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I recently purchased a 1958 Apache 3100 and the seller mentioned that it was not the original engine. Based on casting numbers, what I have is a 1955 235 with an 848 head. The engine runs great (sans some oil leaks which I'm addressing).

Apparently, the way someone got the '55 engine mount to fit was by using a torch to cut rudimentary holes into the front crossmember. But those are on the beveled portion of the crossmember, so the engine mount wants to sit at a slant. Neither the bolts that hold the mount to the frame, nor the engine mounting bolts had nuts on them - the front of the engine was just resting in place. Further, the front lip of the mount tilts up to within a hair of the harmonic balancer.

Does anyone know of an adaptor or kit that can be purchased to correctly install the '55 engine mount into my '58 frame?

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it should have fit w/o any modifications. pics would be in order of what you have


~ BD.
You won't find me in an old folks home
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You probably have a passenger car mount and you need the truck mount bird legs.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1953 Willys M38A1 Fire Jeep
1978 Jeep CJ-5 Navy Jeep
1984 Jeep CJ7
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Ok. Guess I was misguided as to which years used side v center mounts. And maybe I mistook the reason for the holes being so ratty- maybe it’s because nothing was tightened down.

But I’m still curious about the mount resting on that slant in the crossmember. Does that make sense?

I greatly appreciate the help and insights!

Last edited by Gdads51; 09/19/2025 6:02 PM. Reason: Removed bad image link
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Trying to upload some pictures. Rookie files size issue on initial attempts. blush
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image2.jpeg (55.7 KB, 103 downloads)
image1.jpeg (54 KB, 101 downloads)
image0.jpeg (41.97 KB, 102 downloads)

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Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
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Just a note that your picture didn’t attach correctly, so won’t display for folks to see.

Watch this short video by klhansen and get your picture into the Attachment Manager.

Then you can edit out the non-working link at the top of your reply. wink

Edit: Disregard my reply. You got it figured out. thumbs_up

Last edited by Gdads51; 09/19/2025 6:00 PM.

~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
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Thanks Mike. I'm trying to post pics of what I have, but keep getting errors. Might be because I'm still on Moderated status. Anyone have picture of the truck version with bird legs?

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BTW - Your pictured “1955” 235 front mount is for 1955.1 (1st Series) front mount which fits the Advance Design (1947-55.1) trucks.

Your Task Force truck front crossmember is for a different engine mount design and has unfortunately been a bit butchered to try and install the earlier design mount.

Others with the bird leg mounts should come along soon. wink


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
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K
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Not sure but the earlier engine may not have same casting for the later mounts that is most likely why they used the front mount .there is imformation around that shows the differences if you search


kevinski
1954 GMC 9300
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Oh my. This engine becomes more "interesting and unique" at each turn.

If I follow what you are saying, what I need to remedie the situation is a front mount with "birdlegs", like what Mike B mentioned, is that correct?

And if so, is there a part number or supplier that would carry such a thing?

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Here are a couple pictures that will help visualize the correct "bird leg" style front mounts. They are almost identical to the V-8 mounts except a different length. The 1st pic is from a 1955-59 Factory Assembly Manual that shows the mounts and brackets that bolt to the later 1955.2-59 engines. The 2nd picture is a screen grab showing the actual drivers side mount for 1955.2-59.

It's important to note that the later 1955-59 6 cylinders had a different casting with a sloped front mount bolt boss on either side of the engine. The 1955.1 and earlier engines did not have the sloped boss. Just a horizontal flat surface boss on the drivers side that was used to mount the generator bracket on.

If you look at your engine, it has the horizontal flat mounting boss to support the generator and not the sloped bosses.

To know for sure what you have for an engine, take some pictures of the serial# machined surface directly behind the distributor and the block casting code, below and slightly forward of the distributor location. Also include the casting date codes, a letter followed by 2 or 3 numerals, located on the engine block just behind/slightly above the starter location. With that information, we can better ID your engine.

I haven't had a chance to search through the Stovebolt previous posts to see if anyone has tried to mount an earlier AD engine into a TF chassis. More to come as I and others can offer more info. smile
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~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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Well...I know the 1955 235 had the side mount provisions (3 threaded holes on the side of the block). And I know there used to be lots of kits...scads of them. Some of them didn't use the bird legs but a shorter version of them. Somebody had installed one of these in my truck at some point before I got it and instead of bolting it on he/she welded it. It would work with either a V8 small block or the 235 with side mounts. I ended up sawing it off and going with the front mount, however. Good luck.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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Thank you so much. This group is the absolute best. I hope that someday I will be able to contribute back even a portion of how you’ve already helped me.

There are definitely no bolt holes on the passenger side of the engine to accommodate the bird legs style mount.

A few more bits of info. Casting number 3835911. There is a data plate riveted above the casting number. Stamped in left side of plate is 35556 with the following stacked in sets of 3 digits on the right side of the plate:
060
010
020

What do any of these decipher to?

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I would guess bored .060, and the crank turned .010 and .020

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The block casting number 3835911 decodes as a 1953-55 passenger car 235, originally with a hydraulic cam and connected to a Powerglide automatic transmission.

As 1955 1 Series said, that riveted plate is most likely a rebuilders data plate and the 3 digit numbers should reflect exactly what he indicted. Since it's been rebuilt, there could be other changes to the engine, like a solid lifter cam in place of the hydraulic cam and lifters. No way to know for sure without closer investigation.

Below is a picture indicating the locations of the stamped serial number, block casting number and date casting codes. The stamped serial number and the casting dates codes will better define the engine details and year if you can provide pictures.

Still looking for info in previous posts about installing an earlier engine into the Task Force Truck.
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~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
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Finally got these take.

Block casting number 3885911
Casting Date Code F94
Serial Number 0732I8I F54Z

Head casting number 3836848
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image2.jpeg (68.73 KB, 52 downloads)
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54 not a 55. 0732I8I engine restamp F54Z full pressure 1954 Z car engine


~ BD.
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Thank you very much.

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Thanks again to everyone that has helped with info. I had a bit of mishap this morning while trying to transfer the engine from hoist to stand - the hoist tipped over and dropped the engine to the floor. It was my fault, not the hoist's. Luckily everyone was out of the way. Those front engine mount bolts are now bent 90 degrees to the rear and the oil pan was flattened a bit. So I have a bit more work to do to put this one back in order. Uggh.

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Ouch!! That's not good.
Be careful out there. Stovebolt engines are heavy.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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I'll 2nd Kevin's comment about being safe. Not only in lifting/moving these engines, but if you are going to use an engine stand to mount it for working on, be sure to get a stand that is designed for the longer and heavy in line 6 cylinder.

A standard V-8 style engine stand like the first pic below is not going to properly support the engine and can tip over extremely easily. These 6's are top heavy, and when trying to rotate them, tend to flop over during rotation.

The second pic is a modified V-8 stand that has an extended length and front cross bar with 2 casters to provide a more stable platform. Something like this is much preferable and safer. wink

BTW - Your casting date code F 9 4 decodes as: F = June / 9 = 9th day of June / 4 = 1954 model year
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~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
Follow this story in the DITY Gallery
"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
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Just me I will not ever bolt a 6 cylinder engine to one of those stands that are also way to high. Its just too much weight to have hanging by the rear flange, and for sure never hang it out on the bellhousing.


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
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Boy! I’m I happy to have read this post. I have a 235 that’ll overhaul and didn’t know which is the proper style stand I should get and this clear it up.
Thanks Gdads51


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