Putting in a new kit, two questions. Number one. Original diaphragm. had a spring loaded seal. Looks like could’ve been leather. The kit only has a rubber cup with a hole in it for the plunger to go through. Is that just a newer way of doing the same thing? Number two. When reassembling should I use some type of sealant on the diaphragm or should it just tighten down and not leak. The surfaces appear pretty nice and if it needs sealant, what is the consensus for recommendation?
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
The diaphragm should seal around the perimeter without any sealant. As far as a hole in the middle, the kit I bought had the diaphragm and plunger shaft already assembled (again without sealant.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
No sealer needed. Also use a cork gasket between glass cover and body. The rubber ones leak. It looks like cork in your picture but figured I'd put it out there just in case.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Yes, it came with cork. Thanks guys. It’ll be a while before I get to try it out.
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
