The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Which Exhaust Manifold ?

Hi Guys,

I have just bought a 1950 3100 that I believe was imported from California to Australia and I am now starting a new project. The engine is beyond repair so I am in the process of putting in a 350 SBC & TH700 combo, my question is as there is little room for the exhaust between the engine and chassis rail what exhaust manifold do you guys recommend ?

Thanks Dean

Custom headers. Trying to stuff a 350 in that engine compartment requires that you think out of the box. You have to be concerned about the steering linkage, and, if you're going to add power steering, you have to be concerned about it's placement too. You have more wiggle room on the right side, but the left side is going to be tight.

Dean - Check out this reply in a different thread from Jerry (Hotrod Lincoln). His solution for that Bolter will work for your application too in clearing the steering gear and frame when installing the 350 SBC in your truck.

There are also small block Chevy exhaust manifolds from the late 1970s and early 80s with outlet flanges back by the firewall on both sides.

www.ebay.com/itm/267114734464?

Jerry

To add to the situation, as I live in Australia 🇦🇺 we have RHD vehicles so I’ll be doing a RHD conversion. So i have ripped out the original steering and suspension and put in a Jaguar Series II IFS rack n pinion system. I will have more room on the left hand side but not so much on the right.

Does the government require you to convert left hand drive vehicles to right hand drive?

That looks like a well-engineered installation. The rear exit manifolds for a 305 engine like I posted would be the obvious choice, if you can source parts from a donor vehicle from the early 1980s. Mid-sized Chevy, Pontiac, and some Oldsmobile vehicles all ran the small block Chevy V8.
Jerry

Opposite side issue, but could be solved the same way. Flat Out Engineering kit. C4 Corvette suspension. Wanted to keep the stock old school look. C2 Corvette 350 rams horn that to get to fit I cut a pie piece and welded back with stick. Then ground pretty, sand blasted and cast iron paint and baked it on both. I’m using the stock steering column shortened with a shrunken stock wheel, and only using one u joint.

Hi Otto, no they don’t, only brand new vehicles being imported must be RHD. The reason I’m doing it is because it makes driving so much easier especially when it’s comes to overtaking

If you left the stock 6 cylinder engine in place you wouldn't have to worry about overtaking.

We have to be very thorough when it comes to modifying vehicles here as they have to go through Engineering before being Registered, hence why I made such an elaborated mounting bracket.

Thanks for the advice on the manifolds, I will have to keep a keen eye out as we don’t really have a lot of American cars at our local wreckers

I found these on Marketplace but can’t seem to find anything with that part number - they look like they might work ?????

That PN comes back as a 1971 350ci with a 2bbl carb per this.

Bahahaha thats a good one Bill 👍

Be very careful when buying those manifolds without a reinforcing strut between the exhaust ports- - - -they have a nasty habit of warping from repeated heating and cooling, sufficiently to make it difficult, if not impossible to install some of the bolts. Later versions of the same item had a thick strut inline with the ports to prevent warp. Ask the seller to post a picture with them bolted to a cylinder head before making an offer.
Jerry

Thanks Kevin

Do you think Rams horns will work, they seem to hug the block nice and tight ?

Chip O's pictured manifolds above are "modified" rams horn, allowing the discharge to angle slightly in towards the block to clear the frame and steering. Unmodified rams horn manifolds dump straight down and could maybe clear, but if they do that clearance will probably very tight.

I installed standard rams horn manifolds on my SBC installation and they tucked just inside the frame on my '50 3600 (I believe that portion of the frame is the same on the 3100) but I needed to move my steering gear out approx. 2" to clear the driver's side manifold. There was really no room to shift the engine mounting to provide more clearance.

They are designed to dump straight down. I cut the stock steering shaft just long enough to not cause a binding in the u joint to clear the exhaust and use the stock C4 dampener, but it was still too close. Don’t want to melt the rubber in the dampener. Passenger side has plenty of clearance. They are the replica 2.5 inch corvette ram horns with accessories mounts on them. The generator looking alternator mounts on the stock passenger side. I followed the many instructions on the interweb that has you heat up the part before welding, and maintaining the heat. I used the gas grill, and bolted it to an old head to minimize warping. When done, wrap in a welding blanket or bury in sand for a very slow cool down.

Thanks ChipO & Cruiser, after seeing your photos I think it will work. I’m installing a Jag series II IFS rack n pinion steering which I think will give me a little more room to play with