The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Bleeding 3800 brakes

I have a question before I even start the brake bleeding process. I noticed that the bleeder screws don’t have the typical nipples to attach a bleeder hose to. Is there something that attaches to the bleeder hose itself that screws into the screw on the wheel cylinder? This is a’49 chev 3800. Thanks for any info!

I think you just crack it and have helper step on the pedal, then close it when fluid stops squirting out. Repeat til you stop seeing air bubbles. Don't forget to check the master cylinder fluid level periodically!

I think I'd replace the bleeders with ones having nipples on them for the hose, which should end under the level of the fluid in a catch container. That minimizes the potential for air to be sucked back in when your helper lets off on the pedal. Without a clear hose on it, it's hard to see air bubbles.

Thanks to all for the information!

Rubi -- I think Tronman meant to say that you close off the bleeder just *before* it stops squirting fluid.

At anyrate, having done this more than once on my 3804 ... You *do* want to replace your bleeders with the barbed ones (to get a hose on). Not only can you prevent a mess on the shop floor and stop sucking air back into the line, you can also reuse that fluid (once the air bubbles evacuate themselves ... and the fluid is still good and not nasty).

If an assistant to pump the brake pedal for you is not available, as in my case, you may find spending about $60 on a power bleeder to be a help. I use one made by Motive Products with the adapter to fit the AD truck brake reservoir. It really makes brake bleeding easy, quick and *almost* fun.

Good point on when to close the bleeder, to keep from inadvertently drawing any air back in. Also yeah, would be better to replace the fittings with barbed ones. Although I can say I've never reused brake fluid even if it looked OK. One of its functions is carrying minute bits of rust and rubber, and out that all goes along with fluid when you bleed it. Fluid's cheap, brake parts aren't.

My trick was to get a donor master cylinder fluid cap. Drilled a hole and tapped it so a air chuck filleting would screw in. Set my compressor regulator to minimum pressure and opened the bleeder on the brake cylinder. After each cylinder, recheck fluid.
Jim

I have put speed bleeders on my truck and made the process so much easier without an assistant.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

I gravity bled each wheel in turn when I rebuilt the brakes on my 54 3100. I used a new master cylinder, new lines and wheel cylinders that I had rebuilt. Opened the left rear first and watched for fluid while I did something else. Took about 10 minutes for fluid to come out and I closed off the nipple and opened the other rear cylinder. Only took a few minutes for that one to drip. Again on the front cylinders, longer line first. Kept the reservoir full throughout the process. Had full firm pedal without any squishiness. Never did have to bleed individual cylinders and I still have full pedal and stopping power two years and 4000 miles later.

1954 Chev 3800 flat bed, I have the best assistant, my wife she climbs into the truck with her knitting I raise her up on my lift. She knits until I am ready, I give the command push the peddle in, them release. Brake bleeding easy, and we are all happy.
Richard

Like KP06 said, those speed bleeders are great. I used them on my 1946 3/4 ton recently and will get another set for my 1950 1 ton soon. Easy to use and no air gets pulled back into the system.

Tom