The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1946 Chevy 1/2Ton in Utah - Here We Go

John, I’m getting really excited for you as you work through the things that need to go back on, as you fix things that aren’t exactly right, as you rediscover parts that got put, got forgotten, and got found. Like many more people on this site, I can’t wait to see your completed truck.

Glad you got the twist out of that bolt. That'll help it steer straighter going down the road.

Thanks Paul. It will be great to be driving this truck again after 20+ years.


Ha! Now that's funny! 🤣

Wow - I'm getting bored! Been waiting for my radiator relocation plate and water pump, so I removed the existing new pump and cleaned the surfaces. Also, a new radiator is coming, but that will be 2-4 weeks out. So I spent the rest of the morning cleaning up my work bench. I need to replace the lower control arm bushings on the car, so maybe I'll spend some time under that vehicle.

My steering box seems to turn smoothly, but the easiest time to work on it is when it's out of the truck. So I decided to open it up and clean out all the old grease - what a mess. I thought I was done with greasy cruddy crap! Anyway, got the parts cleaned out with rags, I have new chassis grease and new gaskets. Not worried about the ball bearings in the small housing since they moving smoothly. Hope I remember how to put it together! 😎

Update: Thanks to this helpful link! https://flic.kr/s/aHsjD9dwLj

Well, you're not done with the greasy cruddy jobs just yet.I think the chassis grease is too thick. You'll probably have to remove it.

There is a grease used for farm equipment called cornhead grease available from Tractor Supply, etc. It is significantly thinner than chassis grease and is somewhat fluid.

Thanks Otto! I did read somewhere about corn head grease. I'm going to check if the local Tractor Supply has it.

Note: Can't find any locally. I checked Tractor Supply and John Deere. Easy enough to find it online to order though.

Corn Head grease is a John Deer product. My local dealer had it the last time I needed some.

For anyone interested, here's the currently still active link to ye olde JD Corn Head grease for your ordering pleasure.

Thanks Dan! I got two tubes on order.

I missed the boat on this one, but for future Bolters, the Steering box grease from Tractor supply is: Grease 00 weight: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/super-s-cotton-picker-spindle-grease-00

You didn’t miss my boat Phil, thanks.

Got my water pump and adapter plate mounted for a test fit. The pulleys look to line up OK. I'll drill and tap the two holes tomorrow morning.

That's pretty neat.

Why did you paint your engine blue? I'm sure you said before but I don't remember.

Looks good John. Don't forget to use sealant on the bolt holes & threads as IIRC all of them penetrate the water jacket. Don't want to get it all buttoned up to find out there are leaks.

Also, you might want to consider Jerry's (Hotrod Lincoln) reply post in this other thread about installing the adapter plate. His added step of a flush filler behind those upper pump/plate to block bolt holes will help with secure installation of the plate/pump and probably improve leak prevention I think.

Back when I had the engine rebuilt, the guys asked me if I wanted it grey or blue. They showed me another 235 they were building and it was blue, so I went blue too. They gave me the left over can of spray paint, but I notice it's not the exact same color? I painted the thermostat housing months ago and it seems to be getting a little darker to match the engine block. Does paint do that?

Yes - I'll make sure to use sealant on all the bolts. Also, I like the idea of using some washers/spacers behind the plate for the new holes. The instructions warned about not over tightening those two and bending the plate. Putting some support behind it makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the suggestions!

Does the adapter plate require drilling any new holes in the block?

And I assume that adapter takes the place of the original backing plate on the water pump?

Otto - For the details on the adapter plate John used, see this blog page from fellow Bolter Pre '68 Dave that designed and still offers the plate. This info was referred to in John's Engine Shop Moving radiator forward thread.

Not finished with the water pump yet, but a good start. I need to pick up a couple 1 3/4 inch bolts tomorrow. I got the new holes drilled and tapped. Used a tapered tap first and then a bottoming tap to finish up. I wanted threads as far in as possible. Then, I mounted the water pump to the adapter plate.

OK - I believe I have the water pump relocation completed now. I'm using a 42.5 inch belt with alternator. Since the fan was moved up, I can reinstall the crank bolt with the thicker washer - fan will not hit the bolt or the harmonic balancer. Now I'm waiting for corn head grease for the steering box and hopefully the new radiator is on its way.

The John Deere corn head grease showed up, so I got going on the steering box rebuild. New gaskets and a seal plus one tube of grease and it's ready to put back in. I've been feeling like I'm not getting enough done, so this steering installed felt good to complete. I just have to hook up the pitman arm and drag link (I believe that's what they're called?) and then set the toe for alignment.

