What Radiator are you using in your 2-ton trucks? My 1955 6700 Bus has a 1966 327 engine. The radiator might be original, I don’t know. The radiator is stamped Harrison 3133708 and R-13 55D. The core measures 20” high, 23 ¾” wide, and 2 ½” thick. Inlet measures 1 ½” and is in the center. Outlet is 1 ¾” and is on the passenger side. I went to a radiator shop hoping they had something, but they didn’t. I haven’t found any information on the 3133708.
I searched forum posts and found someone use a radiator from LMC.
LMC has one listed 23 ¼ wide for 55-59 @ $399.95 With shipping and tax that’s $500.
Harrison was the OEM for GM 70 years ago. Aluminum radiators transfer more heat than brass. A 3 Row aluminum radiator would cool better than the original. I'm not familiar with Chev. With GMC the only difference in pickup and truck radiators is the thickness of the core.
I had my original radiator recored by a local shop. I was definitely more money, but I knew it would mount correctly and that the shroud would fit.
The Shop owner offered to buy my radiator if I decided to go with an aluminum aftermarket style. He said the originals are hard to come by.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
I’m just guessing the date code might be the number under the R-* number. Your tank has 57 L for your ‘58 Viking, My tank has 55 D for my ‘55 bus.
I took the radiator to a repair shop and went back a few days later to check on it. It was in the rework area waiting to be checked. Since I was there they checked it out. The leak test revealed leaks between tanks and core. There were some previous patches on the core that were not leaking. Pat used the side of a hammer to gently rap on the core and determined the core was not rotten. He suggested it could be reworked. He then proceeded to remove the frame and the top tank to get a look inside. Fragments of a hose coil were inside. I suggested the bus may have sat for years as the coil deteriorated and then ran, pushing the bits into the radiator. He said he would ream the tubes from the bottom to clear the clog. After the top tank was removed he pointed out the shiny solder on the core, and the dull or rusty points that revealed leaks. The plan is to clean it up and reassemble using what is there.
I think you will happier with the original rather than an aftermarket replacement. The radiator will fit just as it did prior to being repaired and you won't need to fuss around with it getting it to mount. The other thing is you helped out a local Mom and Pop business, that's always a plus. Great Pics!
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
Walter it looks like it was well worth the wait! On to the next step in the project.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
In keeping with the topic of this thread I’ll try to sneak a pic of the bus in, but I’ll start another thread about the bus. I spent some time in the back of the local auto parts store looking at hoses. I found a couple that could work with the 1966 327 to the 1955 radiator. I move slow, but I put the lower hose on this evening. It could have been trimmed an inch or so, but it fit as is. When I get to the upper hose, that will be cut to length. Is it measure once, cut twice?