback thru that to both park lights with the flashers on.

You can't wire the front turn signals to the rear signal wires, or your front signal lights will come on when you mash the brake pedal.

[on edit] I was wrong about the difference between the 800 and 900 switches. I believe the difference is that the 900 has a hazard switch so all 4 corners flash at the same time. I also messed up on what turn signal switch I have. It's an AutoLamp 9000, not a Signal Stat 900. Mine is a 4 wire switch that doesn't incorporate brake lights with rear turn signal lights.I used a set of relays to make that work.

... and if you connect the front turn signals to the rears the fronts will come on when you hit the brakes

I am converting the single socket on the park light to a dual socket. I did test each wire: park light, turn signal (bright) and ground. I'm just not sure why power is being sent to the front turn signal wires when I pull the head light switch out one click? I tested these wires after disconnecting them from the light, so I don't believe the new sockets have anything to do with it. When I turn on the park light I checked the rear lights. They have two bulbs and only the top bulbs come on. When I use the turn signal the bottom bulbs will blink. I'm going to double check that right now.

Wow - I didn't think of that. Thanks for the heads up. I won't do that! 🙂

John, do you have that wire (marked in red on the attached) from the park light terminal on the headlight switch connected to the turn signal switch? If so, that would be your problem. Seems that the diagram assumes you're using single filament bulbs in the parking lights. The 1129 bulbs it says to change to are single filament. The turn signal circuits for the front need to be completely isolated from the park light circuits.

I'll go check, but I probably do.

YES! I unplugged the red/green tracer wire and it looks like everything is working as it should. So I'm guessing if I'm switching to a dual filament bulb this one wire is not needed?

Thanks Kevin!

John, I just happened to see that on the diagram you posted. Glad that got it fixed for you. Definitely a crossover between the turn and park signals with that wire connected.

I posted a quick video to show the lights working. LINK

Light works good 👍.A good idea would be to see if you can get the bulb in amber that way the would be like a modern signal and won’t confuse the younger drivers or the local fuzz won’t be bothered.to pull you over .

Nice video John. The lights look like they will work out just fine!

I think I did see some of these bulbs in amber. Now you got me thinking again!

I just found some amber LED replacements for 6V dual filament bulbs at LEDlight.com and ordered a couple for my turn signals.

They have them for 12V as well.

Thanks Kevin. I found some old school bulbs. I'll try the amber look.

This thread will be very useful. Thank you all.

Kevin when you get your led lights ,let us know how they work out ,I have been thinking of changing out some but would like to know how well they work .From what I read so far you may have to get a special flasher ,I hope if that is the case they have 6 volt ones .

I found 6 volt solid state flashers on line in both positive and negative ground.

Will do. I bought a 6V flasher locally, but don't know if it's solid state or not. On my setup, the flasher drives relays that operate the bulbs, so shouldn't be an issue. I'm assuming there's enough resistance in the relay coils, as they worked fine when I had them operating.

It isn't the case of "enough resistance", its a case to too much resistance. The mechanical flashers have a bi-metallic strip that heats up when current is flowing (while the lamps are on). When the strip gets hot enough it bends and the circuit (contacts) opens stopping current flow and turning the lights out. The strip cools and straightens out the bend. The contacts touch again and the whole process starts over again, about once a second. When there is too much resistance (like when one of the bulbs burns out) there isn't enough current flow to bend the bi-metallic strip, so no flashing. Same when low current (high resistance) bulbs (like LEDs) are installed.

Solid state flashers don't depend on a bi-metallic strip to open and close the circuit. It switches the circuit on and off electronically. Many require a separate ground wire.

Bill, I had heard that LEDs cause rapid flashing with standard flashers. An incandescent bulb burnt out in a pair wired in parallel does that, as there's more resistance (and lower current flow thru the flasher) over the two in parallel. Oh wait, You said low current caused no flash. I'm getting one of those electrical circuit headaches! LOL!

One burned out lamp (on a 2 lamp circuit) could cause a slow blink with long time on while the bi-metallic strip slowly heats up enough to break the circuit and then the same as normal quick off time.

Or ....

The one remaing good bulb may not use enough current to make the bi-metallic strip bend enough to ever break the circuit. This results it the good lamp coming on and staying on.

I've even seen a combination of both symptoms. When approaching a red light to make a left turn the turn signal is turned on. Engine speed is around 1000 rpm and the voltage from the alternator is around 14. 5 volts. At this voltage there is enough current to cause the bi-metallic strip to do it's job slowly. But as you pull up to a stop the engine speed reduces to a 500 rpm idle and the alternator output drops to 12.6 volts. Now the current flow is reduced below the threshold necessary for the bi-metallic strip to bend enough to open, leaving the one good light on all the time .

I'll bet your headache is worse now Kevin.