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Joined: Feb 2005
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U
'Bolter
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I installed a Rochester carb to test start my 1960 235 engine, but I have a Carter YF 3211s with auto choke that I'd like to use. I have a pre-formed fuel line and was wondering if there is a pre-formed line that would be plug-n-play for the Carter carb? Currently the fuel line comes in from the front with a couple 90 bends. Is there a pre-formed line for a certain year that comes in from the valve cover side or if I use a 90 fitting, a line that comes in from the front? Otherwise I'll have to dig out my flaring non-skills to make this work.

Also, the gasket at the bottom covers one of the three holes on the carburetor. Is this OK or should I cut a notch in it to match the other two holes? Thanks for any help!
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~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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I doubt you're going to find a pre-bent line for the Carter carb, since they were aftermarket. Shouldn't be too difficult to modify the line for the Rochester to fit the Carter. I would use the straight fitting on it and form a bend right near the end to hit that fitting. It would make it easier to fit the line on.

As far as that hole, there's a relief cut in the carb base so that it sees the venturi and shouldn't be blocked by the gasket.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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Looking at the pictures again and now I see the relief cut for that third hole. Thanks for pointing that out.


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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The 3211S will be remarkably better than any Rochester B or BC carburetor...especially for the 1957 and forward 235. I see there is a rebuilt tag on it. Please make certain it is adjusted correctly. Rebuilt can mean many things and some of them are not very good.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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'Bolter
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Cut the bend out two back, flip the line and reconnect with a short piece of tubing.


"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."

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And if you decide to follow jmoore's suggestion, you could add an in line fuel filter (see through to monitor flow if you like) to help bridge the cut out gap. Just a thought. wink


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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Originally Posted by Jon G
... Please make certain it is adjusted correctly. Rebuilt can mean many things and some of them are not very good.

Jon, Thanks for the heads up.

Originally Posted by jmoore
Cut the bend out two back, flip the line and reconnect with a short piece of tubing.

Good thought. I didn't think of that. Also, I just ordered a glass bowl fuel filter that Dan suggested and we'll see how it all goes together.


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
Here We Go
Follow in his DITY Bay

- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,209
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Please (if you look inside) make certain it has the anti-slosh gasket in place (along with the metal retainer). Fuel can and will slosh up and run down the flat rectangular shaped linkage connecting rod and you don't want that happening. Please see the "for sale" section in the Swap Meet where I mention the YF gaskets. I have invested in steel rule die cutters for that seal and will send one if you need it.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end

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