The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton -- Working on my project since 2015

I’ve owned this red 1953 Chevy 3/4-ton truck for about 19 years. I learn and do everything I can myself. I joined Stovebolt back in 2015 as I worked on the project. So I was always looking for advice on what I really need to do and how to move forward. I’m over 70 and going as hard as I can. I was so glad to be on the forum!

The truck is a 4 speed in the floor, ignition switch in the dash, no radio. Has blinker and brake lights. Some original instruments work. Three were added on and put into the dash.

The bed had wood over a sheet metal. The wood got so bad I removed it and now she has just the metal bed which I like fine!

The first thing I did was get the clutch working. The pressure plate had stuck together. A screwdriver fixed that!

Next I replaced the very wide wheels with black wall standard size with new aluminum rims. This helped with the steering.

I replaced all the glass with gray tented, other than the back. It is a one window in the back.

She was throwing oil out all over the place, using a quart of oil in 45 minutes! There were two air vac ports on the valve cover, one was being used at the carburetor, the other was just plugged off. One day I removed the plugged off one and walla, she stopped using oil!

It has a flat 6 cylinder Chevy engine. I was not sure of the size then but I was told it looks like it came out of an early 70's Camaro. I ended up replacing it since it was worn beyond specs. So, now it has the same type motor that it had in it -- an overhauled IL 6 Chevy 250, 4 in the floor.

Next I pulled the original old seat out and did a basic upholster job, using a piece of plywood under so my butt would not sink into the springs. Now it is too bouncy on dirt roads! So that was my next improvement I wanted to do.

Problem with the steering. When driving over 45 and hit large bumps, the wheels would go one way then the other (over steering problem) dangerous if passing traffic. I put an anti sway bar on her. Seemed to fix that big issue!

I kept having problems with the brakes. They had to be pumped up and they pull prior to pumping up. I bled them and repaired a slave cylinder on the right. I repaired the driver side one (it was leaking) and it does better. No longer pulls much but still requires one pump.

While observing the master cylinder, I keep seeing small bubbles come up after compressing the brake and releasing. Just don't know where they are coming from?

I put a new clutch in last year.

It came to my attention that the right side of my cab was low so I had to figure out why. I removed the carpet etc. that I put in a couple of years back. Removed the piece-meal tin floor, numerous screws, foot boards to find a lot of rusted and missing metal. Both front side bolts that hold the floor down were essentially fused together with rust.

So I began my journey to learn how to MIG weld & cut metal.

I found a good source for sheet metal nearby and began measuring, cutting and seeking advice.

At this point I have a 16 ga floor pan and foot board ready to install.

The right front side panel had also collapsed. I was going to just re-cover the inside with a fabricated panel, cover the rusted holes, kill the rust and move on with it.

My friends on the forums advise me to replace all of the cowling side panel (3 on each side). More thinking, figuring and work! I’ll be glad to post some pictures.

So I’m looking for advice on what I really need to do and how to move forward.

These folks on these forums have always helped me so much, sometimes scolding me. I can handle it.

More pictures of progress.

The rear half of the floorboard is solid so I’m letting my new fabricated one set on it and plan to drill holes & place screws around it. I have treated all of the rust and removed the really bad stuff. I’m thinking I’ll not weld any of the floorboard to any other parts but put screws in them then use some kind of caulk sealer on the seams?
First to begin focusing on the side panels. I don’t know where to begin because I work on the floor with jacks & I don’t want to remove the fenders.
Question, does the side panels support the cab?
I welded 2 pieces of angle iron from the bottom of the old battery case to the bottom of the edge of the floor beside of the door. That is holding the cab up & level.
I’ll post a picture of that.

I've always wanted to get a MIG welder, but I've been lucky to have a neighbor that welds. Looks like you have things figured out. For me - I'd remove as much rust as possible. Seems it always wants to come back.

Just my opinion Glenn, but attaching patches over the severely rusted out sections with screws and some seam sealer isn't going to give you any lasting and necessary structure to your cab. It might look ok standing still, but when you start to drive it, things are going to start moving/flexing and coming apart pretty rapidly. I would say X2 for the previous guidance on replacing and welding in new metal after cutting back the rotten stuff. Others have suggested that when you fit and position the new panels, temporarily using screws to hold things in place before welding is a good idea as it allows you to double check fit of adjacent parts, doors, etc. before welding to restore the strength and form to your cab.

Using screws to hold things together permanently is a recipe for disaster waiting to happen.

I'd second what Dan said. Sandwiched areas are places where rust loves to hang out and grow. Even if you sandblasted all the rust out, moisture will get in there and rust will start to grow again.

