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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Aug 2016 Posts: 84 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2016 Posts: 84 | 1947 Chevrolet 3100: I have to either buy a new brake master cylinder or rebuild the one I have. Obviously, the rebuild is much cheaper. Any of you care to share your thoughts on rebuilding?
Thanks, ray durham | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 765 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 765 | I found rebuilding my '46 master cylinder very easy. I watched a few YouTube videos to build my confidence.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engineHere We GoFollow in his DITY Bay- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 5,684 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 5,684 | Is your MC the original unit (or at least an old OEM replacement)? If so rebuild it or save it and do it in the future and buy a brand new unit.
I bought a brand new Dynamic Friction MC for Ol' Roy from Rock Auto for $40 a few years ago and have had no problems. Hard to beat $40 out of the box versus rebuilding the old one. I saved the original mc to rebuild at a future date.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2024 Posts: 64 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2024 Posts: 64 | I recently rebuild my MC in my ‘55, pretty easy. All you need is the kit and brake cylinder hone. Go for it.
Geoff
1955 2nd Series 3600 235 cid, 4 sp. - Current
1979 Chevy K10 350 cid 4 sp -Sold
1955 2nd Series Wide Window 283 cid 3 sp - Totaled
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 4,392 Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT | | Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 4,392 | Ray - I would suggest you disassemble the MC and inspect the bore. If it's not rust pitted, it's relatively easy to hone and install a rebuild kit, which are readily available. If you have pitting, the right way to rebuild is to have it sleeved (if you don't have the ability to do that yourself). This allows you to save/reuse your existing MC (now or later).
If your needing it sooner than later, I would go with Otto's suggestion to buy a new one. Then at your leisure you can decide what to do with the old one.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100Follow this story in the DITY Gallery"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2023 Posts: 12 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2023 Posts: 12 | I agree with Otto, I recently replaced my original Delco made in the USA (embossed on the bore) master cylinder with an after market. I'm keeping the original for when I have nothing better to do but rebuild it. So it depends on what's important for you now. If you want it running asap, grab quick after market (my new one is Dynamic Friction also), if you have time and patience, rebuild it and keep it original. Just my 2 cents. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 5,684 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 5,684 | The Dynamic Friction MC isn't the same quality as the original made in USA unit but it wasn't bad. I de-burred some of the threads and cleaned some flash out of it but otherwise it's pretty good. I flushed it thoroughly before I installed it. I can't can't argue with the results. 4000 or so miles later it still stops the truck without any drama.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2019 Posts: 407 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2019 Posts: 407 | Mine was too pitted to rebuild without a sleeve. Check that first. The ‘37 gets pricey but had to ante up. Over 100 even at Rock auto, others around 150.
Larry
Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY.
If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
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