I am in the process of rebuilding the trans and replacing the clutch on a 1960 Chevy Apache (C10) with a 235 engine. The engine has the one front and two rear mounts with the trans hanging off the bell housing.
While I am under there, I thought I would replace the leaking oil pan gasket. Is there enough room to drop the oil pan or do I need to jack up the engine and rotate the crank to a certain position to get the pan out while the engine is still in the truck?
I think the only thing that might be in the way is the tie rod. Nothing to worry about with the crankshaft position.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Probably no help, but I was able to remove mine. I have a 1960 235, but it's in a 1946 frame.
I think the 1946 frame is not in the way as much as the 1960 frame. I remember watching a video of I think a '42 and the entire oil pan is exposed. Thanks for the input!!
Just saw your picture and I think I am right. You have much more room between the engine and the axle because you have leaf springs in the front. The 1960 has a cross-member that is about 2 to 3 inches from the oil pan. Your frame looks great!
Last edited by Bornco; 09/14/20256:07 PM. Reason: added more details
Here are some pictures of the room I have between the engine and cross-member... There isn't that much room I would assume the room would be similar to other years of trucks... I'm looking for someone who has experienced replacing the oil pan gaskets in a similar situation.
AI and another chevy forum says the steering linkage has to be moved out of the way and the engine has to be lifted off it's mounts to make room for the pan removal.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I've found that a simple way to lift an engine for pulling the oil pan is to place a padded 4X4 wood post across the fenders, and use a heavy duty ratchet strap as a lifting device. Use the intake manifold or the rocker arm shaft as a lift point. That allows the vehicle to be moved if necessary while the engine is suspended. Ditto for removing/installing a SM 420 transmission- - - - -open both doors and put an 8 foot 4X4 through the window openings. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
OK... I took two 4x6 and two 4x4 short pieces to distribute the weight on the fenders using rags to prevent scratching, then I used two 2x6s (because they were long enough) across. I did not have a strap I would trust, so I used a come-a-long with a short piece of chain around the lower pulley on the crank. Unbolted the front engine mount (This year only has the 1 mount in the front and 2 in the rear on the bell housing). I lifted it about 1.5 inches (just above the engine mount bolts coming out of the holes on the frame), and the pan came right out.
Here is a pic of the wood and come-a-long. Hopes this helps someone! Thanks for the idea!!!