The floor should be welded to everything around it, as should the cowl panels. They all contribute to the structural strength. Think of a cardboard box with the flaps just folded over and not taped. It'll flex big time, and you don't want your cab doing that. Fabricating your floor out of 16 gauge like you did is fine - a little overkill - but it does need to be welded in.

Thanks guys. I’ll defiantly do some tacking.

Quick question. How do the bolt, washers, rubber cushion go on. Specifically does a rubber insulator go between the cab frame & the body frame, like where I have this pry bar positioned.
Thanks!

Yes. The bolt goes in the depression in the floor with a dished washer, then a rubber pad between cab and frame and then washer and nut underneath.

Thanks, I just watched a YouTube video from Brothers Parts.

The more I move the more I find things aren’t simple as I’d think!
I got what was supposed to be the rocker panel but is too long & has one angled part. It came from EMS products. It’s just sitting on the running board supports for view.
I ordered one from LMC, hopefully it will look better than this one plus it has all the parts & screws!
Then I’ll figure how to put it on. I’m thinking I’ll need to cut the old one off & weld the new one on?

Yeah, I don't know of any part of an AD truck that looks like that. I'd send it back with a strongly worded letter.
Yes, the original is welded in, so you'll need to cut it off and weld the new one in place. Be careful on the location. You need to be 100% sure that the door opening dimension is maintained as original. If you have a Factory Assembly Manual, there's a dimension that locates the front of the rocker panel from the front of the dash. That magic dimension is 8.47 inches and appears on Section 1, Sheet 1.07 right near the fender mounting hole marked with a "2" in a circle.

I’d have never found that! Still don’t know how to utilize that information!
I’ll keep looking.
Thanks!

I found EMS Auto and it looks like they don't carry much in the way of Chevy truck parts. I browsed around a bit but didn't see anything that looks like what they sent you.

While I’m thinking about it, does this truck (53 , 3100) have a tub type thing that the seat should mount in? I see it in some pictures. Mine dies not. The seat legs bolt strait on the floor.

In order to replace my Px rocker panel I’m going to dig in pretty deep. I may need to replace some floor supports. I think the book calls it a cross seal? In LMC I think it’s called cab floor support, # 9 under interior body support panels.
I could use more metal strips support pieces (that normally go around the edge of the floor panels but I don’t see anything like them. Mine are rusted off as they near the foot panel.

I had to eat that ems piece. Not worth returning for shipping. The lmc panel looks great!

Yes, there is a seat riser that the seat frame sits on and is bolted to. Here is a photo of my ‘52 which is exactly like your ‘53.

Glenn has done a great job with his red truck. If this thread seems a little "light," you may want to check some of the other threads he's started as he continued(s) to look for "advice and input." Much to be proud of as he's doing it himself! A real DIY!

Thank you Peggy. Still at it!

Thank you Peggy. Still at it!
So mine bolts directly to the floor. I guess this is OK?!

I’m spending lots of time looking, feeling & thinking about how to move forward.
Looking at the old rocker panel, how to remove it so I can replace it?
It appears that I need to pry or cut the upper edge of the floor that flips down over the rocker panel off?
Because of the running boards mount (that I can’t remove) I’ll have to cut the rocker in two also.
I’ll show the pictures.
Thanks!

Glenn - It's OK if that's the choice you make. Since you don't have the original support pedestal (nor the original seat frame and bottom/back sections from what can be seen here) at least there's nothing in the way of installing that seat. Before you do though, I'd suggest some test fitting just to see first of it actually fits and where the base legs land as you will need more than a single layer of sheet metal to secure it to the floor pan (for safety considerations).

Another thing to consider is that's just the seat bottom. How is the seat back attached/supported as an original seat had a rigid tubular frame that supported both the bottom and backrest sections. Some trial fitting to get an idea of how things will go together is in order I think. At least concerning the seat.

Maybe the picture I posted above doesn’t show the back seat well but it is all there. It functions well.
This seat has been in the truck for the past 19 years as is. I did do some upholstery work to it once but the driver side springs have broken & the driver’s butt is sunk down pretty bad. I got some springs to try & repair it & new upholstery. There are four holes in the floor pan for the bolts.

Replacing a Rocker Panel

I have essentially started over on getting the cab level again because I need to replace the rocker cover driver side.
You may recall that I welded 2 pieces of angle iron to the old battery box & wedged up on the rocker / floor board.
I have the front rocker almost cut out fully.
The cab is low again & the door won’t close (it hits the door plate.
Looking at my pictures, do I just need to cut old floorboard off to remove the rocker panel? It appears to have been welded.
The inner panel appears strong other than at the lower end, so I thought I’d weld more metal to it to help support the footwell panel. ???
I don’t want to remove the fender so I’m doing a lot of extra work so it appears.
So most of the structural support seems to be from the rocker panel & it’s attach points along with the inner side panel.?
Thank you for your support!
Floor pan is the 1 st picture.

