52Carl, my thought process was the same as yours. Mine were beat up all over but not bad rusted, I figured cheaper than the body man. Except I opted for a very good and expensive paint job. The only thing I notice buy not too bad, the bolts inside the bed thru the fender flanges suck the bed outward some. I will see if my bed picture shows it and attach it. You really can’t see it. 🤣 maybe it’s just me!
I took my ragged rear fenders as a challenge. And besides that, I'm cheap!
But I hear you about paying someone else to straighten them out. (Did I mention that I'm cheap?)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Carl, I put reproduction rear fenders on my panel, they were fiberglass. They fit very well, am happy with them. People would rap their knuckles on the fender and remark how good the steel was back in the day.
My sheet metal finessing skills are limited. A man needs to know his limitations. I can fabricate metal patches and weld them in just fine. I then do hammer and dolly work and stop just before I start to make it worse. On this restoration, I want to avoid as much body filler as possible so I have to pay my painter to finish the metal work, or pay for new fenders.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
