I have read a number of posts regarding installation of the locking bead in the rear window seal and understand that there are a few different types of tools for this effort.
I have always been okay with buying tools but I do not like to buy tools that I will use once, especially if they don't work well.
I would appreciate other members insight regarding which tools work the best and where they should be purchased from.
I am working on paint now but installing glass is not too far down the road in my project. I need to purchase at least one windshield pane and the rear window pane and have looked at the traditional parts suppliers but would appreciate member insight regarding local glass company purchase vs. those sources to avoid shipping and handling charges.
I am planning to purchase the windshield and rear window sealing channels from Steele based on input from others on this forum but wondering if Steele is worth extra costs for door seal and door window related materials.
I got windshield and rear window seal channels from Jim Carter, and they worked OK.
Do NOT buy the locking bead tool that's just stamped metal Link. Get one with a handle on it. Or wrap the handle of the cheapo one with a ton of tape to protect your hand when using it. A ball end tool is pretty much essential also. Link Oh, and get yourself a couple of suction cups from Harbor Freight for handling the glass as you install it.
If you have intact glass to use as a pattern for a local shop, that may be a cheaper option considering shipping costs. I believe Jim Carter also sells paper patterns that a local shop could use. I wound up getting one side window cut locally for my truck, because Carter could only supply one when I visited them from Alaska to buy a bunch of parts. As I recall, it cost me about the same as the one from Carter, so I did save on the shipping for that one.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
For flat auto glass, a local glass shop near me gives you the option of using automobile rated laminated safety glass as original, or automobile rated tempered glass.
I like safety glass because it can't be smashed open like tempered glass. Of course tempered glass is better in case somebody has to smash the window to extract you from a wreck.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Use Automotive glass! Last week the wifey & me were out for a drive in our MX5RF, 70 mph, passing car sweeps into our lane, no idea what kicked up but BOOM! Auto safety glass “almost” let it thru but held enough to keep the wife safe, good dusting of small glass particles on both of us, only a minor bleed on her hand, fortunately none hit her face. Top open so sunglasses on…. Not so sure tempered glass would have restrained the unknown object…..laminated auto glass came real close to failing….. I usually keep my following distances big… but now they are even more….. Chuck
Automotive rated tempered glass is used on modern cars for the side windows and rear windows.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
No need to take my word. I'm sure you've seen side windows and rear windows shattered by thieves to break in to cars. That's the stuff that shatters into a million little pieces with no jagged edges. Laminated safety glass doesn't shatter.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Kevin, thank you for the insight on tools required and options for glass sources.
Otto and Hanks I am sure the windshield will be safety glass, I have had one of those object shattering windshield experiences myself and it is pretty scary.
I have one intact windshield panel that could be used for a template but I do not have a back window which unfortunately is the one that has the largest shipping and handling charge. I will check out the Jim Carter template option as well as talk to my local automotive glass source.
This is likely what you'll want. The call them patterns rather than templates. Your local shop may have the info for a back window if the shop is old enough.
My son in law had an eagle drop a rock that shattered their windshield. A number of years back an eagle dropped a salmon that cracked the windshield on a 737 as it was taking off. I can understand eagles carrying salmon, but rocks??
Last edited by klhansen; 06/13/20255:48 PM. Reason: added more info.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.