The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest How Do I Make a Hose Barb for Heater Hoses?

The heater hoses that go from the water pump attach to nipples (one is the heater control valve inlet, the other is the heater core outlet) that protrude through the firewall. To make a long story short, I want to get some copper pipe and get that little upset on it, to act like a barb. I'll still put a hose clamp on it.

It looks like the pipe needs to be compressed to get it to "scrunch" up to form the upset. How do I do that? Can I buy a piece of pipe that has it on one end? :confused:

Help!

Thanks for any info.

Bill

TXLATX I think the term you are refering to is beading older aircraft have a lot of beaded pipes in the fuel, oil, and pnuematic systems, you used to be able to buy kits to do this back in the day but I havent seen one in a long time! here is something that might be of interest.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/icpipebead.htm


DS

you shouldn't need to do it, the proper size hose on standard copper water pipe will clamp on fine - OTOH, if you really think you need something, you should be able to find compression ferrules [brass] at a plumbing supply to put on the pipe end

Bill

You are right, DS. That "upset" looks the same as beading. At $300 for a machine, I'll skip it unless I can find a local shop that has one and can put beading on a section of pipe for me.

Bill, thanks again for your much appreciated insight. I wasn't sure if the beading was absolutely necessary to keep the hose from slipping off of the nipple. I think I'll go with your suggestion of a plain ol' straight pipe.

I'm not sure if it is obvious by my tool question, but as far as my heater control valve saga goes, I've ordered a valve from Jim Carter this time. They supply a 5/8" x 3/4" elbow hose to adapt the HCV to my core. I'm going to cut off the beading on the 5/8" inlet and sweat on a transition and 3/4" pipe for the heater hose to attach to. Not elegant, but cheaper than the $90 rebuild.

Bill

TxLaTx,

If your heater valve has sensitive goodies inside, don't get too frisky with the MAPP gas and solder.

Stuart

actually, that's worth knowing Bill - I have all the different sizes of everything from a variety of original heaters [GM did mix and match], so I can make use of that 3/4 x 5/8 elbow

but yeah, the bead is excess, I've used straight pieces of pipe to patch hoses together for the mill that stand 70psi+ no problem

Bill

Right on, Stuart. Just before nodding off to sleep, I made a mental note to cut the 5/8 inlet pipe as long as possible to try to keep the heat away from the guts. I have a pencil torch, which should help. I'll also wrap a wet cloth on the guts end of the pipe to try to suck the heat out.

Bill, glad to know I could finally give some info back to you after so long of being on the receiving end of the info pipeline!

I don't know if it popped up on your radar, but I found several additional suppliers of Ranco H16 HCVs, and these even have the capillary tubes. I added a picture and links to the post on the topic where I whine about crummy reproductions.

Bill

yes I caught the Ranco part and made note [for the tech tip ] - but I agree with GMs decision to skip the capillary control later on, it really is extraneous with the dash control that controls the flow, and I still lean to having a flow control out under the hood where leaks are easier to deal with

Bill