The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Tiny holes in oil pan

Have an oil pan from a 1954 235 motor which I'm trying to see what can be done to fix 4 tiny holes. Is there a J B Weld type product out there that would work, I guess something that would resist the oil form constantly touching it. Or is it best to weld up the holes? Trying to get a quick fix on this if I can, hoping to be driving the truck in the next few days. Appreciate any comments, info. etc.......

Thanks, Tom

Regular JB Weld might work, but you'd need to get the area CLEAN. That might be an issue unless you remove the pan.

Welding them shut could work, but again, you'd need the pan clean, and burning thru the thin metal would be an issue.

If you've got pinholes in the pan from rust, there are probably more ready to show themselves.

A replacement pan would be the best fix.

The only way I've been successful at patching an oil pan with rust holes is to replace the entire bottom of the pan. Cut it back to solid metal and fabricate a patch that eliminates any possibility of further leaks. You're dealing with the bottom of a cone-shaped rust pit- - - -as soon as you start welding in the area of a leak, it will blow out to several times the size of the leaky spot. Either cut out and replace the entire rusty area, or find another oil pan. 1954 and early 55 pans will be the only option. They have straight pan rails- - - -in midyear 55, Chevy put an offset in the passenger's side of the block below the distributor to clear a bigger oil pump, and modified the shape of the pan to match. A 216 pan with the troughs and spray tubes removed will bolt onto the early full pressure block- - - -not sure about the sump shape or pump pickup being the same.
Jerry

Whatever method you use to patch the holes will require removing the pan for a permanent fix. You don't want oil seeping through the holes while you're applying the JB Weld.

If the inside of the pan isn't completely rusted with more pin holes about to pop through, the JB Weld method will work.

My brother used regular JB Weld to seal a sheared off engine cover on a motorcycle. Over 15 years and not a drop of oil lost.

I do have the pan off the engine, cleaned it out good, dried it out, now just waiting for what to do with it. You all have good advice on how to fix it. Wish that particular pan was not so rare, didn't realize that was the situation. I think the welding in a patch is the best solution, however I think I will try the JB-Weld for right now. Trying to get the truck to driving stage in a few days so just don't have time to do the patch welding (but that will be my permanent fix for it). Not looking good for finding another, I did put a post in the Parts Wanted section. Thanks and keep the great ideas flowing.

Tom

If you can, sandblast both inside and outside of the pan. Then apply a layer of JB weld to both sides where your 4 holes and the other ones that appear are.

That should hold you until you can find a good pan. I think Jerry's idea of using a 216 pan would fix you up.

I'd always be afraid that the JB Weld on the inside might flake off and end up in the oil pump.

As long as the metal is clean, and especially sandblasted like I suggested, I highly doubt it would flake off.

I had the same issue (pin holes), with my oil bath air cleaner. If it was mine, I would clean it up, then braze the holes closed or have it brazed. It would be a permanent fix. If it is done from the inside, you could lightly grind the outside flush, give it a paint job and you would never know it was fixed.

Brazing the pinholes shut is a good idea. Way less chance of blowing a hole in it.

Acid core solder would be even better than brazing. The lower the temperature used to apply the patch material the better. Maybe the silver solder used to assemble HVAC units would be a good compromise, at least for a temporary fix.
Jerry

The metal would have to be very clean to be able to tin the metal and get solder to stick. Brazing needs a dull red heat on the base metal and that takes care of cleaning the metal.

I have used silver solder to attach lugs for pannier racks to bicycle frames. Bicycle frame tubes are high alloy steel and rather thin so brazing is used onty where the tubes meet cast lugs. Silver solder is much stronger than lead/tin solder and requires a higher temperature but much lower than brass/bronze. And the surfaces must be clean. Most of the brazing rod I've bought lately is actually bronze and requires a higher temperature than brass. Stronger though. Silver solder ain't cheap, though.

I second the acid flux and 50/50 solder or lead free. If you attempt to braze, it will burn through the thin steel, if you use SilFos or similar Silver/Phosphorus HVAC braze rod, you will have to heat the steel to a dull red and probably burn through. High silver content silver solder may work due to a slightly lower temperature but you will need to use the paste flux designed for steel and dissimilar metals.