The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine Paint

Looking for recommendations on a good engine paint. The stuff Classic Parts sells claims to be "the best", and they claim a sprayed finish look even if you brush it on. Can anyone confirm this?

Want to repaint my blue 235 the original grey color (for '36) before putting it in. Any tips on prep work appreciated as well.

Thanks again guys.

Ron

I did a quick clean up on my 235 engine and used a Rust-Oleum rattle can grey. I think it looks close to the original color.

Jim Carter sells a Grey engine paint, a lot of folks think it is a spot on match for the original GM color.

I used Jim Carter's engine paint color. It's PPG ALK-200 and goes on with spray or brush very nicely. I found a couple spots on my engine with original paint and the color was almost exact.

I've seen a video advocating heating the iron with a propane torch to sweat out any oil, then prep with oil and grease remover. I'm not sure it's worth the effort however.

Craig's rattle can approach is the easy way out and would work well also.

I had just wanted to clean up the engine bay a little. The plan is swap in my 261 this fall, the entire under hood area will get a refresh for that.

I'd prefer to just be able to buy it already in cans to make it easy, but I do want to do a decent job. (Not saying Craig didn't, not implying that). That's why I was wondering if the claims that using a brush looks like it was sprayed are true. Maybe I'll just buy a cheap spray gun, but I don't have a good system to take all the moisture out of my air lines.

Don't be afraid of rattle cans. You can get just as good results with them as you can with a spray gun. Both engine and engine bay were done this way. Rust-O-Leum lasts forever, too.

If Rust-O-Leum is good, and if I can get it in the right color (or at least close), I have absolutely no objections to that, and would prefer it to make things easier.

I used the Bill Hirsch stuff for my '52's 235 because I like the shade, it seems a little darker than most of the engine gray rattle cans I've found. If I had to do it again though, I'd use Rustoleum Charcoal Gray rattle can. It's on the transmission below. Different camera metering indoors vs. out, but I can tell you they're pretty similar, with the RCG being just a tad darker. Very confident the Rustoleum will take the heat of the engine as well. Have had nothing but success with Rustoleum.

FYI, most automotive paint stores can put paint in a rattle can for you. I have done that and they charged about $40. I don't know if they'd do that for you if you brought paint in to them.

Also, I believe the Filling Station sells Bill Hirsch paint in rattle cans as well as pint or quart.

I second or third Bill Hirsch Engine Paint! I've been using it since the 70's and I have always brushed it on using a quality brush, it will lay down like you sprayed it on, even on sheet metal.

Make sure the engine is clean and brush it directly on...no primer needed!

Mike B

After I degrease the block, I apply Ospho and let it do its thing for 24 hours. I then go over it with a Scotch Brite pad to remove the white powdery substance. It is a byproduct of the rust conversion process. If it doesn't all come off. I soak the Scotch Brite with Ospho which dissolves it, then wipe it down with acetone. Since the chemical process has been completed, the white stuff doesn't come back.
Next day I prime with Rustoleum rusty metal primer, then paint with 2 coats of Bill Hirsch dark gray engine paint.
I have done this on 2 engines and they still look like new after 4 years.

Your engine looks fantastic!

Kevin, didn't know Filling Station sold cans. I will check that out. With Mike's "third" for Bill Hirsch, I'll probably go that route. Thanks for the replies gentlemen.

Ron

Will your process work without removing all of the blue paint that's already on the block? It appears to be in decent shape, so I was hoping to paint over top of it. Unless there's a semi-easy way to strip it.

Would a pint be enough to paint the engine and bell housing if brushed on?

I think a pint would be enough. I got a quart and was able to share some with another bolter. I sprayed my engine, but still had more than half of the quart left.

Everything I'm finding online is about painting an engine from a bare block. Having a hard time finding info about REPAINTING an engine. Unless my plan is unrealistic, I'd like to clean/degrease the engine, somehow remove all degreaser, then repaint over the existing paint. Is this doable with good results?

The engine is from a car, so it's blue. I'd like to paint it gray, but maybe I'd be better off sticking with the original blue engine color?

Ron

As long as you take off any flaking paint and the engine is clean and degreased, the existing paint will serve as a good base. First clean it with degreaser, scuff it up with 220 grit paper or red Scotchbright, then clean it with wax and grease remover. You’ll be putting on enough coats to cover the existing paint so the blue won’t show thru.

Don't overthink it. I de-grease and wire wheel everything to the best of my ability and then clean it with soap and high pressure water.

Then I rattle can it with Rust-O-Leum or Bill Hirsch. It pretty much lasts forever.

I haven't even met you yet, and you already seem to know me.

Hahaha! Hey, I overthink everything, too - especially something I've never done before.