How do I remove this without tearing something up? Is it just pressed on? This is what I assume since it's keyed but it's better to ask since I don't know.
Id like to mail this out to Oregon camshaft next week and I don't figure I need to leave it on.
Daniel - Yes it's pressed on. This pretty old on topic thread provides several pointers on how to do the removal yourself, if you have a press. I know someone suggest using a torch to heat the gear and the cam may just drop out, but I've never successfully done that myself. Others with more recent knowledge and work should be along soon to offer their input.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Be very careful not to damage the thrust plate behind the gear as you press the gear off. It's also possible to drill and tap a couple of holes in the gear and use a bolt-on puller like one for a harmonic balancer to remove the gear- - - - -and it doesn't prevent the gear from being reused if you want to. I never reuse a timing gear, however- - - -new ones aren't that expensive. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Also, please be certain to press the new one on as far as you can get it to go. You want very little clearance between the gear and the thrust plate...something like .001" is great and the thrust plate ought to have a ridge to ensure this occurs. If you leave too much clearance it will allow your cam gear to run in/out at idle. It sets up a sort of bouncing motion that steadies out somewhere above 1000 rpm and that motion will alter your distributor timing enough to cause a rougher than normal idle.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I was able to rig up this setup to pull it off. I'll take the suggestion to replace the timing gear since I didn't realize it was originally aluminum. I took caution to clear the thrust plate of the washers and nuts.
I believe the factory manual specifies the clearance between the cam and retainer. As I recall, it's more than 0.001, more like 0.010. You have to account for the aluminum gear expanding at a different rate than the steel cam and retainer.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
