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#1597906 02/16/2026 1:32 AM
Joined: Aug 2015
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G
'Bolter
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I am putting the truck back together so I can begin driving it again.
Wondering about the bottom door seal placing. I have the new seal on (the old one was flat & essentially gone). Do I need to put some sort of glue on it to hold it on?
Im editing now, I check YouTube and see that the door seal is all one piece! When I ordered it they must have cut it for the bottom area!
Also I don’t have a seal plate strip. The holes are in the door.


1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
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Posts: 5,994
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,994
How about a picture of which "bottom door seal" you're asking about??? Are you talking about the seal that attaches to the edge of the cab floor at the door step opening (the door closes against it) or the part of the seal on the bottom of the door itself (that seals against the bottom of the door opening along the lower edge of the cab step opening)?

BTW - It looks like it's time to wish you a Happy Birthday. smile


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
Follow this story in the DITY Gallery
"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
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K
'Bolter
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The door seal looks like this on the bottom of the door. You can get them at any of the vendors .the seal that goes on the floor of the truck and is held on by screws does not need to be glued but the one on the door that is pictured was glued on mine .
Attachments
IMG_6760.png (1.66 MB, 112 downloads)


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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The one that Kevinski pictured is part of the door weatherstripping that gets glued on the door all the way around. That metal strip is the belt and suspenders keeping it in place. The joint of the weatherstrip should be at the center bottom of the door under the metal strip. Here's the metal strip Jim Carter Link

There's also a piece of windlace (different from the type that goes around the front top and back of the door opening) that goes along the floor at the bottom of the door opening and is held in place by a similar metal strip. Here's that lower door windlace. Jim Carter Link and the retainer for it Jim Carter Link

Happy Birthday.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
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Here is the floor retainer and rubber
Attachments
IMG_6226.jpeg (213.63 KB, 105 downloads)


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
Follow in the DITY
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,146
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,146
Kevin, shouldn't the bulb portion of that windlace be out toward the door? That's the way I have mine installed.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,331
K
'Bolter
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The picture of the door is one from the internet so could be the rubber installed wrong ,


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
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Posts: 806
G
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Gdads51
How about a picture of which "bottom door seal" you're asking about??? Are you talking about the seal that attaches to the edge of the cab floor at the door step opening (the door closes against it) or the part of the seal on the bottom of the door itself (that seals against the bottom of the door opening along the lower edge of the cab step opening)?

BTW - It looks like it's time to wish you a Happy Birthday. smile

Thank you🎉
I’ll get back out there & photograph it for you all!

Last edited by klhansen; 02/16/2026 5:40 PM. Reason: removed duplicate quotes

1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,146
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,146
Originally Posted by KEVINSKI
The picture of the door is one from the internet so could be the rubber installed wrong ,
I was remembering incorrectly about the lower door windlace. It's not a bulb type like the one that goes around the opening, but just a flap of rubber that sticks out from the retainer. I tracked down a picture of mine. The windlace is the tan stuff from Restoration Specialties, and the sill windlace is from Jim Carter (very close match to the interior color.) The retainer may also be from Jim Carter, as I had to replace one of mine that was too rusted to use. Notice how the retainer traps the end of the windlace at the corner (right end of the photo.)
Attachments
IMG_7242.JPG (100.68 KB, 66 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
Pictures of left door I’ve done nothing too yet.
Followed by the door I’m working on.
Also last photo of the rubber pad above the new floorboard I put in.

# 1 is the retainer strip on the bottom of the door with a worn out rubber. I’ll replace that.
# 2 is of the edge of the new floorboard bent over the rocker with 2 screws. They don’t hit anything but it might look better to spot weld them.
That old rubber I’ll remove & clean. What would be best to clean that old glue with?
#3 is the Px door bottom trying to show the shape of the new rubber seal.
#4 is the Px side door bottom with the old rubber & retainer removed. It needs cleaning then replace the rubber seal with the retainer.
# 5 is showing the Px side top of new rocker joining the new floorboard. I have a slab of rubber (a part of a conveyer belt) laying over the floor. Then the new carpet. It may need something like a strip of angle to smooth the edge over the rocker ?
Then I need to replace the running board with the rubber seal.
Thank you!
Attachments
IMG_5197.jpeg (158.93 KB, 65 downloads)
IMG_5198.jpeg (225.02 KB, 65 downloads)
IMG_5199.jpeg (131.93 KB, 65 downloads)
IMG_5200.jpeg (131.3 KB, 61 downloads)
image.jpg (253.99 KB, 57 downloads)

Last edited by glennj3; 02/17/2026 5:17 PM. Reason: add description of pictures

1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,146
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,146
Your first picture shows a retainer that looks like aluminum. The weatherstripping is basically gone.
The second picture (attached with notes) shows that someone has replaced part of the floor and screwed it to the rocker where it's folded over the edge. The screws may hit the door and scar it. I'd recommend removing the screws and plug welding to hold the floor to the rocker panel. Someone has also glued some weatherstrip material to the rocker that doesn't belong there. The seal should be on the door, held on by the retainer strip. Your 4th picture shows what looks like an original steel retainer strip. That one may be salvageable, but replacements are available. I'd recommend replacing the aluminum strip as well, as that's going to cause corrosion problems with the dissimilar metals.
Your third and fifth picture are a bit unclear (I can't really see what you're trying to show there.)
Attachments
IMG_5198.jpg (236.81 KB, 48 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

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