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Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 15
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 15
Hi Bolters. I just had a stupendous find today and had to jump on and share. It's Labor Day long weekend here in Canada and that means camping for us. But it also means a visit to a dump/scrapyard. We're like scavenger crows. After a couple of cool little finds here and there, I come across and frame and chassis from what I originally thought might be a cab over box truck. I saw the power steering box and thought maybe I could take that for the Prevost/Stovebolt, (Prevolt?? Still workshopping the name.) Then my buddy comes over and points out the place where steps may have been and some other indications that this was in fact the remains of a Winnebago style motor home.

Some synapsis and neurons fired in the old noggin and I ran to the truck to grab a tape measure. Yup. 10X7.25.

Couldn't quite measure accurately since the hubs and the tire fill line brackets were in the way. We headed home, dumped the camping gear, turned and burned, laden with jack-alls, battery impacts, sawzall, grinder etc.
Had the wheels off and loaded in the trailer in under an hour. Good shape, need a little wire wheel and new paint, but I can swap out the original 20" danger circles with more modern 19.5 solid wheels. They'll likely need new rubber but who cares. As far as I'm concerned that's $1800 we don't need to spend on wheels.

Since I had the tools, I also grabbed the steering box and the hydroboost. I'm sure down the road I'll be looking through the forums for help on possible retro fits there.

And now my long winded rambling release of excitement comes down to my actual question for tonight. This motorhome had 4 wheel disc brakes. I am attaching a photo of the rear axle and the front hub and knuckle.

Should I go back and get said axles etc for a possible disc brake swap? Is there even a remote possibility that things might fit the front spindles? The wreck is ball joint front end so I won't be using the A-arms or anything, but maybe the calipers, bracket and so on.

And as for the rear axle, I was thinking of grinder the rivets of the spring hangers and taking the entire thing wholesale.

What do you all think?
Attachments
IMG_20250901_181335.jpg (530.39 KB, 108 downloads)
IMG_20250901_181307.jpg (244 KB, 106 downloads)
IMG_20250901_181246.jpg (586.99 KB, 107 downloads)
IMG_20250901_181331.jpg (504.94 KB, 107 downloads)
IMG_20250901_190505.jpg (615.31 KB, 109 downloads)


Fernie Fat Tony
1954 Prevost Bus on Chevy Big Bolt chassis, engine and driveline.
A Big Bolt in disguise.
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,389
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,389
FatTony - Congrats on your find! thumbs_up

Here's an old detailed and extensive thread from long time Stovebolter Grigg on Disc Brake conversion for Big Bolts front axles.

Unfortunately the picture links are long ago dead, but perhaps Grigg still has them stashed somewhere and can repost them???

Here's a newer thread on a similar thought process from TUTS 59 on his 1958 4400 front brakes.

Anyhow, these are great starting points for you to see whats been done in the past, for the front brakes. On the rear axle/brake question, I'm pretty sure someone has either considered or attempted this swap out, but at the moment I can't seem to find the links to any of those threads.

Others should be along soon to add more info and experiences. smile


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
Follow this story in the DITY Gallery
"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
FatTony, I have the same rear axle under my '58 4400 (Thor). The unfortunate thing is the front hubs won't work with the front spindles on the older axles. The good news is the rear axle bolts right in place. I used the Hydrobooster and master cylinder as well, I had to fab up a bracket but that's doable. I would say go for the rear axle, mine turned out to be a 4.88 ratio.

Shop around for tires, I paid $110.00 (US) a piece for the 8R/19.5's on my front end. The rears were more money but not bad at $229.00 each for 225/70R/19.5. they are 10 ply rated.

Last edited by TUTS 59; 09/02/2025 3:59 PM. Reason: add content

~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 15
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 15
Thanks Craig, I'll have a look at your thread on Thor and that axle swap. Though I can't tell what it was as it is only a frame and axles I think it may have been the same or similar model of motorhome.

I was thinking of grinding the hanger rivets and taking the whole thing, leaf packs and all. From the look of it you just took the axle. I don't have the thing at my house to take parts as I need so maybe I should take the driveshaft as well?


Fernie Fat Tony
1954 Prevost Bus on Chevy Big Bolt chassis, engine and driveline.
A Big Bolt in disguise.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
I would take the driveshaft, the Yoke is larger the the original. You should take the carrier bearing and mount. The driveshaft was a multi piece and much longer than what I needed, or so I thought. I wound up cutting one section of the driveshaft to use as the front section, I cut and welded the shaft to the length I needed. I had to fab up a Yoke for the transmission end as well.
Attachments
IMG_20240401_102242 (1).jpg (118.73 KB, 70 downloads)
Driveshaft 1
IMG_20240401_102242.jpg (144.49 KB, 70 downloads)
Driveshaft 2
IMG_20240401_102219.jpg (384.98 KB, 71 downloads)
Driveshaft 3
IMG_20240401_102202.jpg (126.34 KB, 71 downloads)
Driveshaft 4
IMG_20240401_102350 (3).jpg (135.14 KB, 71 downloads)
Carrier Bearing Mount 1
IMG_20240401_102351.jpg (116.24 KB, 71 downloads)
Carrier Bearing Mount 2
IMG_20240401_102203.jpg (142.16 KB, 71 downloads)
Carrier Bearing Mount 3
38dcbcde-b501-4f8c-87dc-229470fce251.jpg (218.12 KB, 71 downloads)
Front Yoke 1
IMG_20240316_171452.jpg (242.8 KB, 71 downloads)
Front Yoke 2
IMG_20240316_171551.jpg (289.67 KB, 71 downloads)
Front Yoke 3

Last edited by TUTS 59; 09/03/2025 12:07 PM. Reason: Add Images

~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 389
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 389
The ball joints front end looks like it's just bolted onto the frame. How difficult/impossible would it be to simply drop that crossmember and then bolt it onto the front of the old frame? I wonder how different the frame rail widths would be.

I don't wonder how much better the rig would drive, steer, and stop with that modern suspension under it though. Plus sway bar!


1965 C60 school bus | 1967 GMC 6500 school bus
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 124
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 124
They are very close a friend of mine just did this conversion with a C30 cradle and said it's not difficult at all. I'm fixing to do one on one of my GMC's. I will try to remember to take pics when I get started on the project.

Last edited by John L.; 09/11/2025 2:36 PM.
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 389
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 389
That sounds awesome, and like a lot less work than a full frame swap.


1965 C60 school bus | 1967 GMC 6500 school bus

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