The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop 1946 Chevy - try rear glass install

I am new here hoping to find some help on the rear glass installation on my 1946 Chevy truck. I purchased new rubber for the rear glass. What I bought is the same thing that was there but new. I had a glazer come out to do the install he has done a lot of work for me in the past. He has 24 years experience owning his own glass shop. He could not figure out how to do the install. He said that it’s not the right thing. I have checked my part to make sure that I got the right thing. Couple sites that I looked at show exactly what I have. They want 450.00 to install new glass with what he says is the correct rubber seal. My original glass is slightly discolored and has some minor delaminating issues but I don’t want to change it for a new piece I like the patina. I have searched for any video showing an install on a 46 Chevy pickup and cannot find anything. I am hoping that someone can direct me to a video on the installation. I am very close to having my truck finished up. I have a few little minor things to do for completion. This window has been a real pain. If anyone can help me or offer any solutions it would be greatly appreciated thank you

Here is a YouTube video that explains one way to do the task. One of my buddies did it this way when he installed the rear window glass on my ‘46. As I recall he also used a little bit of liquid dish soap as a lubricant?

Thank you the seal that I have is 2 separate pieces but thanks for the info

It might be worth trying a different product? I learned the hard way, and believe from reading many others experiences, that Steele Rubber sells the best window and door seals available. They’re not cheap, but from my experience the few extra dollars spent more than offset the misery otherwise. I just checked their catalog and their one piece rear window gasket shows a price Less than $140, plus shipping.

It would help if we new what specific product you have.

Installing my rear window was a huge struggle. At one point I had to walk away. I came back a couple hours later after a cool down and lunch. I had the two piece rubber seal. I put the seal in in the cab frame and left it a little long so the ends would be forced together. I could not get the window to go in and cut off 1/2 inch and that helped. If the rubber is too long, the window cannot squeeze in place and the top kept falling down. I used Windex foam spray and that helped. I worked from the outside and started with the bottom and worked to the corners. I used a plastic pry tool. It took me a few tries since I pushed the window in too far and had to start over - very frustrating and I probably should have had a friend help. After the window was in I used my suction cup to move the window back and forth to get it seated. Then the struggle getting the lock bead installed. This took a lot of time since I didn't have the special installation tool. I just worked 1/4" to 1/2" at a time. Sprayed lots of foam cleaner to help slide everything together. I don't want to do this again! It wore me out. I put the window seal splice at the bottom, the lock bead splice at the top.

The rear window install on my '51 was a huge project as well. I used a tool for the lock bead, but it was the one that was just stamped sheet metal and was hard on my hand. I wouldn't want to try it without the tool, but I'd get one with a better handle on it. The job kind of wore me out as well. I wouldn't have wanted to do it with the bed installed. Wit the cab sitting on the pallet, it was much easier to get at.

At least you got it done.

I took advice from people here and bought an installation tool with a large handle to install the seal bead on my '50 and was pretty happy with the results. Once I got the tool positioning correct and lubricated the groove with dish soap it could not have gone much better.

If anyone here would like to borrow the tool I can lend it for the cost of shipping (both ways) which may make it cost as much as buying the tool.

Sorry to hear that. I've done a few of these and if you look up in the tech tips section above, you'll see instructions I wrote (along with input from a nice gent named Tinnerjohn) a while back. This was mainly to help with installing the lock strip that is the "chrome" type but should be helpful for any of it. It is easy to mess up the chrome lock strip using any sort of installation tool. The main thing is to make a ball end tool and go slowly but when you get the hang of it, you might find it sort of fun. After I did this I learned one way to make it go easier was to get some wire pulling lubricant (like the Ideal brand). I'm told that stuff almost makes the lock strip a push-in-with-fingers only affair but I haven't tried it.