The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1946 Chevy 1/2Ton in Utah - Here We Go

Ha! I did think about it and I might add a coat of paint later. I just wiped it off for my future test start.


What years are those trucks? Or does it just depend on the engine being used?


I'm just remembering the drops of oil on the garage floor and the smell. I was hoping to solve both of those issues with a PCV conversion. Everyone seems to have a different way to do it, so I'll keep reading/researching. But yes, the truck will probably run just fine the way it was designed.

Phil what pcv valve did you use .? Is it one from a military truck that looks the same but is reversed?I noticed your draft tube but cannot see the brace mine came with a brace that goes from the tube to the side cover bolt.

Cold and rainy in Utah today - good time to be in the garage. I thought I was done with the "greasy" parts, but maybe a good time to clean the oil filter canister.

Did a pcv on my 261 and it was nice and "clean" i believe it is Deve here that has the tech tip on converting to a pcv incuding correct one to use. I like them.but for originality you probably want to use draft tube.

Alvin, I'm still debating this move. I've seen the conversion by Deve and it does look clean. But, I've also read where some believe the PCV valve should be mounted higher up, maybe more even with the head? I've seen some use the top of the draft tube to mount the valve. I've also seen some mount the PCV valve in the valve cover. Many options, but I guess they all work? I'm just thinking about eliminating the drops of oil on the floor, the smell and maybe the oil that blows under the truck that messes up the bottom side of the frame?

If oil is coming out of your draft tube, something is wrong.

I have 3 vehicles with road draft tubes and none of them, including the AD truck leave oil drips from the draft tube on the floor or spew oil from them while driving.

OK. I just remember this truck (when it had the 216) dripping a little oil. Maybe I should just drive this 235 for a bit before doing anything. I do appreciate all the feedback guys!

I seen a video on y tube adventures from scratch he is a scrapper in Kansas his last video showed a truck with the origional set up he said in the video that he knew it was worth something so he may be selling on e bay .

Still trying to figure out how I'm going to get the brake/clutch return springs to work, when I heard a ping and noticed the clip was missing on the end of the clutch pivot. I can usually find stuff on the floor - looking under the truck, my car, jack stands, tool cabinet,... But maybe this was just dumb luck. I found it sitting next to the left king pin.

I lost an identical clip for my lawn mower last week. I looked all around the area I was working but couldn't find it. I gave up and headed for the garage to find some sort of make-do solution and happened to look down and saw the clip 30 feet from where I was working.

It took off like a rocket, I guess, and landed just about under one of the cars in the garage.

Disclaimer: I'm not a fabricator, but... Here's my solution to the brake/clutch return springs. Thanks to "homer51" who sent me some pictures of his setup. I tried to copy his bracket and this might not be the final setup, but it seems to work for now. I did double check to make sure the bolt was not touching the flywheel.

Update 8/1/2025: Now that I have the engine side pans installed, this was a complete waste of time. I found the Z bracket that mounts to the pan and that's where the brake spring attaches using a 7" wire extension connected to the clevis pin on the master cylinder rod. The wire extension allows space from the clutch spring. I've added couple pictures.

Looks good. The only comment I have is the springs should be extended just a bit when the pedals are released, to be sure thy come all the way back up when released.

I've been thinking about that Kevin. I used a 1 1/4inch angle iron and thought about getting a 1 1/2 or 2inch. Not sure what is available, but will check a steel vendor next week. Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll have some scrap pieces - will check Home Depot too. "homer51" picture looks like one side is wider.

Well if you weren’t a fabricator before, you are now.
I’m finding the scrap bins at metal yards a good place to get “stuff”. I just grab whatever looks useful. Scrap steel has been my source of practice pieces while I’ve been learning to weld.
I might be tempted to run holes through your angle for a positive home for your spring. Maybe it doesn’t matter if there is always tension on them, but if you’re going to take another run at it….

Oh man! I picked up a 1 1/2inch angle iron this morning and if I drill holes, the springs might end up in the same spot they are now. I might go back to exchange this one for some 2inch. I tried to put little grooves to hold the spring, but maybe I need the cab mounted before I can tell if there will be constant tension?

