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Diet Pepsi and a smile. Soon on the road!!!

On the road. Opened up a little. Hard to hold the camera and shift. www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIMQhxtJjJU

My 235 came with this carb. 1957 235. Are those rebuild kits pretty much the same?
I found this one? Not sure if its right.

Call Carbking (Jon Hardgrove) at his office. He'll set you up with the exact kit you need:

The Carburetor Shop: 573-392-7378

The kit you show says it doesn't come with ???? for 235. What doesn't it come with?

Thanks Otto. I have word out.

This a better video. If you have sound on your computer , you can hear that engine pretty good.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtMupmDwGQE

nope , Jon has nothing for the rochesters

Rats! I didn't know that.

Call Tim Hewitt at Daytona Parts 386-427-7108

www.daytonaparts.com

They've rebuilt at least half a dozen carburetors for me in the last 20 years. They also sell rebuild kits.

I`m also hunting the pinion seal for this truck. 10 bolt.Is this right? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/masterpro-bearing-seal/masterpro-multi-purpose-seal/mpb0/5778/v/a/116621/automotive-truck-1958-chevrolet-truck?q=1958-1959+Pinion+Seal+For+Differential+Housing+1%2F2T+Posi-Trac+Chevrolet+and+GMC+Pickup+Truck&pos=1

BD - Is your differential a Posi-Trac unit??? That seal description says for Posi-Trac.

If your's isn't a Posi-Trac equipped differential, you need this seal instead.

Its is not posi trac. Howabout a LPH orielys? MasterPro Multi-Purpose Seal - 5778

A check of GMPartswiki shows the original part was GM# 3776800 (later replaced by GM# 3865358). Those GM#s cross reference to a National Seals 6818.

Although O'Rielly's web vehicle list checker says their 5778 fits your truck, a check through other source listings say it does not. A check of the PN 6818 shows they carry a Precision 6818 which shows as a match for your truck. That the one you should find will fill your need.

Note: A dimensions check between the National and Precision 6818 data shows the exact same specs for both seals.

Yes , the national.

I got the seal out. Looks good. This flexible wire loop was in there. I`m guessing it was part
of the original pinion seal? or does it go in around the pinion? The nut was 1 1/8

That springy thing would go around the inside of the seal lip to put a little pressure on the lip. Check the replacement seal - it will likely have a springy thing at that position.

Thanks. I`ll get the seal in an hour or so.

together. Used Jerry`s trick marking the nut and thread count. No leaks

Looks like I'll replacing the steering column. Too much play. It has a leak somewhere. I replaced the gasket. IDK maybe a crack.
I have a nice replacement I took out of the 59 when I switched to PS.
I took it out on the highway at 55mph. Rides good. Shifts nice.
Speedo works! Tires balanced. Stops! I climbed a high dirt hill in 1st. Not much problem.
Engine seems to lack ACCEL in 3rd at 45-50mph and start off in 1st.

Column in!!

Riding on the farm www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VZ2ofC9NC0

ALT bracket spacer

This column is much better. Bonus , has the horn wire!

Heater in today. Original switch. One speed. Wide open

I really like my blinker can makes that "clickin" noise.
Finished up that high and tight welding up under the dash. Welding blanket and water.
That old firewall insulation would go up quick. Put in the rubber flooring mat.

I put over 100 miles on it this morning. Does good at 62 mph.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQihooQgnE0

Looking good. Wish a thousand times I had kept my panel.

Thanks, very satisfying for something sold to me as yard art. The thing handles great.
I have a SM-319 in there now with the OD locked out.

1958 235 Sun sheet

OK compression check. Not looking good.
1 75
2 76
3 76
4 25
5 25
6 76
whats my problem most likely? Engine runs fine. Starts easy. No power

Adjacent cylinders may be just a head gasket.

Lots of possibilities BD. Could be failed piston rings, blown head gasket, sticking valves amongst other things. Previously you said it was recently rebuilt by a shop. You need to begin investigating these different possible conditions, but may also want to reach out to the shop on what if any warranty they offered.

You've already checked basic compression. Time to pull the valve cover and check for full valve opening/closing and then probably do a "leak down" test as that will help better ID where your loss of compression is coming from. Probably better to post about this in the Engine Shop to get the best visibility and responses back on whats going on.

.This is a 1957 235.
Not the original 235 from 1958. not been rebuilt
leak down test next week

I`m on the fence about just cutting my losses with the 235 and find a SBC to put in there.
Eventually I will sell the truck. Not sure what to do. I do know that I`ll get run over trying to pull
out of my property onto the highway with the 235. Modern traffic does not want to wait on me.
Looks like a rebuild is in order. I remember the previous owner said his wife wanted it out of
her Bel aire because it lacked power. That was 30+ years ago and all the engine did was sit since
then. It'll fire up if you just show it the key. Which I like, but lack of power in todays world. IDK.
The price of a rebuild, if I can find someone that even wants to do it, might be close to cost of a SBC.
Plus I have many new parts for those.
What do you guys think? With a rebuild, will the 235 keep up with today?

If it is just a head gasket issue, getting those other two cylinders up to 75psi will make a big difference. It won't be a screamer but it will be a lot better than it is now.

My 235 is from a ‘59 passenger car, 135HP and is really peppy. Your ‘58 has 145HP so it should be even better. Even your good cylinders are really low at 76 lbs. According to a 1961 Motors Truck manual, a compression ratio of 8:1 should have a compression of 140 lbs. Your engine, if it truly is a ‘58 235 has a ratio of 8.25:1. Rebuild it and I believe you’ll be fine.

I still need to do some things with the 58. Seeing what I did wrong and fixed with the 59.
Its very close.

Let me ask you this Phil. I`m delayed with a leak down test and wondering how well
that will narrow down my problem. With the compression being low and lower. I`m thinking whatever repairs the engine
would need ,the engine would have to be removed. Debating on just lifting the engine out and not doing a leak down test.
thoughts?

If it was my project, I would pull the engine. It doesn’t take much effort to pull these old Stovebolts and it would make diagnosing the issue much easier. Only after you find the extent of your problems can you make an educated decision on how to proceed.

I`d try a leak down test on my own, but not sure what to listen for and where.
I have a good friend that thats his business..engines. But the season is now that keeps him busy.
I put the engine in myself w/ bell housing. That was a nail biter as I had to tilt the motor to lower it in.
If i were to pull it, I`d have to have help. You should have seen me lowering it in. Tilting up + turning with one hand.
Lowering the picker with the other. Not fun.

Yeah, but now you a seasoned installer!

With everyone in the world swapping to LS engines , the old SBC have gotten pretty reasonable. Don't get me wrong, I am all about keeping the 235 but if it's a matter of economics, you need to do what will bring the most at sell time.

I would at least open up the 235 and see what is going on, it may be as Otto suggests and just need a head gasket.