I beleive the typical parts you can buy from the normal sources are basically a cardboard box. Has anyone developed a template for a sheet metal version?
Seems like it would be easy enough to fabricate. I understand that it doesn't need to be metal for strength but it seems like it would be a viable alternative.
I need to have something to keep things like the registration and insurance papers in.
I haven't made a template for sheet metal glovebox, but have an original cardboard one that could be used. I think it'd be easy enough to cut the sheet metal, but making the opening correct for attachment to the dash might be a challenge. The cardboard ones can flex a bit when installing. I'm not thinking there would be enough demand for a sheet metal box. I realize it would be more secure than the cardboard one, but who's going to steal your registration and insurance from your truck? I still believe people are basically honest and wouldn't do that.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I made a fibreglass glove box liner years ago and just recently put a delux heater in the truck and it was a little tight getting back in so I trimmed it a little and patched it up ,it worked good painted it black and don’t have to worry about cardboard
I've never had a cop ask for the registration, ever. That's only on TV. Your current license plate and sticker are proof of valid registration.
In Georgia you can keep your license and insurance docs on your phone instead of papaer copies.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Maybe now with all the fancy computer in the cars but back a few years it was always drivers licence registration and insurance please and if you did not have it you were opening up to a possible ticket .Also a way to verify that it is the correct plated registered vehicle .
Sorry if we're getting off the subject but If your glove box door has a lock and it works, why not just do that? I really don't think the registration and insurance papers are really in that much demand from the local car break in group. Also keep in mind that there are other places in the cab that one could keep these docs hidden at.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Nothing to do with theft of the papers although it is a pita to replace if someone rummages through and usually they like to take them and scatter them down the street but my point was to Otto that in my neck of the woods the cops always ask for the documents.
My truck papers are in a sandwich ziplok bag in the truck owner's manual in a stock cardboard glovebox. Will say, knowing what it takes to install or remove a stock glovebox, it would be a challenge to install or remove a metal glovebox.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
WICruiser if you have the round heater you should have no problem but if you have the delux style heater you would have to maybe make a cardboard one or use the old one for a good template weather you use steel or glass .You could make a liner box not as deep as the origional so you would have a easier time fitting it .I also think yours is a little different than mine as mine just screws onto the dash using clips were as yours I think has a metal trim that goes around it
I have the Deluxe style heater. I do not have anything currently other than the door with its hinges and the lock/latch I removed from a second dash assembly that came with my truck. I beleive there is evidence of screws around the perimeter to retain the box.
I may just leave it out for now, or I may make a cardboard mock up to see what would fit.
HVAC sheet metal is like 26 ga, so if you made it from that using a template of the original, it would probably flex and bend enough to install pretty easy. The original screws would also most likely be usable to hold it, too.
Mine was in bad shape and I used duct tape to hold it together then coated with Vaseline then covered it with fibreglass .I think if you can get a accurate shape around we’re it attaches to the opening of the dash then the shape of the rest does not matter much as long as you have room for your heater.
Maybe you saw it, but up a few posts I've started a thread on how to make your own cowlboard using floor protector paper and PVA glue (school glue). 4 layers laminated and sealed with polycrylic Minwax water-based finish is tougher and thicker than the original cowlboard. I suppose if you wanted to you could laminate them using fiberglass resin / hardener or maybe something like polyurethane. It might be more messy, though and certainly more costly. I used a glove box I made to duplicate the original about 50 years ago and altered it so as to be shorter, not have the weird sloping part on the right hand side and with a cutout/shroud in the right rear to allow an ac & heat duct. Since it was designed to install from the front, I left it a bit more flexible and added some hanger strap, screws and screw nut things...so I can get it in easier. Are you talking about making a metal one to duplicate the original box? With heaters in place, I think most of those were installed from the front also. There just wasn't always enough room to go in from the back side. I could probably make a pattern for you. I'll attach some pictures...the old one first and the new one second. Around DFW the harder it is to get into your glove box the more damage is going to be done making that happen.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Jon G, thanks for the information. I have seen your post regarding cowlboard and considering that approach but also considering thin sheet metal. I did receive a used, sad condition box from a fellow Bolter that I am thinking I will use as a pattern.
50 years ago the junk yards around here had plenty of old cars. Today high rise apartments occupy that land, but that is another discussion. I deconstructed a glove box I may have paid a couple of dollars for. Please tell me if you have questions. I may (emphasize the word may) still have that old glove box in the attic. At any rate, here is a look at the dimensions of the known good box (I'd be still using it if not for the A/C unit because it is still okay). Depth of the box from front to back = 9 inches Top part is where the split of the box is and the top part is made up of two trapezium shapes. The left hand part is 6 3/4" x 9" x 6" and the right hand part is 6 3/4 x 9" x 6 1/8" and the right hand part overlaps the left hand part and is stapled & glued. At the left edge of the left top part there are two 9/16" cuts made to allow the box to bend into more/less a curve and then there is a trapezoid shaped piece formed on the left vertical edge. That piece is 4" x 2.5" and also 9" deep. It has a cutout for the hinge screws which is 2 1/4" by 1/2". At the bottom of that trapezoid are two more 9/16" cuts to allow a curve to be formed and that leads to the bottom piece which is 12 3/8" x 8 3/8" x 9 inches deep...another trapezium shape. At the edge of the bottom another trapezium is formed by cuts in the cowlboard and it is 3/4" x 4 1/2" by 9 inches deep. That takes us to the other vertical side which as you might expect is yet another trapezium formed by cuts in the cowlboard. This one is 3 1/2" x 7/8" and 9 inches deep. On the side of that are the same 2 9/16" cuts to allow a curve to be formed and those of course are connected to the right hand side of the top piece. Some images are shown below. The back side was made by tracing the shape onto the cowl board from the outside and making slits to allow the cowlboard over by about 5/8". There is also on the left hand side a cutout for the hinge screws and at the top there is a cutout for the latching mechanism.
If you or anyone else wants to use this to make an AD glove box, I would suggest saving cereal boxes for the cardboard or just using cardstock or other heavy paper. Cut each piece as I've indicated and use masking tape to hold them together. When all together, this will make a piece that looks sort of like a smile. When you cut out your piece from the cowlboard or whatever material you're using, then use a good ruler and razor blade to cut shallow lines to allow the bends. Hope it helps somebody.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
As previously mentioned, the new box I made did away with the odd sloping angles and all but I did make it so the rear part is smaller than the front part (to allow it to be installed from the front---the glove box opening on the dashboard) and also like the old box I sloped the vertical sides inward for the same reason.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end