What about adding a spacer under your existing bracket?

John

I should write a book titled: "Things I didn't even think about." That too is a good idea John. Sometimes I get tunnel vision and need to step back. I guess my "step back" is the Stovebolt Forum. You guys have been great.

I tested the fuel pump today and it is pumping gas to the carburetor. Now I'm building some courage to start this thing. Oh, and when looking at the fuel pump picture, did I see a drop of gas on the right fitting? Dang.

Prolly a sixteenth turn of the fitting will fix that

SUCCESS! I was able to get the engine started today. Finally got the courage to go for it. About 40-45 pounds of oil pressure - well, I saw the needle go above 40 and I was busy working the carburetor to keep the engine running. The alligator clips (probably 16 gauge wire) from the battery to the coil seemed a bit warm, maybe hot? Is that normal? And the coil felt warm too. I did not use the ballast resister to the coil since I was only going to run the engine for 10-15 seconds.

Here's the video.LINK

I don't remember; was that a Rip Van Winkle engine or was it rebuilt?

John - Big congrats on getting the test fire done and confirming your engine operation and great oil pressure reading! Your chassis with the power plant in place is one more step towards an even bigger success. I enjoy reading and watching your story develop!

It was a rebuilt 1960 235. This was the first start up. It was rebuilt maybe 4 years ago?

Thanks Dan! I'm pretty happy right now. Lots of work behind me.

Congratulations John. Getting your engine fired after a 4 year slumber is a huge accomplishment. You could strap a lawn chair to your frame and drive it around the block. Wear a seatbelt, safety first.

We have a photo of such a thing at a Homecoming with Grigg's "naked truck" ... I bet John M can find it. (We wouldn't recommend "around the block" tho.

You all are funny! I did see a guy (snowking55) rebuilding a 1936 Chevy truck on YouTube and he was driving his truck just like you said.

When I was working on my lever shocks, I could not find the rear shock links on eBay. I did find some parts that I could possible cut/splice and just needed someone to weld it for me. Well, my neighbor volunteered to weld, but first maybe I should have asked if he knew how to weld? He brought them over and I said thank you, but in my head I was wondering what the heck happened. When I grinded down the first link, I could see a small crack and it got bigger. I guess I could have used duct tape, it might have come out better. Anyway, I think I have them ready to weld again and I have a friend that has welded for me in the past with no issues and he said his son can help me. He'll be there to supervise, so it should be OK.

Is the donor part an anti-sway bar end link?

John,

I may have still some in my shop if you are interested.

Bill

John, you're almost there on the prep. Grind those joining ends almost to a point.You need to be sure the first tack gets to the center of the rod. It's obvious that your "welder" neighbor didn't understand the prep necessary. If you have a piece of aluminum angle, that's a good thing to use to keep the parts in alignment for welding. Clamp each piece in the trough of the angle. Once the first pass is done, then remove the angle and finish the welding just a little proud of the original surface.

Here is my 1st drive. I took it around the block!

Wayne - That is so cool! I'd call that a horseless carriage.

Kevin, First thing my neighbor said to me was, "I'll need to grind these down to a point." So I'm hoping he does a good job.

Looks done to me!

Found that photo. Grigg, 2008 Homecoming. That was a lot of fun!

Those are fun pictures Peggy!

Yes - I am interested. 👍

Not much happening these past few days. Waiting for my neighbor to weld my shock links. Trying to line up some friends to help me lift the cab onto my trailer so I can take it to the body shop to fix a couple things (no painting). I'll try to add brake fluid and bleed the system today (after mowing the lawn). Also, I'm planning to swap out the Rochester carburetor for a Carter YF 3211s, so I'm figuring out how to build and install a choke stove to run the automatic choke. "carbking" pointed me to some "how to" instructions and I'm going to give it a try.

Seems like slow going lately, but - I cleaned the cab firewall a little bit, before taking it to the body shop. Carburetor rebuild kit showed up. And my neighbor did get my rear shock links welded for me.