I am putting the truck back together so I can begin driving it again. Wondering about the bottom door seal placing. I have the new seal on (the old one was flat & essentially gone). Do I need to put some sort of glue on it to hold it on? Im editing now, I check YouTube and see that the door seal is all one piece! When I ordered it they must have cut it for the bottom area! Also I don’t have a seal plate strip. The holes are in the door.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
How about a picture of which "bottom door seal" you're asking about??? Are you talking about the seal that attaches to the edge of the cab floor at the door step opening (the door closes against it) or the part of the seal on the bottom of the door itself (that seals against the bottom of the door opening along the lower edge of the cab step opening)?
BTW - It looks like it's time to wish you a Happy Birthday.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
The door seal looks like this on the bottom of the door. You can get them at any of the vendors .the seal that goes on the floor of the truck and is held on by screws does not need to be glued but the one on the door that is pictured was glued on mine .
The one that Kevinski pictured is part of the door weatherstripping that gets glued on the door all the way around. That metal strip is the belt and suspenders keeping it in place. The joint of the weatherstrip should be at the center bottom of the door under the metal strip. Here's the metal strip Jim Carter Link
There's also a piece of windlace (different from the type that goes around the front top and back of the door opening) that goes along the floor at the bottom of the door opening and is held in place by a similar metal strip. Here's that lower door windlace. Jim Carter Link and the retainer for it Jim Carter Link
Happy Birthday.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Kevin, shouldn't the bulb portion of that windlace be out toward the door? That's the way I have mine installed.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
How about a picture of which "bottom door seal" you're asking about??? Are you talking about the seal that attaches to the edge of the cab floor at the door step opening (the door closes against it) or the part of the seal on the bottom of the door itself (that seals against the bottom of the door opening along the lower edge of the cab step opening)?
BTW - It looks like it's time to wish you a Happy Birthday.
Thank you🎉 I’ll get back out there & photograph it for you all!
Last edited by klhansen; 02/16/20265:40 PM. Reason: removed duplicate quotes
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
The picture of the door is one from the internet so could be the rubber installed wrong ,
I was remembering incorrectly about the lower door windlace. It's not a bulb type like the one that goes around the opening, but just a flap of rubber that sticks out from the retainer. I tracked down a picture of mine. The windlace is the tan stuff from Restoration Specialties, and the sill windlace is from Jim Carter (very close match to the interior color.) The retainer may also be from Jim Carter, as I had to replace one of mine that was too rusted to use. Notice how the retainer traps the end of the windlace at the corner (right end of the photo.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Pictures of left door I’ve done nothing too yet. Followed by the door I’m working on. Also last photo of the rubber pad above the new floorboard I put in.
# 1 is the retainer strip on the bottom of the door with a worn out rubber. I’ll replace that. # 2 is of the edge of the new floorboard bent over the rocker with 2 screws. They don’t hit anything but it might look better to spot weld them. That old rubber I’ll remove & clean. What would be best to clean that old glue with? #3 is the Px door bottom trying to show the shape of the new rubber seal. #4 is the Px side door bottom with the old rubber & retainer removed. It needs cleaning then replace the rubber seal with the retainer. # 5 is showing the Px side top of new rocker joining the new floorboard. I have a slab of rubber (a part of a conveyer belt) laying over the floor. Then the new carpet. It may need something like a strip of angle to smooth the edge over the rocker ? Then I need to replace the running board with the rubber seal. Thank you!
Last edited by glennj3; 02/17/20265:17 PM. Reason: add description of pictures
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
Your first picture shows a retainer that looks like aluminum. The weatherstripping is basically gone. The second picture (attached with notes) shows that someone has replaced part of the floor and screwed it to the rocker where it's folded over the edge. The screws may hit the door and scar it. I'd recommend removing the screws and plug welding to hold the floor to the rocker panel. Someone has also glued some weatherstrip material to the rocker that doesn't belong there. The seal should be on the door, held on by the retainer strip. Your 4th picture shows what looks like an original steel retainer strip. That one may be salvageable, but replacements are available. I'd recommend replacing the aluminum strip as well, as that's going to cause corrosion problems with the dissimilar metals. Your third and fifth picture are a bit unclear (I can't really see what you're trying to show there.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.