Finally got the flywheel off the 1960 C10 with the 235 with 120,000 miles on it. As seen in the 1st pic, it has many heat cracks in it, so it looks like I need a new one. Started looking in the usual places, and that's where I ran into issues.
I have two pins sticking out of the crank, so I need a flywheel that matches. If you look at the 2nd pic, there are 3 additional holes, 2 of which line up with those pins. I found a flywheel on RockAuto with the correct crankshaft holes, but the pressure plate holes are too far apart from each other. I have searched many other sites, and most of them have the same flywheels as RockAuto.
I have found a couple of used flywheels on eBay, but who knows what I am getting?
There should be three dowels in the crankshaft flange, not two. Unless the third dowel is installed, you will have a massive oil leak into the bell housing which will trash a new clutch in a matter of a few miles. You'll also need to put some type of sealer on the flywheel attaching bolt threads, (blue LocTite for instance) as those holes are also exposed to the crankcase and can leak oil, especially if the wrong type of lock washers are used on them. I wouldn't hesitate to run that flywheel- - - -just get it ground flat and ignore the minor cracks. I've run MUCH worse ones for thousands of miles. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I would take that flywheel to a shop that resurfaces them and see what they say about the cracks. If they're not too deep, resurfacing may get you back on the road.
Are you planning on reusing your pressure plate and clutch disk? Not a good idea.
You could go with a clutch kit and matching flywheel from RockAuto.
If I'm correct, going by the 1958 235 crank I installed in my 216, there should be three pins in the crankshaft to locate the flywheel correctly to the crank, with one of the pins being slightly offset from center between the two adjacent bolt holes. Your flywheel shows that matching pin hole on the upper part of your pics.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You're right, Jerry (Hotrod)... I looked again (now that it is dry under the truck after cleaning off the 65 years of oil that turned into dirty grease) and there are 3 dowels... Thanks for the info on sealing the bolts. I was planning on using Blue LocTite. I did not know that LocTite would also seal the holes. I also just had a good friend tell me the same regarding ignoring the heat cracks.
Thanks, "klhansen". Yes, I noticed the offset in the holes as well. Yes, I am replacing the clutch and pressure plate. I checked RockAuto, and they do not show a clutch kit with a matching flywheel. They are separate, and although you can get the clutch kit, they do not have the correct flywheel. So much for their "ALL THE PARTS YOUR CAR WILL EVER NEED"!!
I plan to go to my local machine shop on Monday and see what they can do with the original flywheel since it seems I cannot get a replacement.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Hey Mike... I will check there if the machine shop is a bust...
BTW... I used the bread trick to get the pilot bearing out of the crank, and it worked!!
1. I used WD-40 in the pilot bearing hole and around the bearing to help loosen the bearing. 2. I began to stuff Wonder Bread into the hole. 3. I used a Craftsman 10mm deep socket (3/8 drive) with a long extension and a hammer to push/bang the bread into the hole.
As the bread filled the socket and the pilot bearing hole, it began to push the pilot bearing out. The 1st pic shows the bearing starting to work its way out, and the 2nd pic is the socket and the compacted bread I pulled out after the bearing came out. I used a mini sledgehammer for the extra power to get it out.