It’s not a sprint John, it’s a marathon. Any resto I’ve ever done; I have a shop full of vintage woodworking machinery that is all as new, I feel the same way. You struggle and work and it doesn’t seem like you’re doing much, but you’re putting in the time. Then everything (magically) falls into place and you suddenly get a lot done and make some real progress.
I really like your attention to detail. Everything you have done looks great.

Much appreciated Paul!

Today I was able to install the pitman arm and drag link. I was looking online for some of those drag link seals, but didn't see the ones I want. Also, to my surprise, I found the bolts and springs for the lower radiator support mounting. I guess I did package and label some things when I took it apart 20+ years ago. Cleaned them up a little on the wire wheel. I did pick up some new bolts and springs, but maybe I'll just use the stock setup.

One thing I noticed is when you turn the steering all the left, the pitman arm slightly touches the brake hose. Very slight, but I'll look at bending the bracket a little to avoid this.

So it seems I'm always thinking about my truck. While I was mowing the lawn, I thought about the pitman arm touching the brake hose, but that was when I didn't have the drag link attached. So I'm thinking maybe it won't touch now because steering stops on the axle might prevent that. I'll have to jack up the front and test the steering to find out. Results to follow.

Good thought process John. If it does touch, you may need to recheck to be sure your steering gear box was correctly centered before attaching the arm to the shaft. Should have the same number of wheel turns left and right from center. I seem to recall that the gear box arm isn't straight up and down on the shaft, but angles slightly to the rear when wheels are straight forward. That placement may be why your arm contacts the brake line hose in the full turn position. Possibly a question that may need more discussion in the Driveline forum.

All good this morning. Alignment set to 1/16 inch toe-in. I jacked up the front end and turned the wheel left and the steering stops prevent the pitman arm (not pinion) from touching the brake hose.

Pitman arm?

Oops! Now I'm confused?? What is the name of that part that connects the steering to the drag link? Maybe I've been calling it the wrong name?

Otto, Is that "pitman arm"?

I've been calling it "pinion", but pinion goes with the ring gear in the rear axle. I went back and edited my previous post.

Hi John,

Yes, Pitman arm. The pitman arm is the part connected to the steering shaft that transmits the steering wheel motion to the rest of the steering linkage.

And yes, a pinion is the gear that rides a ring gear or the steering rack in a rack and pinion system.

We all knew what you were talking about, I think.

Whatever the parts are called, your work is really nice. That's going to be the nicest 1946 1/2 ton truck anywhere.

You are correct! I'm going to get some exhaust work tomorrow and I found the pans that go on each side of the engine, down low between the oil pan and frame. I want to make sure the exhaust pipe goes through the hole since I'm using a different manifold now. And maybe the pans weren't really greasy, but the crud was caked on and I had to chip it off with a big screwdriver. Also, the crankcase vent tube might need a new hole in the pan on the passenger side. I'll look at that next.

I did put the steering wheel on. That changes the look in the cab.

Had planned to get some exhaust work done today, but after getting to the muffler shop they'll need to order a few parts - going back Thursday. The '60 exhaust manifold points toward the rear, where the '46 points straight down and there's an easier pipe bend to reach the hole in the bottom pan. He wants to try and use the same hole - I think it would look better. Temporarily installed the pan and I'll get it cleaned up and painted later.

With the truck out of the garage, it sure looks empty.

Got the exhaust installed today. Cody (muffler man) was able to use the existing down hole through the side pan - it was a tight fit. He also installed an extra flange so I could take out the side pan to clean and paint later.

Come on John, strap that lawn chair in and take it for a drive around your neighborhood. Don’t forget your seatbelt. Safety first.

I was thinking about that when rolling the truck off the trailer. I had to stand outside to work the e-brake. I kept thinking it would have been easier if I had a chair inside.

That’s how all great ideas start, as well as more than a few trips to the hospital.

When I had the fuel tank and seats out of Ol' Roy, I drove it to the gas station sitting on a 5 gallon bucket with a can of gasoline on the floor with a hose running out the window to the fuel pump.

Just working on some little items this holiday weekend. Exhaust installed then removed to paint the weld joints to help keep them from rusting. I painted the lower engine side pans (not sure what you call them?) - not perfect, but better looking than before. Then I found my front sheet metal surround side pieces and got those cleaned a painted. Temp mounted them in the last picture. I'm still waiting for my new radiator! 😒

Progress progress. Your truck looks stunning John. You are really doing some nice work, and your attention to detail is outstanding.