Here's a sketch of a cross-section thru the rocker panel in the vicinity of the A-pillar (door hinge post). This whole sandwich is spot welded together. Between the door pillars, there's just the two layers, floor overlapping the rocker panel, spot welded together along the joint.

Showing my “progress” or just sinking for now.
Ive cut off the rocker panel from the front to the rear., as well as the 2 extra supports for the cab.
At this point it looks like I need to remove the rear cab support (R) in order to remove the rear rocker panel. Yes I’ll replace the rubber bushings too.
Found this strange stuff like spray foam & some fiberglass.
I’m hoping the support will come off the rear cab??!
One piece at a time!

On the rear cab support, you can use a thin sawzall blade to cut between the rocker and the support, and leave the support attached to the floor (assuming it doesn't need to com out because of rust.
Rear cab supports are available from the usual vendors, so you could drill out the spot welds and deal with it that way.
Just pointing out there's more than one way to skin a cat.

At this point, you may be better off taking the cab off the frame and putting it on a rotisserie. That would give you good access to do your cutting and welding.

Progress for sure! I don't know that I would even try cutting any of the cab. They make it look easy on YouTube, but I'm sure you have to have a bit of talent and skill. Keep it going!

I’m sure taking the cab off would be best, but that seems like so much Moore work!
The support does not come off from the floor. It looks like the rocker may have been tacked onto the support too. A little grinding May in fact allow me to pull the rocker out. I want to replace the rocker all in one unit.
I ordered the bushings long ago so I’ll put them back on tomorrow after getting them all cleaned up.
I appreciate the direction!

It might be more work, but it'll save your back, and maybe a few other body parts. Working on the floor when it's rotated vertically and you can sit on a stool or stand is way better than laying on you back.
Trust me, I've been there.

To remove the cab I’d have to disconnect everything & that just seems like enough for me to get lost!
Me work hard cutting, it not off yet.
I kind of think that brace is welded to the floor where the fuel tank sets.
For much I’d cut the brace off & get a new one but then it’s still welded to the floor.
Will do more this evening.

the rear cab support, you can use a thin sawzall blade to cut between the rocker and the support, and leave the support attached to the floor (assuming it doesn't need to com out because of rust.
I had to stop working on it due to the outside heat & just not feeling well.
Hope to get back on it Saturday (tomorrow).
I last was trying to cut up between the rear support bar & the rocker. Darn it’s like I kept cutting but not getting through. Also I recognize that the rocker is connected to a rear rocker & turns onto the back of the cab.
I’m thinking that sawzaw (due to the angle needed) with a special blade will cut it in two

I don't envy you guys that have to deal with all that rust and, at the same time, admire the tenacity and skills you guys have at dealing with all that rust!!

The weather finally cooled down here in SC. Couldn’t work on her for a week.
After cutting & grinding so much, I got the entire old one out. About to get the new one in place. Then plan to weld in place along with the front side panel. Then the new floorboard & footboard.
Of course I’ll Jack Jack the this side of the cab up to level it.

A tip.

DO NOT weld anything in till you have all the pieces in place (use self tapping sheet metal screws) AND you have the door fitted correctly.

Do Not Seek the Treasure! From Oh Brother Where Art Thou. 😁
I gotcha. Hope to work on it more Thursday.
Always thinking!

Love that movie. And the music.

Me too, could watch it repeatedly!

I can’t say that I did not seek the treasure😳. I got the new rocker in position front & rear. I did some welding front & rear to hold it as well as the front which did hold the cab up when I released the Jack. The Jack used a 2x4 positioned on the upper door in the cab. Thus I could not close the door for the weeks working on it.
I positioned / leveled the cab R side by measuring the driver distance side rear cab to (there is a diagonal line below the rear window) top of the front bed.
Initially the Passenger side was about 1.5 inches lower than the driver side.
So I got both sides equal distance. After tacking in place and removing the Jack, it remained almost the same (11 1/4 “).
That brings me to closing the door (I overhauled the door hinges last year. The doors work great.
I’m watching one of my favorite shows while I’m writing) Roadworthy Rescues with Derek Bieri. Funny Spence of humor😎.he sure makes it look like fun!
See pictures show what the striker plate is doing.
Thinking I might just grind that plate down a little. ??