The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Here's my big bolt. How do I operate the dump?

Ok so new to me 1951 Chevy 1500. I have bypassed the fuel system with a gas can to get it running.(Now I'm gonna clean out the fuel tank) I had it running and driving tonight. My newest question is what do I have to do to operate the dump?

Hopefully my pictures work.

Welcome to the site!

Assuming it is a hydraulic pump driven by the PTO, you engage the PTO and pull a knob (like that big one on the dash to the Left of the steering wheel) There should be another one similar to that to engage the PTO. (or that one might engage the PTO and another one controls the dump)

You need to push the clutch in before engaging the PTO. You might want to look underneath the truck and see what engages the PTO, following the cable up to where it goes through the firewall.

PTO should be on the driver side of the transmission (assuming the trans is an SM420)

Sometimes there is a linkage connected to a lever coming up through the floor to engage the hydraulic pump if it's not cable operated. I didn't see one in your photo, unless it's hidden by that battery you have in there. Again, you may have to crawl under the truck to see what's there and follow it back into the cab.

My 'bolt has the pto on a cable on the dash and the hoist lever is on the floor.

When you figure it out, I offer a bit of a safety warning, since you are waking up old equipment:

Never EVER get between the frame and the tilted box without first propping it up! Gravity is just as dangerous a force as live electrical wires, and don't trust the once-dormant hydraulics to keep the load suspended for you.

Prop it up and test the prop to ensure it will hold the box in the air while you inspect the hoist.

X10 to what Puffie40 said about "Never EVER..." Even with a fully functional hydraulic set up with brand new everything, that zone between the bed and the truck must always be a "NO BODY" zone that should never be violated when under normal operation or testing. When inspection/service/repairs are need, only enter this zone with tested safety bracing/blocking of the raised bed in place. Your loved ones will thank you for sticking to this safety rule! SAFETY FIRST

As to my $.02 worth on the operation controls of your dump bed, I'm going to venture to say that the circled handle in the below screen grab from your 2nd picture is your UP/DOWN control lever. If you crawl underneath your truck as it sits, and snap some pictures of that vicinity of the under truck mounted hydraulic equipment, you should be able to figure out what controls the PTO and lift/lower valve, plus get a better idea of the condition of the equipment before attempting to raise the bed.

I like all the advice on the dump bed.
Very nice dump truck there.
Optima, I’m sure we’d all enjoy hearing what those other knobs and switches on the left side are for.
(the big round one must be to pull out and engage the PTO, of course).
The radio looks very interesting. And the Mack heater!

Thanks for all the info. I just got my new electric fuel pump yesterday and have rigged it up to work(eventually I want to wire it to a relay so it will shut off when truck stops). Now that I have steady stream of fuel so this big bolt purrs away like a kitten I attempted to play with the dump. So truck in neutral with the clutch in, I pulled the Big round knob (says muncie on it). This made the square tube start spinning when I released the clutch. I then got out of the truck and pushed the level on the frame in and after a bit it started lifting the box. I had blocking ready that I used to prop the box up safely. I then shut the truck off and took a look at things. The hydraulic tank was now accessible. I added 4 liters of hydraulic fluid. While box is propped up I went to the passenger side and took the nuts off that were holding the auxiliary fuel tank on that weren't overly accessible with the box down (I am taking the tank off to clean it out in the hopes that I can reuse this 36 Gallon beast). I then went back and started the truck up again and lifted the box up to remove the blocking, lowered it and then proceeded to lift it all the way up. (I cant wait to try lifting with some dirt in the box this weekend). I will get a few pictures put up soon.

Glad you got it working.
One word of caution--when adding hydraulic fluid with the bed raised, it's a good idea to leave the cap off the first time you lower the bed. That way, if you happened to overfill it, the excess fluid can escape. I know of one case where the person left the cap on and when they lowered the bed, the excess fluid blew the seals out of the cylinder. Presumably this didn't happen to you, thankfully, but just thought I'd mention it.

When I electric fuel pump convert a rig, I always run fuel pump power through the switching pins on a three prong oil pressure sender. I used one from a '77-9 Cadillac DeVille because that's what I had to hand, but it's just a basic oil pressure sender with 1/4" NPT threads. The copper colored blade is the dashboard light, the other two switch the electric choke, so when the engine runs there's power. I don't have an electric choke, so instead it switches the fuel puimp, which only draws an amp or two. I also ran a lead from the starter S terminal, since that one only provides power during cranking. Notoriously unreliably.. but at least it's there in theory to reduce cranking time if the fuel bowl is dry.

So that's my safety feature, the fuel pump can't run if the engine isn't.

As promised a few pictures. So I managed to make three trips with the truck. I started with 4 buckets from my skid steer. Then moved up to 6 buckets and the last load I took 8 buckets. During the last load I backed up to my location for dumping and engaged the PTO, jumped out to lift the box and then noticed my rear tires rolling backwards. I jumped back in the cap disengaged the PTO, put the truck in 1st gear but it was to late the truck rolled back into the culvert I was installing. The angle was a little to steep and also hung up on the culvert so I had to get the neighbor to come pull me out with his tractor. After I was out I placed the truck back in position to dump the load. While driving the truck back to my house I now have a huge air leak. From what I can tell I have blow out the gaskets on the carburetor. So thats going to be my next post. How do I identify what carb I have so I can get the proper rebuild kits. Kinda a bit bummed out but thats the way she goes. (renting a dump trailer for this wekeend so I can finish my job).

Before I start trying to answer your "air leak" question, it's EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you take steps to replace your temporary fuel supply system with a properly installed and secured/plumbed tank and fuel supply line. One of the first and biggest rules we remind all Stovebolters about is "SAFETY COMES FIRST"!!!

It's considered ok to temporarily use a well secured tank and supply line like you have as a means of starting/running the engine when temporarily testing/servicing/tuning the engine or a short move from yard to shop, etc. However, such set ups are not encouraged or suggested for use in normal "work" operation of the truck (like what you are showing in your post) as it poses a significant safety and fire hazard.

While you are working on resolving whatever problem has come up with your "air leak", please rectify the fuel tank and supply line issues before putting your truck back to work. Your family/significant other/whatever will thank you for working safely and coming home at the end of the day un-scorched/uninjured!

Stovebolt does not condone, encourage or approve the use of unsafe practices or use of equipment!

PS - Did you not set/check your parking brake was engaged and functional before hoping out of the truck to operate the dump bed? This too is a MUST DO every time you operate your truck and dump bed for your safety and those that may be around you. SAFETY FIRST - PLEASE

Also, you should be able to rig up a way to lift the box from inside the cab. You should not have to get out every time you need to dump a load. As mentioned above, most trucks either have a cable or a mechanical linkage of some sort so you can operate it from inside the cab.