Much importance is placed on the disk which is pressed into the block 1” from water pump opening. I suspect that the disk has been missing for many years in my 1935 Chev 1 1/2 ton 207CID. Due to corrosion in water jacket, there isn’t much left to press new disk into. I see no option other than JB weld to hold it in place.
Punch - I'm at a bit of a loss on what hole you are mentioning in relation to the water pump opening??? Your water pump hole is clearly visible, but I'm not seeing a hole needing a "disk" (core plug seal) in your photo. Please provide a wider view picture and if possible an indicator on the "hole" in question.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
1935 WATER PUMP BAFFLE PLATE Item ID: AF-254 Make: Chevrolet This water pump baffle plate is installed in the block behind the water pump and is necessary for proper water pump efficiency. Many times this piece is rusted out or missing. Check it each time the water pump is removed! Fits all 1935 Chevrolet cars & trucks. Replaces GM# 837611
This part fits most 1935 Chevrolet Cars and Trucks.; exceptions may apply. Please read the complete description to see if this part fits your specific vehicle and application.
This is the article from which I learned about this. I would have bolted the pump on and never gave it a second thought. I’ve ordered this “brass baffle” to install. However from what I see corrosion has has eaten away at the cast iron rim to which this disc would be pressed into.
Clean up the cast iron and JBweld that sucker in place. I believe it's in there to reduce slippage behind the vanes of the water pump. Excess clearance behind the vanes would definitely reduce the efficiency of the water pump.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
For future reference, here's the link to the Filling Station offered AF-254 Baffle Plate and a screenshot of the plate below. Thanks for the resource info Pre '68 Dave.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I'd suggest using a ROLOC sanding disc to smooth out the rough casting, and making a thicker brass disc to minimize the clearance to the water pump vanes. Use Devcon epoxy steel or Marine Tex to attach it to the block.
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Your water pump hole is clearly visible, but I'm not seeing a hole needing a "disk" (core plug seal) in your photo. Please provide a wider view picture and if possible an indicator on the "hole" in question.
