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'Bolter
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Now that I have installed my door windlace I need to move on to the headliner. Getting it into place behind the lip of the windlace and windshield trim looks to be another challenge.

Anyone have some guidance or tips on how best to get the flimsy board type headliner in place without signficant kinks?

Last edited by Gdads51; 02/19/2026 3:06 PM. Reason: add detail to title

1949/50 3600 Project
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'Bolter
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Maybe a few tips offered in the link below will help?


https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...stalling-a-1946-chevy-1-2-headliner.html

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'Bolter
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I remember the centre bow having some puncture marks were the original cardboard liner was fastened . The bow were the metal was punched needs to be straightened so the new liner will slide all the way in .I used a two piece abs liner so it was more durable for the install .I also remember the centre bow was difficult to determine which way it faces.


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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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What Kevinski said about the crimps (center punch marks) in the center bow. The slot with the crimps faces forward and you have to flatten the crimps, install the forward section and re-crimp it to keep the bow in place. Put it up in the front (windshield trim removed) and work the lip of the windlace over the headliner with a ball end tool (pic.) Then install the rear section and screw the rear bow in place. It only took me about 20 minutes for the whole thing with my wife helping hold one side up while I worked on the other. Really fairly easy. Before I did anything, I laid the sections out on the floor and put some weights on them to flatten them out (they were shipped rolled up.) I also needed to punch the holes for the passenger side sun visor (only the driver's side was punched.) I measured the driver's side and mirrored that to the passenger side.
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Ball end tool.jpg (4.01 KB, 159 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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Thanks for the insights provided.

I have seen the original crimp/punch marks in the center bow and will confirm that they are removed/opened up.

I can see how having the inner windshield trim removed will help, I was just hoping to avoid needing to remove it.

My sections also were rolled up when shipped but have been sitting flat for a while. Mine also only has the driver's side visor holes in place and I planning to use the driver's side holes as a template for the making the other side prior to installation.

I will probably use painters tape to hold up the panel as I work on the installation because I am working alone.

Should I install the center bow onto the front section prior to installation in the cab? I was planning to install it after the front section was in place but that may be a mistake and if so I prefer to avoid making it.


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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Definitely install the center bow on the front section and crimp it in place. That'll stiffen up the rear edge and keep it from flopping around. You'll also need to slip the bow under the lip of the windlace, which will help hold that side up.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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Originally Posted by WICruiser
I will probably use painters tape to hold up the panel as I work on the installation because I am working alone.

Painters tape and strong magnets are a lone workers friends.

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'Bolter
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I had not thought about magnets, that is a great idea as I am slightly concerned about the tape pulling off material or at least color on the cardboard (?) material as it is not very robust. Plus I may be able to hold with a magent but still slide the panel along the surface for final alignment.

Thanks for the confirmation on the center bow, it makes sense to install it first.


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'Bolter
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I got the headliner installed but it was pain and isn't pretty. The pre-cut holes for the visors do not line up with the cab (probably shouldn't have made the passenger side holes in advance). I still need to install the rear and windshield trim pieces which could be "fun" as the holes are covered by the edge of the headliner.
It seemed like the outside front edges that extend down between the A pillar and the windshield were not cut correctly making it impossible to get them in place without kinking and complicating the efforts to get the visor holes to line up.

Another step in the project that I am not really happy with but glad to put behind me.


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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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It sounds like your whole headliner is too far forward if it covers the holes for the windshield trim and the visor holes don't line up. Did you get the outside front edges tucked behind the windlace? If not, that's likely what's keeping it from sliding back to the correct position. My repop headliner came from Jim Carter and fit fine.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
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It covers holes in both front and back so maybe the problem is the panels are not fully engaged in the center trim (although I was pretty sure the front was prior to crimp and install). The misalignment with the visors holes is mostly side to side - if the whole panel could move toward the driver's side it would be better. The headliner is tucked behind the windlace on both sides but I believe that the tails coming down the A pillar are preventing the panel from moving side to side in the front. I may play with it a little more before I ut the final trim in place but I may just live with it.


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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Nothing says you couldn't trim the tail on the driver's side to let it move that way, but the would probably require removing it completely. I seem to recall that the rear section had divots at each screw position for the rear trim, but I may be just dreaming that up. I'm pretty sure the front edge was smooth. I think it would be difficult to adjust it once it's in place, so your "live with it" option may just be best. I may have just been lucky on my install.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

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