The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Advice on pulling a 235

As the title says, we're looking for some tips and advice on pulling the 235 out of the bus. Winter is approaching and the boy needs a project to work on for his schooling during the winter. Since I can't fit the bus in the garage, we thought we'd fit the most immediate problem instead.

While I hope we won't need to do a complete overhaul, we would like to go over everything, clean it, tune it, paint it, put it back. But we'll also have the pan and covers off so we can check the overall health of the engine.

It looks like to remove the engine it needs to come straight up into the cab of the bus and out the side door. I think I have easy reach with an engine hoist through the door, though I'm not sure I'll have the height. We'll see.

(MAIN QUESTION) Anyways, the crux of it, what are tips, warnings, and advice on pulling this?

If I have read up correctly the trans and block stay together and come out in one piece. But what are the proper lifting points on this? Anything to be careful of?

The last engine I helped pull was a Chevy 350 out of a truck with the front clip off so it was not much of an event. I just want to cover all the bases and hopefully keep the number of surprises low.

Thanks

FatTony - I took a screenshot and included it below of your engine in its current home from your Welcome Center post so folks can get an idea of what the current situation looks like.

It looks like it may be a tough cookie to crack in pulling that out. Looking at the picture, I'm not sure you have enough clearance to lift up and out. Definitely not with the bell housing and transmission still attached as there is just not enough clearance through that shoe box opening.

If you do go the up and out route, I would suggest removal of all peripheral components; manifolds, starter, generator, possibly even the distributor and water pump to minimize the engine footprint. I think too you will need to pull the transmission, bellhousing and flywheel (while supporting the engine with your lift, before doing the up and out move.

Perhaps you can provide pictures of the front end of the bus, outside and underneath, to see if there is a way to better access and pull the engine in a different way?

Your engine install is similar to a "Dubl Duti" "Forward Control" deliver van (1951 versions pictured below) and checking on how those are removed may provide some helpful insight.

Others should be along to offer further suggestions soon.

Hy FatTony, without a picture of the engines location relative to the bus floor, I can only make suggestions based on removing an engine from a "P" van. Firstly I would remove the transmission from the engine to make the engine as small as possible and more maneuverable. If you are concerned about height remove the carburetor and chain your lift as close as possible to the valve cover, but leave enough room to turn the engine if you have to. You said you have the pan off, if you remove the oil pump as well it will give you more room, good luck, slow and careful!

They started with an engine, and built a bus around it!

I’d say GDads and 3B are probably on the right track.

Another thought if you don’t have enough height or reach with the cherry picker - construct some sort of a-frame through the door openings….and use a chain hoist.

Getting the engine UP would not be a hard thing with that sort of set up. Getting it OVER, might be.

Whatever you do, be safe. These things are no-joke heavy and awkward.

Ditto on stripping the engine down to bare bones before trying to lift it, possibly even pulling the cylinder head to minimize the height of the short block and reducing the weight by close to 100 pounds. Given the difficulty of a "remove and reinstall" I'd recommend a full rebuild before going to all that work, instead of putting an engine of unknown condition back in.
Jerry

That picture that Dan posted looks pretty restricted. I'm wondering if you might even have to remove the clutch, flywheel and bell housing to fit it thru that tiny hole.

Is the axle below the engine? Maybe it's possible to drop the engine down and get it out that way.

Sorry guys. I thought I had put up some updated photos. I'll include a bunch I took today at lunch.

You'll see there is a plate around the gearshift, that comes off as you can see in the next photo. Then there is the bottom rear little section of the doghouse. That detaches. I didn't have the correct wrench so I could take it off today. Then I've got some pictures showing the clearance around the engine. The only two spots that are close are the carb and intake, and then the starter and bellhousing interfere just a little on the one corner. Good room on the front, lots of room around the trans.

The only thing I am worried about is getting the height. But I think if I get the hoist as far down to the valve cover as I can while still allowing room to turn we can get it up the foot and half I think it needs.

I put a couple photos from the door as well. I'll have to take out the passenger seat to get the right line but that's easy. And the door is nice and wide to pull it out.
I thought it came out through the front as well so I took the grill off. There is a small section of the body at the bottom behind the bumper that looks like it comes off. But I just don't think I could angle the engine enough to slide it out under the main clip. I put some picture of that as well. There is the axle and a cross member in the way and I would have to tip the engine nose down about 45 degrees and even then there might not be room.

One thing I thought of when I got the plate off is that park brake. Does it stay with the trans or with the driveline?

I was thinking along Kevin's lines.

Raise the truck and lower the engine.

That gearshift position is wild. You have to reach backward without even seeing the knob/lever.

So there is a "notch" for the bell housing.

As far as getting close to the engine with your hoist, you could use the rocker bolts with an engine leveler like I built from an old trailer tongue jack for my 216 (see pics). Works slick. Lift a bit, tilt by turning the jack bolt, lift some more, etc. The only difference is you'd have to remove a couple bolts from the rocker stands to bolt on to. Not a huge deal.

Alternatively, you could fab a couple of plates and use head bolts for lifting points.

So taking a closer look at your latest pictures, it kinda looks like the rear of the doghouse "panel" (enclosed in the red rectangle) in this copy of your picture seems to be removable? If that's the case, it simplifies your engine removal, allowing you to also pull the bell housing and transmission still attached to the engine in one lift.

Finding a lifting balance point to pull the entire assembly will take a little trial and error, but it looks doable. I still suggest you should remove peripheral stuff like the manifolds, starter, generator, water pump/fan and even the thermostat housing with attached coolant fittings/lines. You don't want to damage any of that stuff because it got snagged or bumped against a tight spot and got broken.

On the parking brake assembly, it could remain attached, but it could also be removed to reduce the load and add a little more clearance for removal.

That looks like a serious character-builder. Sanctifying.

May the force be with you.

It would be possible to gain a few inches of lift by removing the rocker arm shaft and bolting a couple of pieces of angle iron to the head with the rocker stand holes. Removing the parking brake assembly would also lighten up the weight and give you a little more wiggle room fore and aft. Definitely pull the radiator- - - - -one OOPS could put a big hole in it!

I know, right? Weirdly feels great. When you are in the drivers seat, that shift knob is right beside your hip at just the right height to drop your hand down and shift. Shift pattern seems fairly tight so it doesn't take a lot of movement. Kind of cool. Just a pity the boy wants to eventually swap an automatic in. (New generation, I tell you what.)


It is. I would have removed it at lunch but it is a weird socket size. Maybe got swapped to a metric along the way. 7/16 was too small, 1/2 was too big. I'll get my metric set tomorrow. And I will definitely be taking the peripherals off first.

That's genius. I was going to order one but I think that is actually better than the cheap load levelers you see out there. And I might have one of those jacks kicking around.

Thanks to everyone chiming in so far. I appreciate the advice.

Good job for a fork lift. I most never remove an engine and trans together. Too long and too heavy.

Here is what the shop manual says. Pull engine with tranny attached. Not a good idea.