The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Crank balancer/pulley diameters

I've researched here and elsewhere pulley/balancer sizes for 235's. What I THINK I found is that the '53-'54's used a smaller diameter 3/8" wide pulley, and the 216's used a smaller diameter 5/8" pulley than the '55-up 235's. (please correct this if I'm wrong) But what I haven't been able to find is exactly what the diameters measure. A smaller diameter balancer MIGHT alleviate a problem for me.

My engine is a '59 with larger diameter pulley. This causes a possible problem for me on several fronts regarding my plan for a front motor mounting solution. The 235 won't drop right into my '36 like they do for a 216 replacement. The front motor plate ends up 1" shorter than my 207 if I keep the rear mounting position the same, which I need to do in order to have water pump/radiator clearance.

I am considering 3 solutions. 1.) fabricate a 1" offset to weld to my front plate to reach forward to the stock front motor mount location 2.) Fabricate side mounts 3.) Move the front crossmember 1" rearward and fabricate a new radiator mount to keep it in the correct position.

The problem with solutions #1 and #2 is my pulley may hit the crossmember And even if it doesn't, I may not have clearance to change the belt without jacking up the motor, as the pulley would be too close to the front crossmember.

So I'm wondering if changing to a smaller diameter balancer/pulley would solve this. I'm reluctant to move the crossmember for reasons I won't bring into this post, but I'll go that route if I have to.

A 216 balancer should solve your crossmember interference. It has a 5'8" pulley
A '59 235 has a low water pump which will not be centered in the radiator. It has a large 1/2" pulley and too long of a shaft. Not ideal
You can install an adapter plate to the front of the block to relocate a 216 water pump with a 5'8" pulley in the center of the radiator.
A 5/8" pulley can be installed on your generator or alternator.

Thanks Carl! I am definitely leaning toward the water pump relocation plate, and if I go with a smaller diameter pulley, I'm definitely going to go that route. Originally I was going to just make my own short shaft pump, as it's easy enough to do. But after much consideration, I'm leaning toward the adaptor plate.

Right now I have to decide what I'm going to do for a front motor mount. I'm assuming you mean the 216 balancer is 5.8"? If so, that's over an inch smaller than my pulley, so that gives me 1/2"+ more clearance on the bottom. I think a 5/8" belt is about 1/2" deep, so that might give me just barely enough room to change belts. I just might be able to get away with keeping the crossmember where it is, but need to put some more thought into it to be sure.

In the meantime, I'll start searching for a 216 balancer, as I will need that for the water pump conversion anyway.

He's talking about the width of the sheave, which is 5/8", not the diameter of the pulley.

OK, I wasn't sure. I need an exact diameter of the pulley if anyone has the measurement.

A 216 water pump with the pressed-on cast iron pulley can be machined to remove the belt sheave and converted to accept a bolt-on stamped steel pulley. You're not limited to that scarce and expensive narrow belt 216/early 235 high mount pump. A sheet metal pulley for a small block Ford V8 (289, 302, etc.) is the right size and close to the right offset. I've made that conversion on a few occasions.
Jerry

OK, I wasn't sure. I need an exact diameter of the pulley if anyone has the measurement.

Found the answer to my own question on Pre '68 Dave's site.


http://chev235guy.blogspot.com/search/label/Water%20Pump%20Relocation%20Adapter