The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Question on my non-opening windshield on my 1946 Chevy pickup

I'm curious about this option also. I wish mine was functional on my ‘46. My crank handle spins freely. I haven’t looked into it yet. Is it unhooked, worn badly, windshield sealed shut? I have heard that they can leak. The novelty and conversation of it being open along with improved airflow leads me to want it operable. So far I’ve haven’t had it in rain nor do I want to.

Some photos taken under the dash as best possible from each side of the regulator assembly would likely help us help you identify the problem(s). As described in your post it could any one or a number of possibilities. The regulator should offer some resistance when in operation and not spin freely. Resistance should be somewhat similar to that experienced in operating the door window cranks.

I finally took a little time to look at this issue. The windshield does pivot smoothly when pushed in and out. As shown in the picture the regulator gear is very worn, the crank handle/ shaft spins freely. I’m wondering how badly worn it can be, or what other factors determine if it can be rebuilt? Does the crank—shaft usually need repaired also.

Rick your regulator gear has a fair amount of wear as seen by the cupped gear ridges. The crank handle shaft may be as badly worn, or perhaps not. You won't know until you remove it and get a closer look.

The good news is there is a Legacy Tech Tip Windshield Crank Rebuild which should give you a good starting point on figuring out if you can fix your own.

If you find out self repair is beyond your capability, Chev's of the 40's offers a rebuild service for your unit.

I did check out the rebuild link, doesn’t sound like they did anything concerning the gear portion. I did price the item on Chevs of the 40s, but still don’t know if I have a good core at this point. I did find a link to “this old coupe” that has new replacement Regulator set ups made with new aluminum framework and a two layer stainless steel tape part number CB – 301 for a cost of $425. No core needed. when I take mine off after show season ends in a few weeks, I will have a better idea of its condition and which option I want to go with. There is a guy on numerous old truck fb sites that was rebuilding those he could for $125 as an option, I’ll check into further also.

Update on my repair. After removing the regulator I found that the housing was egged out. ( Which I read is common) I found evidence of an attempted repair using JB weld that failed. Considering I was going to buy a replacement from This Ole Coupe that didn’t need a core. I decided to take mine apart. Figured nothing to lose. I located and machined a 3/8” hole and installed a flange bearing (bushing). And reamed it to 5/16”, this did make the barrel part rather thin. I did need to shorten the main gear end by about 1/16”. Reassembled and seems to work fine. Time will tell how long this will last. If it lasts any time at all I will be happy. I think I can upgrade to a thicker bushing in the future if needed.
I did push the windshield out (prior to repair) at the last few shows I did and the response from spectators of this feature was very positive. Can’t wait to try it open on a warm drive next year.
Cost: a few hours of tinkering and a $3.00 bushing.

Bushing will out live most repairs I’ve seen. The egged cast is common.