The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Welding helmet window darkness

I just bought a MIG, a little Campbell Hausfeld 105, seems like it will do what I want, soon as I learn how to set it up properly. Anyway my problem is the helmet. I got the PO helmet and it was a 10+. All I could see with the 10+ was the arc. I went to the local hardware and got a 5. The 5 was too light and I knew I was going to have problem with it. Still I could only see the arc, but I was able to see what I was working on. I got an 8 (these are all the dark green) and seems to be about right may be a shade to light, but I still can only see arc. btw this is my first arc type welder. I have been using a torch and to see tyhe weld I don't use googles. I did a search and one of the post mentioned seeing the puddle, that would nice. Also mentioned was a gold window which I have seen. Before I spend money on an auto dark I would like to be close with the old helmet. sinc e the variable windows seem to be on the top or bottom half of the range, and I'm about middle now.
Larry
Larry

The variable helmet I have is 9-13 and works nicely with the mig I've got (Lincoln SP 175, aka MigPak15)

I used the welder abit more today. I tacked together the bottom half of a welding cart. This little welder has wheels but they totally suck when it comes to changing wire or settings on the welder. Anyway the numer 8 lens was much better in the sun light. I could actually see what I was working on. I didn't have to raise the lens to position the arc. I guess there is no way you are going to see the puddle in the arc. I see part of now of the puddle now behind the arc, but then most of what I did today was just tacking. I was working in the garage with a 500 watt halogen previously. I'm using the welder with flux wire. I'm not getting the amount of slag I was expecting from the documention. RTFM again.

Any comments on gold vs green?

NM51 How much do you change the lens when going from the garage to outside in daylight. I know it probably wouldn't be the same for my old eyes. Some where around 9 seems to be the splt point, though I saw one that was above that and went to 20. I had second thoughts about what I may of originally had in the helmet. I wasn't marked. I'll have to see if I can find a 9 for my helmet.
Larry

Different types of welding require different shades of tint(5-13) I would make sure you are using the correct shade for the task. Yet again I only know enough to be dangerous. I would check out weldingweb.com for the right info.

Gimpy good link weldingweb.com I found a couple threads that confirm I'm not the only one having problems seeing the puddle. There were some good suggestions in the threads to try, like keeping the light from coming in the back of the helmet, and the nozzle out of the way. The lens shade is still up in the air, but I'll go back and do a few more searching.
Larry

I train welders days and nights. Refer to the following pub for info. For arc welding most helmets come with a #10 lens. Adjustables 9-13. The lens darkness is a function of light intensity(amps) and duration. As we age, it can become harder to see the puddle. Eliminate light reflecting into the back of the helmet. I also have some of my older students (me too) use halogen shop lights to illuminate the area. It also takes a lot of practice to read and see the puddle. A 3 or 5 shade is required for oxyfuel work. A 9 or higher for plasma torch work.

http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/safety/m199776c.pdf

Rev383, Thanks for the link. I'd been looking for that info, should be required with all welders don't care how cheap they are. Yes it takes a lot of practice to read the puddle, unfortunately haven't had enought yet.Thanks again.

Larry

UR welcome. I tell my students "it's not inches or feet, but miles of bead".

Lincoln site:

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/lenstaybl.asp

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/